Best performance mod for $200
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From: SO. CaLi4NiA
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Best performance mod for $200
Whats up guys...I finally got hold of some money and I really feel like buying stuff for my car...I was looking towards the performance side...I already have intake and exhaust...Look at my profile for all the mods...I've searched for quite a while for a respectable mod...the Venom 400 and Kamikaze Headers are probably the most appealing to me at this point...Just throw in your 2 cents about this issue...any help is good...thanks in advance
the stock engine usually can take up to 60 hp additional power w/ everything stock......on my tranny i just installed a tranny cooler just in case....on thing if you are a lead foot, yeah you'll be breaking a lot of stuff......i just use mine occaisionally.....
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Originally Posted by DodgeNeonSRT-4
um...go to driving class and learn stick...200 dollars should be the first few classes
sorry dude but an automatic will never match up with a manual
sorry dude but an automatic will never match up with a manual
" men drive stick "
i know how to drive a stick.....my car was just a hand-me-down from my wife.....anyway i'd definitely agree that a stick is way much better compared to an automatic.....but i have to do w/ what i have.....
after reading the posts after mine, I think mine may have come across as rude. I apologize if this is the case. I was being serious and just trying to say that if you are going to go for serious performance you should probably go with stick. I really wouldn't put money into an automatic transmission because after studying automatic transmissions 1 and 2 and manual transmissions 1, 2, and 3 over the last two years, automatics are just too prone to problems. They are also way more complicated to fix.
Which is why I don't understand cars like the Mercedes 355 AMG. Yes, it shifts like a freaking racecar, but it's still prone to problems and a fuxxxxg bxxxh to fix.
I was trying to make a suggestion in all serious. If you only have an automatic to work with, I would try to tough it out and stick with bone stock, sell off any mods you have for as much as you can get, save your money then trade your AT for a manual.
But if you are stuck with AT, I would stay away from nitrous. Try researching a torque converter...a little more than 200 but definetely worth it, and a key component in letting you upgrade that engine.
Which is why I don't understand cars like the Mercedes 355 AMG. Yes, it shifts like a freaking racecar, but it's still prone to problems and a fuxxxxg bxxxh to fix.
I was trying to make a suggestion in all serious. If you only have an automatic to work with, I would try to tough it out and stick with bone stock, sell off any mods you have for as much as you can get, save your money then trade your AT for a manual.
But if you are stuck with AT, I would stay away from nitrous. Try researching a torque converter...a little more than 200 but definetely worth it, and a key component in letting you upgrade that engine.
yup....i already foung the JMO torque converters......and yah i know a/t's are prone to being a B***h at most times......am just saving for it....and i just use the nitrous whenever i am at the track for bracket racing(i do good cause its an a/t and has consistent times) and kinda suck at auto x'ng......but anyhow i agree to you.....am somewhat in your shoes going through auto tech school and at the same time working in a auto shop.....
Autos are not prone to more problems. Take the GM 4L60-E or 4L65-E, these auto trannies are put in Corvettes and have taken their fair share of abuse...by the way the 4L60-E are put in the Hummer H2 so you know these are heavy duty trannies. Not to And probably the toughest auto around, the OLD SCHOOL Turbo Hydramatic 400 (TH-400), that were installed in 60's and 70's GM muscle cars. Many drag racers use this transmissions (GM muscle cars and some Supras).
Same with the Nissan/Subaru 4EAT auto trannies. On Nasioc.com, there are several 12 sec WRXs that are running mid 12 to low 13 without any tranny problems. Same can't be said about the Suby 5speed.
Although there are tough as nails manual transmissions as well. The tremec(t-56) and the Getrag 6 speed (i think this was in the mkiv Supra and Nssan GTR cars). Also have to mention the Muncie M22 "rock crusher" 4 speed (installed in GM muscle in the 60s and 70s).
I'm not sure how durable our 4 speed autos are...but mine has been completely fine. But then again my car has no speed enhancing boltons.
And Kikoy if you did buy a torque converter and plan on stalling you transmission/engine for better launches i suggest you buy a transmission cooler. Taking a Chevy atricle i read, stalling a transmission about 5 times raised the temp by over 100 degrees. But, auto trannies do need a proper temp to operate properly, too cold: excessive wear can occur...too hot: tranny failure is certain. I suggest installing a trans temp guage and monitor your temps. Good luck.
Same with the Nissan/Subaru 4EAT auto trannies. On Nasioc.com, there are several 12 sec WRXs that are running mid 12 to low 13 without any tranny problems. Same can't be said about the Suby 5speed.
Although there are tough as nails manual transmissions as well. The tremec(t-56) and the Getrag 6 speed (i think this was in the mkiv Supra and Nssan GTR cars). Also have to mention the Muncie M22 "rock crusher" 4 speed (installed in GM muscle in the 60s and 70s).
I'm not sure how durable our 4 speed autos are...but mine has been completely fine. But then again my car has no speed enhancing boltons.
And Kikoy if you did buy a torque converter and plan on stalling you transmission/engine for better launches i suggest you buy a transmission cooler. Taking a Chevy atricle i read, stalling a transmission about 5 times raised the temp by over 100 degrees. But, auto trannies do need a proper temp to operate properly, too cold: excessive wear can occur...too hot: tranny failure is certain. I suggest installing a trans temp guage and monitor your temps. Good luck.
Last edited by Ramones; Aug 6, 2004 at 09:13 PM.
One more note...high stall convertors will not improve shifting. If you want quicker shifting then get a shift kit or a valve body job. Bad thing is, i am not familiar with any shops that do work for our autos.
i already got the tranny cooler(4 pass)...anyway am still saving up for a converter.....and yeah...i used the TH-700R4 tranny on my 2.8/3.1 chevette before......i know its a good tranny....wish i could find some tranny computer upgrade or at least a shift kit, though a torque converter would be good too.....
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From: SO. CaLi4NiA
Rep Power: 0 holy mother...this turned into an AT vs MT thread...i do know how to drive MT but my car was the first new car in the family and in case of an emergency we would be in real trouble because the women in my family wouldn't be able to drive it...comes down to the mods...i will be gettin rid of this car in about 2 years so i just need a lil bit of kick out of it...stock civic = slow...+urethane body kit + 18" rims = SLOW AS HELL...just want my power back and look good too
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Last edited by jiggerachi; Aug 7, 2004 at 02:08 AM.
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Some of the best and most effective mods are regaining lost hp. Changing fluid and adding cleaners will do wonders. Keep the rims and system small. I can feel a big loss in performance even with one person in the car.
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Rep Power: 0 Gearbox is right...keeping your filters (air and fuel), fluids (oil, gear fluid, tranny fluid), injection cleaner, etc all in shape will keep your car performing well. I rather spend the extra dollars on a synthetic oil even if it does yield 1whp, just like an intake...save your money for the TC
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option
1: sparks and wires
2: better filter
3: UR SS pullies + 100 or less
4: find a chip + 200 or less
yeap keep with gearbox and civicskater's suggestion...then agian look at the parts i listed
1: sparks and wires
2: better filter
3: UR SS pullies + 100 or less
4: find a chip + 200 or less
yeap keep with gearbox and civicskater's suggestion...then agian look at the parts i listed
