Rep Power: 374

this is related to this thread
DIY: RVM Pulley (edited by ak: fixed ur link)

Anyway, you cant follow the instructions they give you because the hardest part is step 3, which is getting the damn crank pulley off....And if all you have are regular tools its gonna be a #$%$ to get off....After 2 days and with the right sockets and tools i finally got mine off...(JUST NOW) i was so excited that i had to post it.........I will be back with a FULL DIY (no pics ) when im done.

 
Rep Power: 374

if your wonderin why i dont post the diy now is cause i was too excited to finish and i had asked alot of people how to keep the pulley from moving so i did it my own way and I WILL POST when im done

 
Rep Power: 0

that would be great. do we need a new belt for that crank pulley? let us know what you think of it.

 
Rep Power: 374

ugh this is harder than it looks, im still working on it, yes you need two new shorter belts...The instruction tells you what kind you will need....What im trying to figure out now is how to adjust the drive belts...you have to do this too loosen them and be able to put the new ones on...I cut off the old ones now i need to just adjust to put the new ones on.

 
Rep Power: 0

i want to know what you think of ther difference when driving when you are finished

 
Rep Power: 374

LONG

Im not finished but here it is (i have the wrong belt size)

First of all the power steering belt size is Wrong on the installation guide its too short
-You do not want the K04078 You do want the other belt they recommend K04080. If the place your are getting the belts does not carry gates, the numbers in bold are all you need. Show them to the parts counter


1. Lift up the driver's side of vehicle and secure with a jack
-Your going to want to use a jack at the jack point right behind the tire and jack it up and place a jackstand under the subframe (i found this to be the best spot)



2. Take off the driver's side wheel and take off the wheel well shroud.
-I took of the wheel well shround and just left the shroud covering the pulley hanging



3. Unfasten the crankshaft pulley bolt, but do not take it out yet.
THIS is the Hardest part!! if you have air tools your lucky...If you dont good luck and please be pretty strong

-You want STRONG TOOLS You will not get it off with anything smaller than 1/2 sockets and a long breaker bar. You will need a 19mm 1/2 impact socket (its black) and a 1/2 breakerbar longer the better.

-If you dont have a pulley holder than go out and buy two 3" clamps (strong ones) and clamp them to both sides of the pulley tight so they will hit something and keep the pulley from moving. I did this without putting it into 5th gear (forgot to) but i had an extention pole holding the break in.

-Pull with all your might, this may take a while...it took me 2 days to get it off and with the right tools

-Do not take out the bolt yet, just leave it loose.


4. Loosen drive belts (this is another hard step they NEED more explaining with), to remove AC belt you will need to unbolt driver side lower motor mount and remove..I did not do this i just cut my old belts.

-to loosen the belts first lets do the alternator......Theres a 14mm bolt at the top of the alternator you need to loosen its where the alternator wants to pivot..then you need to loosen the 12mm bolt at the lower part of the alternator...This is where you adjust the tightness of the belt for the alternator for later.

-to loosen the power stering belt you will need to remove the 14mm nut on the right side where the pulley is, its to the right of the pulley...where it looks like it wants to pivot..the reason you have to remove it is so you can fit the belt on...(im not sure if you have to remove the bolt completly, I had to so i could fit my belt on, only to find out it was too short...so you May not have to remove it) I also do not think you have to unbolt the lower motor mount but this may be the reason my belt isn't working...But they do say to install the new belts in reverse order which means to bolt back the motor mount and put it on..Which is how it is now on my car after i cut the belt off. So i see no reason to unbolt the motor mount if you are going to cut the belt off



5. Remove the crank shaft pulley ( be aware that the key in the crank may fall out, just re-install in the crankshaft.(its a little piece looks like a rectangle))
-just remove it as it says this is easy

6. Install the UNDERDRIVE pulley, lubricate the inner bore of the new pulley with anti-seize compound(found at your local automotive store for about $3) (Do not torque on the pulley yet.)

A) Make sure that the crank snout endge has no burrs, if no burrs are present pulley will slip on easily and seat properly (mine did)
B) Do not shove the pulley putting it into crankshaft, damage to both may occur In the rare case the pulley is tight, clean crank snout (as they can get slightly rusty) with emery cloth until pulley slides on as stated.



7.Install the accessory belts in reverse order. Retighten lower driver's side motor mount.
-This is easy if you followed the above on loosening the belts, just do the opposite...
- put the alternator belt on, and pull up on the alternator to tighten slightly then put the lower bolt back in and tighten and use the (pivot nut?) to tighten the belt back....(REFER TO MANUAL ON HOW TIGHT) push with your thumb to check...
-To put the power steering belt on(the one i haven't finished yet) i assume with the proper belt you will be able to put the lower bolt back in the tensioner and use the (pivot nut? i forgot what these are called the nuts you can turn with your thumb) to tighten the belt...and refer to owners manual how tight.

8. Reinstall remaining components
-Torque the crankshaft to 14lbs tq (They say to turn 95 degrees and im not sure what they mean but you can torque it a lil more and follow the directions, i will post what i did tomorow)
-Make sure all bolts are back in and you dont have any left over!
-put shroud back

9. Tighten accessory belts(drive belts) back to factory specification (if you are worried about this take it to honda or an automotive shop and make sure the tightness is correct)


THATS ALL (i think i got everything) this is a difficult install not for the noobs lease: (but with the Correct tools this install is easier)

 
Rep Power: 374

minimal gains, i will post after 5 days when the ecu recalibrates.......I still think with the minimal gains its worth $55

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks dude and i think if for 55 dollars is worth min. gains i mean come on we pay 200+ for CAI which give us 2+hp LOL

 
Rep Power: 374

yeah 55 bucks and how much time spent for a minimal gain??? is it worth it?

 
Rep Power: 374

Yes i think its worth it, if you use this DIY it will save you alot of time....What it felt like it did was make the car feel less restictive throughtout the powerband especially higher rmps...plus i get up to higher speeds faster.
Get one! tell him Havier hhowe@carolina.rr.com...i just want to let him know im bringing him business....Here's the ebay seller dohccivic1250

 
Rep Power: 0

any update on the gains you got with the pulley? Also does anyone know if it will work with the AEM pulleys belts or not. I dont know what belts would fit because the AEM belts are already bigger but then the crank might not fit. Any info would help.

 
Rep Power: 374

well, they might work...you could always tighten the belts if they are loose, its better if they are loose...they will be easier to put on and then tighten

 
Rep Power: 315

you said you would post gains after 5 days...
how is it? did the ECU recailbrate and do you get upt to 4th gear quicker?

how do you think it improved your 0-60 time? pm me with the details.