NEW AEM CAI V2!
It's a pressure wave that is set up. You want to tune the intake to get maximum positive pressure at the intake as it closes. This sounds like the old offy intake for v-8s that had two intake tracts per valve with different harmonics to try and cover a broader rpm range. It didn't work well. The best way is to have the length of the intake vary with rpm. However, this tuning works best between the carb or throttle body and the valve. not sure it will do much on the other side of the throttle body because the throttle body may not transmit the pressure wave to the right valve at the right time.
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[hr]Originally posted by: SMX
It's a pressure wave that is set up. You want to tune the intake to get maximum positive pressure at the intake as it closes. This sounds like the old offy intake for v-8s that had two intake tracts per valve with different harmonics to try and cover a broader rpm range. It didn't work well. The best way is to have the length of the intake vary with rpm. However, this tuning works best between the carb or throttle body and the valve. not sure it will do much on the other side of the throttle body because the throttle body may not transmit the pressure wave to the right valve at the right time.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: SMX
It's a pressure wave that is set up. You want to tune the intake to get maximum positive pressure at the intake as it closes. This sounds like the old offy intake for v-8s that had two intake tracts per valve with different harmonics to try and cover a broader rpm range. It didn't work well. The best way is to have the length of the intake vary with rpm. However, this tuning works best between the carb or throttle body and the valve. not sure it will do much on the other side of the throttle body because the throttle body may not transmit the pressure wave to the right valve at the right time.[hr]
so tell me in a easier way for me to understand
Erichyung, think of it as a speaker attached to one end of a tube. As the speaker moves, it creates positive and negative pressure at the other end of the tube. Positive pressure = denser air (supercharged), negative pressure = less dense air (undercharged). Same with your intake only the air is also moving through the tube as the pressure waves travel back and forth.
You want the valve to close just after the pressure wave hits the valve giving you the densest air possible in your cylinder. It's basically free supercharging. Those bulbous exhaust pipes on 2-stroke bikes do the same thing, except they use exhaust gas to supercharge the port as it closes, packing more charge in the cylinder. The problem is, the pressure waves change with rpm. Therefore, you either tune your intake to operate within the rpm band that maximizes the supercharging effect, or vary intake lengths with rpm so you can broaden your powerband.
Yow, too many words.
Hope that helps
You want the valve to close just after the pressure wave hits the valve giving you the densest air possible in your cylinder. It's basically free supercharging. Those bulbous exhaust pipes on 2-stroke bikes do the same thing, except they use exhaust gas to supercharge the port as it closes, packing more charge in the cylinder. The problem is, the pressure waves change with rpm. Therefore, you either tune your intake to operate within the rpm band that maximizes the supercharging effect, or vary intake lengths with rpm so you can broaden your powerband.
Yow, too many words.
Hope that helps
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I understand what your saying, but how is the pressure wave actually created? Aren't you getting constant pressure from the intake? Secondly, won't the pressure waves get messed up inside the throttle body? If the throttle body isn't open all the way and the waves bounce back, then won't you just lose pressure? And, even if the body was open all the way, don't you get inverse waves that bounce back after it hits the inner side of the throttle body? Doesn't make sense...
You're correct, the waves bounce to and from the throttle body (or carb plenum for older cars). The trick is to time it so that the pressure wave hits the valve as the valve closes.
The waves are formed by air flow starting and stopping as valves open and close. The air stream is hauling a$$ to the valve, but when the valve closes, the air that didn't get in has no place to go. This forms an area of high pressure behind the closed valve that propogates as a pressure wave back toward the throttle body. It hits the plenum and reverses directions. The trick is proper tuning of this wave.
The waves are formed by air flow starting and stopping as valves open and close. The air stream is hauling a$$ to the valve, but when the valve closes, the air that didn't get in has no place to go. This forms an area of high pressure behind the closed valve that propogates as a pressure wave back toward the throttle body. It hits the plenum and reverses directions. The trick is proper tuning of this wave.
I read an article about the SUPERCARS using this trick. At high speeds the waves actually "supercharge"/compress the air into the cylingers. They time it out to make it so they waves "hit" at just the right time and acts like a turbo/super charger for non turbo'd engines.
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[hr]Originally posted by: 2k2civicballer
Too bad its only for Manual Trannies...
[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: 2k2civicballer
Too bad its only for Manual Trannies...
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[hr]Originally posted by: HondaGuru
Its still just a filter on a stick. BFD.
waste of money IMO.
"The AEM V2 even outperforms the original AEM Cold Air!"
REALLY? you mean that AEM is saying their new, more expensive intake is better then the old one? Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: HondaGuru
Its still just a filter on a stick. BFD.
waste of money IMO.
"The AEM V2 even outperforms the original AEM Cold Air!"
REALLY? you mean that AEM is saying their new, more expensive intake is better then the old one? Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.[hr]
Aye, I agree with the Guru on this. It's only a 6hp gain and a 6 '/# increase. Not really worth the $250. Unless you've got a larger throttle body on there, your intake's not going to suck much more air. The stock intake/airboxes that are on there are already located a good distance away from the engine, aren't located near your radiator, and don't suck in water. When you install the AEM/Injen/whatever CAI's, the intake gets relocated below the engine, right by the radiator. It's not exactly the best place to suck in "cold" air.
Honda did a really good job with optimizing the 7th gen. There is almost no need to do anything to the LX/EX engines, at least nothing cheap. If you're going to do something to your car, better off sending it in for a port/polish, rebore, etc. Better bang for your buck. At this point, your Civ just looks pretty with the intake, and you have to get a breather tube unless you live in AZ. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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[hr]Originally posted by: vtec99
how about the by-pass valve[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: vtec99
how about the by-pass valve[hr]
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I found a 96-00 Ex MT V2 AEM CAI for 259; which is about the same MSRP of the original. I also saw the "reported" numbers of gains on a 96-00 Dx...a respectable, more so outrageous, +16hp +14lbs (flywheel or wheels? who knows)
Also, every idiot in the world knows that the cheapest way to get power is through an intake. Cost/Power ratio hands down goes to n2o
Also, every idiot in the world knows that the cheapest way to get power is through an intake. Cost/Power ratio hands down goes to n2o
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The release date is this week actually. I can't remember which day. So they might actually be available now. But even with some parts after they've been released it takes suppliers a couple of weeks to get the parts in. But you can already preorder/order it from several sites. Here is a group buy that you can get it from for $236 shipped.
AEM CAI V2 Group Buy
AEM CAI V2 Group Buy
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I know it doesn't come with a bypass valve but I just want to know how careful I should be? Is it safe to drive with it when it rains? I mean I want to know under what conditions its ok to drive with it and what conditions its not?
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It will literally almost be in the exact same spot as the regular AEM CAI. You should treat it just like you would treat the AEM CAI w/o a bypass valve: i.e. don't go in any deep puddles so that the air filter does not get completely submerged. Hope this helps [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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That helps but can you be a little bit more specific? I've never had a CAI so I don't know that much. Can I still drive when it rains or rains heavy? Should I be worried if I drive though small puddles that just splash up into the enigine bay? Sorry if these are retarded q's but I really want to know before I buy.




