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so i got a 2002 civic ex with a D17a2 motor in it and its just now passed 127k miles. i am going to be replacing the flywheel with a fidanza 7lb flywheel and exedy clutch kit, also its leaking oils somewhere on the timing belt side, so me and my friend who is a mechanic are going to pull the motor so it would be easyer to work on both sides. so since the engine is going to be pulled out and we are working on it i was wondering if i was maybe missing anything or might be a good idea to change while i have it out, so here is a list of new parts i got to replace:

*Fidanza 7lb flywheel
*exedy complete clutch kit
*new water pump
*new timing belt
*new cam seal
*new tensioner
*new A/C belt
*new power steering belt
*new valve cover gasket
*spark plug seals
*new spark plugs (havent bought yet checking out best brand to get any suggestions?)
*timing cover seal


am i missing anything?

by the way the cam seal it says front is there a back one as well?

 
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Check you back cam plug/seal, you're practically there. also crank seal is the oil pump. Timing tensioner components like the spring aren't always in the kits, so double check those before you tear it all down etc.

 
Rep Power: 519

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Thoughts:

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I personally wouldn't pull the engine to do all this work, but it's your call.

You're going to an awful lot of trouble and effort to install "thrifty" DangerZone parts. I wouldn't.

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Throw away the Duralast tensioner.....It will be far cheaper to throw it away now than to let it strand you and trash the engine when it lets go prematurely.

If you think you really must have a tensioner, get factory parts. It will be a kit, complete with spring. And it will normally last more than 200k miles.
04145-PLC-315, $70 from Majestic or $100 MSRP.

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OEM water pump.
And Honda coolant.

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Make sure those seals are double lip (hopefully they are reboxed OEM). If they are single lip, throw them away now too.


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If you are going to all this trouble to pull the engine out, replace the head gasket if it is original. I'd use OEM for that too.

(Or you could go ahead and use that Duralast tensioner, and then the head gasket will get replaced when you replace all the valves that get bent when the tensioner fails prematurely and throws the timing belt.)

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Factory belts usually will last an easy 100k.
How long do you think those Duralast belts will last? Is that any sort of value?


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If ANY of your "thrifty" timing components fail, chances are good that you will be buying a set of valves and pulling the head.

You can thank me later.

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DangerZone: Turning your Honda into a Daewoo, one part at a time.

 
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ezone are you saying that duralast is a crappy brand?

 
Rep Power: 519

What do you think?

 
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Well I have used there serpentine belts and breaks and most of my replacement parts I had to replace I used them, it's just that I never had my cars long enough to see something go wrong with any of them, plus they offer life time warranty. But there was one time on my dads ranger we changed his water pump and about 100 miles later the pump cracked and **** leaked all coolent we swapped it out, but I never herd of anyone having that kind of a water pump issue, anyway I hope it all is going to be all in good working condition for the next 100k miles, after that it can all go to hell lol

 
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Ok, so what do you think their warranty will cover when their tensioner fails, lets the timing belt jump time, and it bends all the valves?

That's a whole lot of damage risk depending on a single janky counterfeit bearing made in China.






/Devils' advocate

 
Rep Power: 512

accessory belts, sure, I'll use duralast. Hell, the duralast alternator is lasting me so far *knock on wood*

engine seals, important engine gaskets (i.e. head gasket), timing belt, et cetera, however, I will use nothing but Honda OEM.

ezone, what's included in the parts kit (04145-PLC-315)? Also, what category is it listed under on Majestic? I can't find it to save my life. This is really for my own curiosity.

 
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http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT
Linted under CAMSHAFT - TIMING BELT
#14: tensioner, grommet, spring.

HTH

 
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f***, I'm blind..

 
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@ 40k after I replaced the timing belt on my 04. the duralst tensioner failed. The tensioner spring chewed right through the tensioner. No damage to the head, belt didn't slip, but it made a hell of a rattle

 
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so should i just go ahead and get a different timing belt and different water pump brand is that what you guys are sasying?

and what brand are there i get my stuff at autozone and i bought the stuff that they recommended so thats how i ended up with all these parts

 
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by looking at that website everything is through the roof. (price wise) im looking to make the car last just a few more years not another 10, i have possible engine swap plans or building the engine, thats when ill be going back into the engine and replacing this stuff again anyway

 
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I can't afford to use cheap parts.

 
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Check with Napa. You'll still have to get the spring through honda. Napa shows it, but it isn't in their kits. Raise some hell because the spring is shown in the picture, but it isn't in the kit and you should get a discount. I'm not sayin but I'm sayin.
Keep you felpro stuff, It'll be just fine

 
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You talking about the tensioner spring?

 
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127k and "freshening up"? Unless you have a verified reason such as low compression, bearing noise etc, IMO leave it alone except for the timing belt and tensioner, maybe the head gasket. Mine has close to 200k and runs perfect. I put a head gasket, timing belt, water pump etc. on it at somewhere around 160k IIRC, the cylinders had ZERO wear. Telling ya man, to each his own, but start wrenching and you will have probs. This from an experienced mechanic, you see ezone's take too. It is a Civic, it is not and 5 grand later it still won't be a hot rod.

 
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I get it, just I have noise from on of the hearing at the clutch, so I figured to just do a bit of everything and maybe modify a thing or two. Also leaking oil at the timing belt side so i wAnt to do a bit of work there, but mainly it's a car that will get me from point a to point b, and to the track and beat it a bit then back home

 
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here is an update from last night

all those parts fit good and drives nice.

took literaly all night to do and a few cases of beer but it got done

 
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This thread has me totally confused. You pulled working OEM parts to put in aftermarket Duralast parts that probably aren't even as good as your original (even with 127k miles). I would NEVER use anything but the OEM tensioner. Reason being is that the OEM tensioner has a hard steel grommet that holds the retaining spring in place that a lot of aftermarket tensioners don't. I've seen quite a few belts come lose because the spring works it's way through the soft steel of the tensioner. I pulled my OEM tensioner at 100k miles because I was mid head gasket job and it was like brand new.

I just don't understand why spend this money putting parts in the car that aren't even as good as the ones you just took out?

To each their own I guess... this just seems a waste to me. Just hope that tensioner holds on... there is a reason people here recommend OEM.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...r-failure.html

^ Check that link. It's exactly what I'm talking about and I'm sure that's an aftermarket tensioner.

 
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That is exactly how mine failed last summer. 40k miles duralast tensioner. AZ did give me a credit.

 
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Mmhmmmmm... Aftermarket tensioners save money on steel quality. Which causes that problem... Seriously not worth the money saved. Anything that takes 3-4 hours for me to dig out in my driveway is not worth cheaping out on...

 
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Poor kid will never comprehend why I said to just throw it away right now before it trashes an engine.

Remove an original tensioner that will reliably go to somewhere between 200,000 and a quarter million miles, and replace it with inferior thrifty parts that might go 40k. AND could ruin the engine when it lets go.


Value shoppers will never figure out the cost of that cheap price.
(Alternate title: I see a future bean counter at a car dealership here.)



Let us all wait for the next thread from this OP?

 
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Well, you can only hope for the best honestly. I hope it works out but I'd never chance it, as I said above

 
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well here is what we saw when we pulled it, the crank seal was leaking, the cam seal was ok, and the so called 250k tensioner was starting to crap out. the bearings where very noisy, and the belt looked fine, the water pump was leaking and was all covered antifreeze residue. so half the parts had to go anyway, so i might as well replace the other half too, and i am not planing on sepnding 2 grand on overpriced OEM parts when the car isnt worth it and when the cheaper parts are going to do the same job. If you guys think its wise to put 2 grand in OEM parts into a car that is worth 4k then there is something wrong with you. i get it if i was just gonna keep the car forever or the engine forever but im not and its gonna be either a engine swap or turbo in a a year or two and ill be doing more serveces to the car then and i can replace the parts again.

 
Rep Power: 314

I don't see 2000 dollars in OEM parts here. Even here in Canada all those parts only come out to ~ 600 dollars..?

Just the water pump and tensioner.. maaaybe timing belt could have been OEM.. just sayin'. To save yourself trouble. Dont exaggerate though, tossing 2000 dollars at us is a little rich. In the US all those parts even OEM can be had for 500 dollars, less from majestic or south bay honda. I'm not really including the clutch here, as those don't matter if they are OEM or not.

Even with the clutch and flywheel you'd be lucky to break the 700 dollar mark.

 
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i didnt say i spent 2 grand. what i DID say is i dont wannna spend 2 grand

 
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I know you posted this a week ago, and I'm not exactly sure what to make of that sentence. Is your tranny making some noise? Is it a bearing noise, like a whirr? Kinda like putting a playing card in your bicycle wheel spokes like some of us did when we were kids?

If so, does it make the noise with the clutch disengaged (pedal down) or engaged (pedal up)? I've read more than once where someone thought it was a bad throw-out bearing, but it turned out to be the input-shaft bearing, a common failure in Honda manual trannys.

Throw-out bearing = makes noise with the clutch disengaged (pedal down).
Transmission bearing = makes noise with the clutch engaged (pedal up).

 
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That is technically backwards.





The rest of the info is right though.

/nit pick

 
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Ahh yeah....we'll blame that on lack of sleep.