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Does anybody have any knowledge about things like jet chips, vengom modulators, those stupid "super charge your engine," tubonetic bolt-on things? Specifically the Venom and Jet Modulators. I would love to spend the 3K for a turbo kit, but I just don't have the funds for that. I love my manual 2001 EX coupe, and I love speed...so joining the two would be ideal. I don't necessarily need to win any sort of speed competition, but I would like to have a bit more umph, if you know what I mean?? I love my Honda.. i had a 1990 Prelude SI..that thing ****ing moved with no mods at all. I need something now, just a bit better than that in my mostly stock VIC! Anyone with knowledge, or ideas, or thoughts, let me know. I know the civic isn't the fastest engine in the world, but every little bit helps. Right now I have a K&N SRI, which sounds nice, but I don't thing gives me a whole lot, and a $30 air intake modulator that does next to nothing. At least I don't think it does. My first post y'all, try to take it easy on me.

 
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Search button will give you all help you need.
Umph = $

 
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None of those electronic foolers do anything.
Boost, N2O or swap. Pick your poison.

 
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yup, only way to get power out of our vic's is engine swap, NOS or turbo, bolt on's or anything dont do ****

 
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I figured as much...but I thought I would ask. Thanks for the help. Gonna have to save my money for the turbo then. Does anybody know where you can get a turbo kit for under 3 Grand????

 
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used in the Classifieds

 
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lol^^. search bro, theres a guy one here selling a full kit ready to rock and roll for 1600. Search jbrown59 , good guy.

 
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just read your thread and i want to tell you to take out the intake modulator(resistor). if it what i think it is it not good to leav ein the car. if its a resistor that goes on the IAT sensor in the intake all it WAS doing is tricking the computer into thinking that there is colder air comming in the car that there actually is. after time the ecu will learn that the resistor is there and all youll be dong is wasting gas. the iat sensor helps control timming and fuel by detecting intake temps the colder the air the more fuel and timming it will add. well when the signal doesnt change it ends up send the comp unit open loop operation which means it gives a consistant amount of fuel and timming. you want fluxuation in the fuel and ignition maps to get teh best performance. i hope this makes sense let me know if it doesnt and ill try to explain a little better

 
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/\/\ What he said!

If you aren't looking to spend "big" money, I highly suggest Nos($500+), for a little more, turbo($1,500+ used), then if you truly wish to spend money, swap($5,000-$10,000).