Chowmane

Ok - Does it matter if it's the 1st O2 Sensor by the Header or the 2nd O2 Sensor by that Cat.

I tapped mine into the 2nd O2 Sensor by the cat but when I turn the ignition on the A/F reads Rich - doesn't move at all. I check all the wires - everything is hooked up right - I splice/tap into the O2 Sensor and made sure it had good contact.

So why is it ready Rich and not bouncing back and forth like it should. I just have the car at idle - haven't drove it yet - want to make sure everything is hooked up correctly.

Here's a DIY I found in the forum and it clearly says to tap into the black wire but on the 1st O2 Sensor - does it Matter?????


Open the hood. Look straight down the exhaust manifold. There is a plug with a bunch of wires going to it just under the header. Thats your O2 sensor. Trace the wires back to the grey connector plug near the engine block (over on the right side, under the radiator hose). Slide back the wire shroud so you can see the wires (4 of them). Put a tap splice on the BLACK wire between the O2 sensor and the connector.

Run the wire inside the car. I recommend you not run the wire attached to the gauge through into the engine bay. It won't reach and it'll mean you'll have to splice the wires together in the engine bay. You'll be better off joining them inside the car so you minimize the exposed wire. Attach the wire you spliced into the O2 sensor to the purple wire on the back of the gauge. You need to find 12V and Ground. The Yellow/Green stripe wire that goes to the Cig lighter is 12 V, there is a screw behind the lower dash panel (w/ the lighter in it) that is a ground post, or you can run a ground wire in from the engine block (I did this). Hook up power and ground to their respective wires and thats it.
The gauge will oscillate back and forth between rich and lean. Don't expect it to stay in one place. It will completely disappear if you're moving and you take your foot off the gas (good old ULEV in action), and don't be surprised if it favors the lean side rather than rich (ULEV again). It should go rich if you floor it.

Chowmane

Ok - The Air/Fuel Gauge is working now - it fluctuates back and forth while driving and goes to rich at full throttle.

Actually it never goes to rich - It gets to the bar/led just before rich - Is that bad.

At the rich area all the led are green - It stops just before the Rich idicator when I have the throttle at full WOT.

Does this mean my car is not getting enough fuel or is the A/F just not that accurate in reading - either way it seems to be going it's job.

I'd tried tapping into the 1st O2 and then the 2nd O2 - both had the same results. I was thinking of tapping into the ECU but not sure which wire (I think it's the white one) but I have an Automatic and I think the Automatic ECU is different.

Is it worth trying that - or just leave everything alone.

Thanks,
Mike

XSRCivic

iTrader: (19)

First off, this A/F gauge will not read correctly due to the fact that our cars o2 sensors are narrowband. It is rumored that the gauge will only read true at wide open throttle but I can tell you this is false. The ONLY proper way to read the actual A/F ratio is by using a WIDEBAND o2 Sensor with the proper Wideband gauge. I did the same as you, I hooked up the A/F gauge and tapped the stock o2 sensor wire. It read rich all the time. When it actually read Stoich, it was actually reading an A/F of 21.0

This guage will NOT be accurate at all, do not use it to tune dont rely on it to give you an accurate reading because it WILL NOT. Get a wideband if you want a true reading of your A/F.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

There is one way to read a/f from our narrowband by getting a 'modified' full throttle gauge and hooking it up. But even then you risk damaging the sensor and still only get full throttle readings. Conclusion, get a separate wideband sensor and gauge. The cheap garbage ones don't work.

Chowmane

Appreciate the advise - will do - So the fact that it does not read Rich at WOT is nothing to be alarm about - At Wot it read the end point of Stoich just before Rich.

What the heck is Stoich anyways.

Either way - Looks like I better get a Wide Band if I really want a good reading - sound like I'm just gonna forget the A/F altogether cuz a all I have are AEM Pulleys, Greddy Evo2 exhaust and a Injen Air intake system.

Thanks,
Mike

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

just think of the gauge as a light show, nothing more. Doesn't tell you a thing about how the car runs.