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i recently have decided i want to go fast. so i got a intake and APEXi N1 exhaust system and i beat a v6 cougar that i think i could not beat before, so i am happy with the little gain, but i want more. i am now selling my 300 pounds of audio equipment(2 15's, 2 30 pound amps, 7 cube box). one reason is my stock electrical can't handle it so i will have a budget of around 1500 for some performance mods. here is what i come up with. i kinda have a hook up at a shop so i can get some things cheap. here it is:

Zex wet kit,gonna run 75 shot.---$500
Zex bottle warmer---------------$130
Zex spark plugs------------------$25
Exedy street clutch--------------$260
Fidanza lightweight flywheel------$230 -need suggestions on weight to use
AEM cam gears------------------$130
AEM pulleys----------------------$80
OBX racing header---------------$100
CF autometer nitrous pres. guage-$80
CF autometer air/fuel guage------$80
2 gauge cluster pod--------------$40

TOTAL- $1655 , what would a normal install run on this stuff? i can probably use the shops lift at night and get a friend to help on some stuff such as nitrous kit, guages, etc. i am worried about the gears, pulleys, clutch, flywheel install, how much normally for the install on just this stuff?

also for fuel issues, will the gauge be all i really need to get it at a safe level, i mean i can just run it and see what it is like and if it is lean i can add a bigger fuel jet. other than nitrous use, i think the ecu can account for the fuel for i/h/e, flywheel, gears, and pulleys.

ALso if anybody has any suggestions, let me know

Thanks
Chris

 
Rep Power: 348

$1655 half way to turbo

 
Rep Power: 812

You're off to a good start. The cam gear is prolly gonna be good for nitrous, but the install is gonna cost as much as a timing belt replacement. Might as well throw on a new belt, water pump, and crank pulley since you're doing everything else.

 
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I got quoted $100 for aem pullies, $250 for cam gear (and the other timing junk free), header is diy, the gauges and nitrous is gonna cost more.

 
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The things i will probably do myself are the guages, nitrous system, spark plugs, and header.

the things i probably need installed are the clutch/flywheel and the cam gear and pulleys.

Why would i need waterpump, belt? my car only has 20,000 miles. the crank pulley i don't know? i heard dh racing's pulley and others really messed up cars.

also, i know the nitrous is going to help alot but what kind of gains w/o spraying?

For the turbo post, i thought about it but it is nothing but trouble,ploblems, and maintanence. i can be just as fast spraying when i want to race. plus nitrous fill will probably cheaper than turbo maintanence and oil changes every 2000 miles

 
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Since everything is already apart, at least throw on a new timing belt. Waterpump and pulley you won't need that soon. Be careful spraying too often.

 
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how much is a timing belt?

 
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cam gears and pulleys really don't do much ... =\

 
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i think the cam gear will help me with the nitrous so i can tune it. pulleys look good for $80

 
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What's the scoop on the AEM pulleys?? I can get the set for $85 plus some shipping, but are they worth it?? I did read you don't have to remove the balancer on the crank pulley. Just curious if it is worth it.

 
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Yes they're worth it. AEM pulleys only replace the alternator and power steering not crank pulley. Timing belt is cheap, maybe $10-20, it's just a belt.

 
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you can get a used turbo kit for around 2000

 
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My opinion as well

 
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Some of us don't want all the problems with turbo.

 
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yeah turbo is not worth it to me. they are to many problems, i have friends with turbos, lets just say i don't want my car in the shop all the time. i know it is constant boost, but who races constantly, you only really race form red lights up to around 100, in that way, nitrous is just as good

 
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then think $2000 for the used kit, then add on a fuel system, guages, tuning, and misc. pieces you need and it will sonn turn to $4000

 
Rep Power: 812

just be careful with nitrous and build the engine if you can. At least get the plugs which I see you have and maybe use different gas. I know at least two people with turbo and constant problems. The fmu goes out, some hose breaks, something else stops working. You'll never be able to drive the car. And by the time you're done getting a tuning computer and dyno done, it's gonna be over 4k. Then you need money stashed when something goes wrong. Even the best members here are having problems and they actually know everything already. After you're done with that, you could always port and polish the head (mild not agressive).

Some things you should know. The regular a/f gauges are useless and can actually screw with your 02 sensor. I would not install that unless you're going for a wideband for $200. Also you're gonna need some sort of fuel management. The vafcII is really perfect for what you're doing and can be tuned on the dyno relatively easily along with the cam gear.

 
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isn't the vafc for vtec, i have a lx. would it be necessary, The nitrous kit adds it's own fuel with the wet kit and i think the ecu could cover the i/h/e etc.. But when i spray, will the ecu try to add more fuel for the nitrous even when the wet kit adds its own? but if i tune the vafc just for the i/h/e will it gain anything?

 
Rep Power: 812

Yes you will gain even tuning the boltons, at least 5-10whp for a manual. For the lx, get the SAFCII instead. The ecu will try and adjust, but it doesn't do a good job at all and it's very minimal.

 
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so i will get an additional 5-10 whp on top of what it would have w/0 tuning, so if i got my i/h/e dynoed at 110 then tuned i would get 115-120? would it make even a bigger difference in the nitrous, how would i tune for nitrous, it seem like it would be tuned for the car n/a then nitrous would not be tuned

 
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Correct. I'm not sure how they tune for nitrous. I guess they would just do an n/a tune and you said the nitrous adds fuel automatically so it should be fine. Since you're not driving with the nos all the time, tune it n/a.

 
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everything looks good to me but for a header imo kamikaze would be great.

 
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oh i forgot you should also get new plugs and for any questions about nitrous ask thiscrackertam. He uses a 75 shot and you can find him in the fi forums

 
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Food for thought. I have messed with the cam gear on the dyno. It is a complete waste of money if you are working in the stock rev range. honda does a good job designing things already. Forget the pulleys and cam gear. get an 8-10 pound flywheel and good clutch. the install on the clutch is gonna run at least $500 but probably not too much more. The motor will be fine for a 75 shot but keep the revs up when spraying. Stock manifolds will puddle if you spray on the bottom end. If you get an safc and put the car on the dyno you will see that stock civics run a smidge rich up top so you will be taking out 4%ish up top which you will barely feel anyway. 3 runs should be all you need to adjust accordingly. Dont worry about running lean with the nitrous zex makes those kits to run a lil rich also. Its a safety thing. sorry about the long post hope it helps

 
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The flywheel i am getting is 7-9 pounds i forgot, it is a fidanza and the exedy cluth is rated to 250hp. what kind of difference at the wheels will this flywheel make? i think i might be able to get the install cheaper. maybe free, shop will probably let me and a friend who works there stay at night and work on it. i guess the money i would spend on the pulleys and cam gear will go to a safc now.

How about a crank pulley, i remember dh racing had one but caused problems. is there any new ones out that give decent gains? i don't want to underdrive stuff too much as my alternator will be working hard pushing 1500 watts

 
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ALso is $499 a good deal on a brand new zex wet kit? this is what my shop will get me it for

 
Rep Power: 812

Stay far away from any crank pulley replacement. If anything, I would throw a new stock one on there. They only last around 60k miles before the rubber damper shreds and causes vibration. Now that I think about it, the cam gear really wouldn't do much with that setup, especially if tuned n/a (no nos). Pullies are still worth getting imo if you can get them cheap. Again, if you decide to skip the cam gear, there's gonna be no need to replace anything else like timing belt.

 
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maybe the pullies wouldnt be a bad thing, but i have yet to see anyone that I know have any positive gains, gearbox. I would rather use that money for a bottle heater or something like that. If its that important you could always strip off the ps belt hehe i have no ps hoses pump or anything. Id like to put a real manual rack in. I got used to it in a few days, kinda a hacked way to get hp and shed weight but i only bought this car to mod and beat on, i have others so drivabilty is not an issue. If you do get a useless camgear, do as others suggested, replace everything you can, its that much longer before you have to do it again.