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I recently swapped my d16y7 engine from my dx for a d16y7 engine w/ y8 head (mini-me swap) and just started her today. Now, it idles fine, but when i give it a little gas to around 2000 rpm's the engine will begin fluctuating in rev's. I have a feeling its a sensor of some sort, but which one? Help Pleaaase.

 
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See if you got the wires swapped between the TPS and the MAP.

 
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I forgot to mention that it will not start cold without inducing it with a little gas. Once it warms up it will idle and start. Timing is spot on.

 
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Alright so far i'm having a convo with myself, but i want to keep the viewers updated on what ive tested. i've tested the tps and map sensors and they read perfectly fine. However when i test the voltage for the iacv it only reads 10v whereas it needs 12v, when i supply the valve with the sufficient voltage it clicks like it should and operates fine, so the valve itself is working. Obviously there is a shortage from the ecu but i dont know why, any insight?

 
Rep Power: 518

Looks fine with a voltmeter, sure. But if you got the connectors swapped, the computer goes nuts.

Now you're getting somewhere.
Ok, the yellow/black wire is the one that is supposed to have 12v+.
Time to check everything else on that same circuit to see where the low voltage might be caused.
This same wire goes to the 4 injectors and comes from the PGMFI main relay.
So check if the injectors are also suffering from low voltage, the same as your IAC valve.
Then see if it is low on the yel/blk wire out of the main relay, and if it is low on the wht/blk at the main relay, then check at fuse 44 in the underhood fusebox.

The yel/blk wire goes through the large bulk harness connector at the drivers strut tower. Could have bad connection inside there, especially if the harness was exposed to rain or weather.

There is a splice block under the dash near the blower housing too.

 
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I don't see a fuse 44 in the box. And what splice box are you talking about?? Could you perhaps be talking about the balance resistor?

 
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anybody here know a spare parts dealer of honda civic in the phillipines..please help coz im looking for original/brand new panel guage and fusebox for honda civic 2007 phillipine model..thanks..

 
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I'm just wild guessing and using wiring diagrams for a 98 car.
(All 96-98 except D16B5)

Diagram says Fuse 44, underhood fusebox, FI E/M, 15 Amp.
Looks like it is on a corner.

It is a bulk connector (multiple wire connector) where several wires may meet and be internally connected together, as opposed to having a bunch of wires all crimped together inside a harness somewhere....
May have several different groups of wires housed in the same connector too.

The one in question is labeled as brown, 20 cavity, and attached to the PCM harness under the dash, just between the kick panel and the firewall. 4 different groups of wires.
Don't worry about this UNLESS pointed testing leads to this area.
If there is low voltage found at the main relay, there is NO reason to be looking for a splice pack problem.

No such animal. Try again?
There is no "ballast resistor" (as in ignition coil resistor on an old Mopar).
Blower resistor? No.

HTH

 
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so i found the fuse, it seemed a little bit corroded on the connection points so i swapped it with one that i have, however, no change. Just went to the local junkyard for a new ecu and iacv valve, same results.

 
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You went from using some logic and using a voltmeter here.....


to firing the parts cannon?

For reference, here is a handy pic of a parts cannon:



You were doing so good, now this.

 
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It's not the iacv valve itself, its not the fuse and now i know (swapped my ecu for cheap) its not the ecu, and yet it still will not start cold and erratically revs at 1600-1800 rpms. There is a shortage but where?

 
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Solved the issue and she fired immediately. I somehow mixed the ground wire and the power wire lol, Was sending all the power to the ground