Sony Xplod Settings
12-14-2012
#1
Registered!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 
Sony Xplod Settings
Hi i have a newly installed sony xplod cdx-ggt550ui for my 2000 civic lx.
I needed help figuring out the settings for the best and highest qualitty sound.
if someone could explain and tell me what to set them at...would be extremely helpful.
I needed help figuring out the settings for the best and highest qualitty sound.
if someone could explain and tell me what to set them at...would be extremely helpful.
12-14-2012
#2
12-14-2012
#5
Registered!!
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: Sony Xplod Settings
As stated, it's all personal preference, what sounds good to me may not to you.
Still, we could offer up some advice. Are you running factory speakers or aftermarket? Running a sub and any amps?
I myself, would be sure to use the built-in HPF for the full-range speakers, OEM or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, they'll likely produce muddy distorted bass. Granted, if you haven't a sub to pick up the lower end, you may prefer to have muddy bass vs a clean, yet weak low end response. Sadly, both the front and rear speaker filters are set the same, not independently. Not sure if you're running 6x9s in the rear and 6.5 up front or what, but if the speakers are different sizes, the larger will likely be able to play lower without distorting, but if you don't set the filter at a level that keeps the smaller speaker clean, you'll get that unwanted noise. 80Hz is a common frequency people use for the HPF, not too many factory or unamped aftermarket speakers do too well below that. I'd try using the crossover roll off slope of 2 or 3, which would be 12db and 18dB slopes.
I'd also play with the time correction/listening position setting. While you can't fine tune it, setting it for the front center should help with imaging and reduce some of the cancellation between speakers. You can even try using the drivers position setting and see if it sounds better still.
The dynamic loudness is recommended to be left off (it's likely to add noise to your music), but you might actually like it.
DM advance only works for compressed music stored on a USB device, but you can try it and see if you like it. Again, I try not to add any unwanted noise from using boosters such as that, but...
RBE will apply a LPF to your rear speakers (to use them as sub substitutes), given they are not subs and can never replace subs, I personally don't like this feature, but once more, it's your call.
For the EQ, unless you know what you're doing, you can make a decent sounding system sound bad, so be very cautious with it. I primarily use mine to weaken/cut the signal as boosting only adds distortion. For instance, I've had speakers that were very efficient around 3K-5K and due to this, they induced a very harsh hissing S, cutting this range by 3dB (with my system) really cleaned up the sound and virtually removed all of the hissing from most tracks that suffered from it. At the same time, I'll admit, I'm a bit of a bass head, so I boosted 60Hz 2dB. I personally can't detect any muddiness in the sub, but those with more acute hearing might.
If you do have a sub, I'd try setting the HPF on your full-range to 100Hz and the sub to 80Hz. Or go with 80Hz for the Full-range and 60Hz for the sub. It's recommended to have one octave of separation in the filters to reduce the cancellation or spike that could occur. Again, it's up to you, your ears are the ones that will have to deal with it every time you drive the car, not ours.
Edited for some spelling errors and improper wording.
Still, we could offer up some advice. Are you running factory speakers or aftermarket? Running a sub and any amps?
I myself, would be sure to use the built-in HPF for the full-range speakers, OEM or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, they'll likely produce muddy distorted bass. Granted, if you haven't a sub to pick up the lower end, you may prefer to have muddy bass vs a clean, yet weak low end response. Sadly, both the front and rear speaker filters are set the same, not independently. Not sure if you're running 6x9s in the rear and 6.5 up front or what, but if the speakers are different sizes, the larger will likely be able to play lower without distorting, but if you don't set the filter at a level that keeps the smaller speaker clean, you'll get that unwanted noise. 80Hz is a common frequency people use for the HPF, not too many factory or unamped aftermarket speakers do too well below that. I'd try using the crossover roll off slope of 2 or 3, which would be 12db and 18dB slopes.
I'd also play with the time correction/listening position setting. While you can't fine tune it, setting it for the front center should help with imaging and reduce some of the cancellation between speakers. You can even try using the drivers position setting and see if it sounds better still.
The dynamic loudness is recommended to be left off (it's likely to add noise to your music), but you might actually like it.
DM advance only works for compressed music stored on a USB device, but you can try it and see if you like it. Again, I try not to add any unwanted noise from using boosters such as that, but...
RBE will apply a LPF to your rear speakers (to use them as sub substitutes), given they are not subs and can never replace subs, I personally don't like this feature, but once more, it's your call.
For the EQ, unless you know what you're doing, you can make a decent sounding system sound bad, so be very cautious with it. I primarily use mine to weaken/cut the signal as boosting only adds distortion. For instance, I've had speakers that were very efficient around 3K-5K and due to this, they induced a very harsh hissing S, cutting this range by 3dB (with my system) really cleaned up the sound and virtually removed all of the hissing from most tracks that suffered from it. At the same time, I'll admit, I'm a bit of a bass head, so I boosted 60Hz 2dB. I personally can't detect any muddiness in the sub, but those with more acute hearing might.
If you do have a sub, I'd try setting the HPF on your full-range to 100Hz and the sub to 80Hz. Or go with 80Hz for the Full-range and 60Hz for the sub. It's recommended to have one octave of separation in the filters to reduce the cancellation or spike that could occur. Again, it's up to you, your ears are the ones that will have to deal with it every time you drive the car, not ours.
Edited for some spelling errors and improper wording.
Last edited by Weigel21; 12-15-2012 at 06:36 PM.
12-22-2012
#8
Registered!!
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: Sony Xplod Settings
Yes, there is an Xplod setting in the preset EQ settings. It applies a good deal of gain (upwards of 10dB I think) on the lower frequency range, centered around 50-60Hz if I recall correctly. If a person isn't careful when setting the gain on a subwoofer amp and they set the gain for maximum output with the EQ set to flat/off and then uses the Xplod EQ setting, it will likely induce a clipped signal and a clipped signal WILL destroy the sub given enough time. It's all dependent on the sub/amp combo in question.
If you are just using full-range speakers, it will likely distort the hell out of them if you aren't using the HPF and can potentially damage them. If you're using the HPF, then it's redundant to use an EQ setting that amplifies the bass you're cutting from your speakers. At the same time, full-range speakers aren't intended to produce low fequencies well, so it makes little sense to ask them to produce more of it.
My 2 cents.
If you are just using full-range speakers, it will likely distort the hell out of them if you aren't using the HPF and can potentially damage them. If you're using the HPF, then it's redundant to use an EQ setting that amplifies the bass you're cutting from your speakers. At the same time, full-range speakers aren't intended to produce low fequencies well, so it makes little sense to ask them to produce more of it.
My 2 cents.
12-23-2012
#10
Re: Sony Xplod Settings
Yep, there is an Xplod setting on Sony headunits.
I use it.
I also use HPF on the unit, at 75Hz.
So my speakers will play anything down to 75Hz.
My sub amp also has a HPF, which is set to ~80Hz.
There's a little overlap between the 75~80Hz where both speaker and sub will play the same tones, so nothing is missed.
My system is tuned pretty damned good for someone who doesn't have an O-Scope or any sound testing equipment.
Music sounds amazing in my car.
I use it.
I also use HPF on the unit, at 75Hz.
So my speakers will play anything down to 75Hz.
My sub amp also has a HPF, which is set to ~80Hz.
There's a little overlap between the 75~80Hz where both speaker and sub will play the same tones, so nothing is missed.
My system is tuned pretty damned good for someone who doesn't have an O-Scope or any sound testing equipment.
Music sounds amazing in my car.
12-23-2012
#12
Registered!!
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: Sony Xplod Settings
Yep, there is an Xplod setting on Sony headunits.
I use it.
I also use HPF on the unit, at 75Hz.
So my speakers will play anything down to 75Hz.
My sub amp also has a HPF, which is set to ~80Hz.
There's a little overlap between the 75~80Hz where both speaker and sub will play the same tones, so nothing is missed.
My system is tuned pretty damned good for someone who doesn't have an O-Scope or any sound testing equipment.
Music sounds amazing in my car.
I use it.
I also use HPF on the unit, at 75Hz.
So my speakers will play anything down to 75Hz.
My sub amp also has a HPF, which is set to ~80Hz.
There's a little overlap between the 75~80Hz where both speaker and sub will play the same tones, so nothing is missed.
My system is tuned pretty damned good for someone who doesn't have an O-Scope or any sound testing equipment.
Music sounds amazing in my car.
As for no O-scope, if you set your gains by ear and are pleased, good for you, setting the gain on sub amps by ear is not the easiest for most, as it's difficult to detect clipping from subs. You could, if your equipment is trustworthy of its specs, use a DMM and 0dB 50Hz test tone to set your gain. It's the conservative way of setting the gain (as music is dynamic), but it insures a clean signal. I've heard few suggest using a -3dB recorded test tone instead (due to music being dynamic), but I've personally never done so, so I can't speak for it's results.
12-23-2012
#13
Re: Sony Xplod Settings
Kenny, as I'm sure you know, those crossover points have a roll-off slope and don't completely block frequencies beyond them, they merely reduce the output of them, more so the further from the crossover setting you get. Having the full-range HPF'd at 75Hz and the sub LPF'd (I'm sure that's what you meant) at 80Hz will likely result in either a large spike in output in the 75-80Hz range, or a drastic drop due to cancellation between the drivers. It is recommended to have the crossovers set slightly apart from each other, such as 70Hz for the sub, and 80Hz for the full-range. This is merely what the majority of car audio enthusiasts suggest and it is by no means law. If you like how it sounds the way you have it, that's GREAT, after all, it's your ears it needs to please.
As for no O-scope, if you set your gains by ear and are pleased, good for you, setting the gain on sub amps by ear is not the easiest for most, as it's difficult to detect clipping from subs. You could, if your equipment is trustworthy of its specs, use a DMM and 0dB 50Hz test tone to set your gain. It's the conservative way of setting the gain (as music is dynamic), but it insures a clean signal. I've heard few suggest using a -3dB recorded test tone instead (due to music being dynamic), but I've personally never done so, so I can't speak for it's results.
As for no O-scope, if you set your gains by ear and are pleased, good for you, setting the gain on sub amps by ear is not the easiest for most, as it's difficult to detect clipping from subs. You could, if your equipment is trustworthy of its specs, use a DMM and 0dB 50Hz test tone to set your gain. It's the conservative way of setting the gain (as music is dynamic), but it insures a clean signal. I've heard few suggest using a -3dB recorded test tone instead (due to music being dynamic), but I've personally never done so, so I can't speak for it's results.
LPF/HPF - Non technical, for the most part is interchangeable. But for the sake of what I was explaining, yes, LPF.
And like you said earlier, music is very dynamic.
You will almost never get a tone during your music to stay at 75~80Hz range.
I do happen to like having a little overlap, so that the sub will pick up the tones where the speakers are starting to drop off. (Since ~75Hz is starting to be the low end of the spectrum)
As for the gains, mine are set by DMM; not by ear.
I think I used a 60hz -6db track as suggested by a few.
My amp is tuned down to about ~340W RMS and it sounds amazing.
Since I don't have an amp for my speakers, I had to tune it down otherwise my sub would overpower my speakers easily at the full 500W RMS.
I do have a full DIY for gain setting with DMM on this forum.
My sub really compliments my mids/highs as of right now. It's not obnoxiously loud, but the power is there when I want it.
12-23-2012
#14
Registered!!
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 Re: Sony Xplod Settings
Please forgive my ignorance, for I am new to the site and knew not of your car audio experience and knowledge.
A -6dB test tone you say? Can't say as I personally have ever heard one say to use a -6dB tone. That would result in you having to turn the gain up higher to achieve the full 500RMS from your amp, were you to set it for that, and it makes me wonder if the output would in fact be clean at that level.
Again, never tested this, but in my mind, lets say a guy used a 0dB test tone and set it for 30VAC. Then without changing anything they play a -3dB test tone and measure the output. I would believe it would read less than 30VAC, but by how much I'm not entirely sure. Then if one went further and used a -6DB test tone, I would believe it would read less yet.
So, if the output from the amp was set for 500RMS using a -6dB test tone and your amp were rated at but 500RMS, I could potentially see the output being clipped, even if it's only just.
An experiment I'd like to try, and perhaps you'd be willing to play along, is to do just that. Given your amp is currently set for 340RMS using a -6dB test tone, I wonder what the VAC output would indicate it to be with a -3dB and -0dB test tone.
It's awfully cold here and getting somewhat dark, so I can't (read that as won't) test my theory, but I plan to do so tomorrow if it's nice enough, due to the absence of a garage. I really need to get an O-scope, DD1, or something to more accurately set my gains.
As it stands though, my amp is able to produce more clean power than my sub can take, so the use of a DMM to set my gain is reliable, IMO. I mean I know my amp can make more clean power than I have it set for, it's just that my sub isn't able to take it with out being over driven.
Sorry, starting to thread jack now.
A -6dB test tone you say? Can't say as I personally have ever heard one say to use a -6dB tone. That would result in you having to turn the gain up higher to achieve the full 500RMS from your amp, were you to set it for that, and it makes me wonder if the output would in fact be clean at that level.
Again, never tested this, but in my mind, lets say a guy used a 0dB test tone and set it for 30VAC. Then without changing anything they play a -3dB test tone and measure the output. I would believe it would read less than 30VAC, but by how much I'm not entirely sure. Then if one went further and used a -6DB test tone, I would believe it would read less yet.
So, if the output from the amp was set for 500RMS using a -6dB test tone and your amp were rated at but 500RMS, I could potentially see the output being clipped, even if it's only just.
An experiment I'd like to try, and perhaps you'd be willing to play along, is to do just that. Given your amp is currently set for 340RMS using a -6dB test tone, I wonder what the VAC output would indicate it to be with a -3dB and -0dB test tone.
It's awfully cold here and getting somewhat dark, so I can't (read that as won't) test my theory, but I plan to do so tomorrow if it's nice enough, due to the absence of a garage. I really need to get an O-scope, DD1, or something to more accurately set my gains.
As it stands though, my amp is able to produce more clean power than my sub can take, so the use of a DMM to set my gain is reliable, IMO. I mean I know my amp can make more clean power than I have it set for, it's just that my sub isn't able to take it with out being over driven.
Sorry, starting to thread jack now.
12-23-2012
#15
Re: Sony Xplod Settings
That's fine, this thread is looking to be a dud anyways.
And I don't have a huge experience in car audio, but I know from what I read.
I have no professional experience in the industry.
I think I may play along with your experiment as well.
Let me go find a rewritable cd and stick a bunch of tones on there, all at different levels.
This may end up on the forum probably early next year though, since holidays are in effect right now.
But in other notes:
My gains are only up about half way.
-6db was an interesting choice I chose to go with; -3db or 0db is where I hear most are tuned, but I was suggested by a few who mentioned that tuning for -6db will set you at a level environment across all music recorded at different levels.
There is no audible clipping; unless I go past my volume mark that I set as max for my tuning.
And I don't have a huge experience in car audio, but I know from what I read.
I have no professional experience in the industry.
I think I may play along with your experiment as well.
Let me go find a rewritable cd and stick a bunch of tones on there, all at different levels.
This may end up on the forum probably early next year though, since holidays are in effect right now.
But in other notes:
My gains are only up about half way.
-6db was an interesting choice I chose to go with; -3db or 0db is where I hear most are tuned, but I was suggested by a few who mentioned that tuning for -6db will set you at a level environment across all music recorded at different levels.
There is no audible clipping; unless I go past my volume mark that I set as max for my tuning.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
