Rep Power: 188

What type of Dome light bulb does a 6th gen have? I'm going to upgrade it to LED, probably red, and definitely 5050 type LEDs for best brightness.

It's not a 'DE3022' or 'DE3175', that's what the Sylvania lamp replacement guide says but 3022 looks like a cylindrical glass fuse looking bulb and this is not.

T10; No, I think a T10 is too wide and bulky of a base.

It's a wedge type, close to 1/3" wide at the socket.
T1?T3?

See pics
http://s909.photobucket.com/albums/a...0light%20pics/


EDIT: I think I found what they are. I had a sealed thing of replacement BP168 bulbs and they look exactly the same as my dome light. 168 and 194 are the same form factor, but different wattage ratings. I would guess 194 is 5watts, which is what the dome is, and 168 is more.
Now, I wonder if I can find a 24 LED array of 5050 red LEDs attached to the socket with a plug and wiring to mount the rectangular LED array with tape..

EDIT: I'm not positive with it being 168/194. Sometimes 168/194 is used in the same sentence as 't10' and 't3'
EDIT: It might be 't10' form factor after all. We'll see
EDIT: Looks like I might get the Oznium Superflux 25-LED 'cool white' dome light, hope it connects OK to the fixture. The superflux LED has 4 chips in it versus 3 chips of 5050 LEDs. It seems to be the brightest product on the market besides using HID in the cabin or something. We'll see how bright it gets and if 't10' is the form factor for my car.

 
Rep Power: 188

Superbrightled.com has a chart for your car

 
Rep Power: 188

Thanks for the heads up. Turns out they say the same thing. The dome light is not a DE3022. It doesn't look like a cylindrical fuse looking bulb, it's a wedge. T10 (194, 168) most likely.
Maybe it's true for other trims of the Civic but these guides don't give that info.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/vehic...model/23/358/3

 
Rep Power: 188

168 is usually what is used for licesnce plate bulbs....I would say T10 is your best bet.

 
Rep Power: 188

Confirmed, it's a T10 (168, 194) style.

Now my dome light fixture selector switch has always been finicky. You have to dink with it to get full brightness with 'on' and 'door'. Now with the LED light on, it's very hard to get good brightness. I don't think it's the ground screw but it could be, it's on tight though and I think it's clean metal.

Just tapping it with my finger can go from high brightness to very dim, but it is a pattern.

I called about 10 auto parts/wrecking yards and 2 might have replacement fixtures. I'd have to drive over and check it out. One that's about 30 miles away for $10-$15 and one a lot closer for $24.

EDIT: Here's a video: http://youtu.be/qdfsHIU_ZIc

Ever since I bought the car, with the regular incandescent bulb in the dome light, the light was slightly brighter in the "ON" mode versus the "door" mode. Is this normal?

 
Rep Power: 188

OK, fixed it! The metal contactors above the switch all had a dark mark through them from the wear and tear over the years. I filed it down, along with the switch contactors and it's working much better now. Still a bit flickery but not an issue.



Pics:
http://s909.photobucket.com/albums/a...0light%20pics/


Edit: And yes, it is normal for the dome light to be brighter in "ON" than when on "door". Three contactors. The 2-wires going into the dome light fixture are both hot, one is 12 volts and the other is something less. In door Mode 12V is '+' and the lower voltage is '-' so the total voltage difference is less than 12V so the light is dimmer. When on "ON", the '+' is 12V and case ground '-'is 0V