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Looked at some reviews on Amazon about catalytic cleaner.
Some said product they bought was worthless. One said it worked for him but suspected people only did not cleaning and not buy two cans of cleaner per manufacturers instruction.
One guy said he was a mechanic and suspicions but tried one kind and found that the cleaner worked.

Anyone on this site try a catalytic converter cleaner? Can it prevent having to spend the bucks to replace a converter?
Did read that you have to make sure to get the exact replacement converter to fit your particular Honda.

 
Rep Power: 518

Why? Is there a problem? What's the problem?




My psychic friend says you got a code P0420 !!! LOL
I tend to agree.

If the engine had misfires or ran rich and physically damaged the cat by either melting or breaking the substrate, the only correct fix is replacement.

If it set the cat efficiency code and the substrate is still intact, try whatever cleaning suggestions you want.....but know the best thing that could happen is it staves off the inevitable just a little longer....and will still need replaced in the future.
At worst.....you already needed a cat anyway and you're $50 poorer on top of it.

Erase fault codes and see how long it takes to reset the same code?
Does the car have to pass an emissions test? What kind of test?
California certified cat is gonna last longer than a cheapo.
There are ways to fool the computer so it doesn't set the cat code...but none are lawful (hugs a tree).


What killed the cat?
At almost 200k, if it never had misfires and was never contaminated, it's probably just worn out.
Oil consumption can slowly ruin a cat too.

 
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Believe that was the code number.
Just wondered about the cleaner stuff. Was hoping it was worth a shot.
This DX has 190 k miles on her.

Not time for inspection yet. Not till July.

Hope the two O2 sensors are not compromised.

 
Rep Power: 210

 
Rep Power: 518

^Skip to 25:40 for the conclusion, and pay attention to the explanation @ 26:20 for some gospel!


I was staring at all the solvents going in the bucket at 7:00 and just about got high from the fumes.

 
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That guy has really good BMW videos. Explains things thoroughly and doesn't rush repairs.

 
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This is the fiancée's car.
Manifold was replaced about three years ago. Is the manifold and converter one piece on the Honda Civic DX?

When searching for convertors looks as if convertor and manifold are one piece ranging in price for $350 to almost $600.

So could there be another reason to get the code for efficiency? One of the O2 sensors? Exhaust problem?

And still have to have an offset O2 socket to remove the sensor from the manifold.

 
Rep Power: 518

Yes
How many miles is that?

Was it a cheapie cat?
Cali?
Yes. Air leaks are a possibility. Sensor failure that the ECM couldn't detect is a possiblity but rare.

But it's usually just a bad cat.


I JUST changed an upper sensor on a 2000 Civic, the offset tool I have would not fit through the hole in the heat shield.
I had to use an O2 sensor socket, the deepwell kind with a slot cut in the side of it.

 
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I do not know how many miles ago she had it replaced.
Fiancée is one of those put in gas and go. She did get oil changed though.

 
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She called back to tell me...
Manifold replaced in 2013. Car had about 160,70 miles on her.
Now has 190,200 miles on her.

 
Rep Power: 518

30k isn't much, but if it's a cheapo that might be all that can be expected. (many cheapies fail before the warranty is over)

Warranty on a cheapo cat might only be a year.
Warranty on a California certified cat might be much longer.

But many other problems can ruin a cat.
Oil consumption can slowly ruin a cat.
If an engine runs bad enough, even a brand new cat can be ruined in only a matter of minutes.

 
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Do not think oil usage is a problem.
Do not think there is an engine problem. Wish I had more info about the replaced one years ago.
Vacating today so going to take it off now.

 
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I SURE DO HOPE THAT CAT IS BAD.

It WAS A BeaR TO GET OFF.
Cannot GET THE O2 SENSORS OUT OF THE MANIFOLD OR THE CAT.
Boggered the flats on the cat O2 sensor. See that the wire cover over wires on top is dinged or dented trying to get it past the A/C fan.
The O2 sensor socket just flexed.

After removing the cat from manifold see that the honeycomb just looks slightly gray or almost white.

 
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Amazon requests transmission type to determine which cat to buy.
How do I find out?
a metal tag welded to cat has
TD 2100
08/12 ECOll
08/12 must be year manufactured.

 
Rep Power: 518

ECO II appears to be offered by Eastern Catalytic.

I has a stupid question for you.
You have it off the car now?

Is it made of two sections that bolt together?
Reason I ask is I found this picture that shows cat separate from the manifold




Honda doesn't offer it this way, from them it's one big expensive piece.


I'd expect the choices are limited to: manual, automatic, or CVT

 
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Yes, it is off the car. Manifold and cat have four bolt, found flange.
Yes it looks just like that picture posted.

Amazon has three automatic four speed transaxles listed: B46A, B4RA, and M4RA.

So is this Eastern cat a cheapo?

Just read an article on the Eastern web site.
Need to check that voltage on O2 sensors like the guy showed in video posted above. Since there are no other problems with the car and no other codes and reading replies to first post feel that it is bad.

Still wonder about going buying from NAPA or Advanced Auto.
Guess will have to buy two o2 sensors since they are not letting go.

I do appreciate all the reposes to my quandary.

 
Rep Power: 518

Maybe the same place will sell JUST the cat section without the manifold cheaper than both parts together. Contact them, inquire, and maybe you can use the part numbers you found stamped?

You'll have to research the trans types and what they came in.

It's not California C.A.R.B. certified, so yes it's their 'cheap' offering for federal or 49 state.
Check warranty on a California cat, consider that vs. the price bump....and consider if you will keep the car that long.
Seems pointless if you aren't going to reuse them.

 
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Something else...
Some time past noticed a hesitation or slower acceleration and longer time for shifting. At first thought I should check the transmission fluid. Maybe it needed more or some leaked out after changing it last summer. Well level was OK and had noticed the what seemed to be a slower shift change has not been a problem lately or before the code set for efficiency.

 
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WHAT THE HECK!

Started tightening the nuts to cat studs on exhaust end and just screwing stud right on through the cat flange. Supposedly the nuts are oval locking nuts. Is the flange metal that soft??? Looks like the un-threaded portion of stud is going into flange.
Guess I need to find some nuts and lock washers.

 
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Cheap cat is cheap?

 
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That must be it.
Guess it want last long.

What should have taken a morning has taken all day.
What is the difference between up- and downstream sensor? wire length?

 
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The last one gave up after only what, 30k? That should say a lot.

Depends, it varies from car to car.

Sensor type on some models (AF/LAF/WB vs. O2)
Location/position (pre-cat vs. post-cat)
wire length
terminal type
connector shell configuration
wire terminal position in the connector

Many times the 4 wire sensors are made so you cannot accidentally swap their connectors

 
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The future father-in-law got it; suspect the last one came from NAPA too.

 
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Maybe 'it is just my imagination'
Believe the old girl runs better. Smoother. No hesitation.
On to the timing belt, sometime.