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Car has been running good after the whole idle issue....now this am I start it up since its been sitting a good 3 days....right away pop a code p0133 I think. High output...now thr only thing that's been touch on thr intake was re attaching a wire to the air sensor going into air intake...possible they are switched? Want to fix it right previous owner had it tucked.. sorry about the quick post and the bad picture quality I'm currently working on the car on my cell phone

 
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Okay so I switch the wires around because I did not know which one was positive which one was negative started the car up put the scanner on and now I'm throwing a code for the exact opposite now it's low voltage to the IAT.. rpms dropped to 800s however and sounds better...
Thoughts. Whatever numbers you need I can them

 
Rep Power: 518

IAt sensor shouldn't be polarity sensitive. I'm thinking you may have wire terminals not in the original connector shell (or bare wires?), your high code is from an open circuit, and the low code is from shorting the terminals together.

Can that tool display the actual temperature value?

 
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IAT TEMP 419.0

TPS 9.4
Rpm 871
MAP 8.6
Been idling for 5 min or so going around block

 
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EDIT: Alright, now that I can type productively on a normal keyboard here we go..replaced the AIT sensor to the best of my ability...found it pretty muich tucked away near the intake..so stripped fresh wire, added some small terminal connectors and spaced them (so i thought with heat shrink around each wire (red/green) i know this isnt in any way the best approach but 1.) limited parts, supplies and time to worry if its been running this whole time with a CEL...plus I had planned on adressing my lock issue today...

It's almost embarrassing how simple it could be..but hey 900$ was a good price. The seller had car smogged prior to sale etc..it passed..the minute i took over his payments to his boss i started taking off what i saw as restrictions on the already puny automatic d16y7....Noo name intake from autozone was #1..no biggie mostly like the sound Ha Ha..
From there a meet a friend who also has a 4 door 6th gen...his was an EX...I own an LX....he sells me his header/stock ex exhaust and a muffler (still sitting there becaue i saw "ford" stamped on it)

Ok so i install it that night..seemed harder then the previous installs on my cars...at first the header felt like it was off somehow but i managed it (likely forced it) at first i decide on keeping my LX piping but shortly swap his EX pipes obviously due to fitment issues......I remember TWO 02 sensors that i removed. one was plugged back in near the end of the header where it meets the exhaust..i knew id still throw a code because my original cat/exhaust manifold had one as well but now i had nowhere to put it etc....slowly i noticed the rough idles, irregular smells, smoke and begin throwing parts at it to no avail...

intermission edit - look Im exhausted...someone humor me tell me im not crazy but the "hole" i plugged halfway down this ex exhaust i have on my lx was infact the catalytic converter (i was used to seeing mine on manifold with Lx...so ive been running a possibly collapsed/defective or whatever cat with and the fitment issues/ exhaust leak at the header is from it not aligning right...

im going to snap a quick picture of the underneath of the car...i can identify a cat. on the lx obviously but what threw me off was the fact this one was welded on...assumed test pipe..never took a second look. picture momentarily. If this does sound legit someone agree just go easy. ego already bruised lol

 
Rep Power: 518

Looks like the temp value of a dead short between the two wires.

If the sensor is unplugged the scanner would probably say -40*

 
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And it's done just that as well..however...the factory plug has been cut from then IT so I'm trying to figure out how to connect it or if I need to breakdown and get one from Honda if still available

Pics next

 
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soo tired from all this..

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...XM?usp=sharing

made a special album bc i kept getting errors uploading...notice how in the pics i had to constantly reseal header...

 
Rep Power: 518

I saw 7 pics, none of the IAT.

Sounds like you just need to keep both terminals on the sensor at the same time AND keep them separated from each other.....but if the female terminals have lost tension, that's a bad connection.

Recycle yard is your best bet, chop off an IAT connector with a pigtail and splice it to your harness..... Get the sensor too?

 
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A little update:
redoing the IAT connection today...i did a sloppy soldering job and believe that both terminals were connecting even with my "homemade spacer....found a universal two pin pigtail I'll try first before junk yard...as for the rest of the random idle issues I just now realized my lx now has exhaust from an ex (no catalytiv) converter built into exhaust manifold. Ordered a 32" extension for new sensor off amazon for tomorrows delivery..just have to determine which female end to connect to..
thought about getting a "test pipe"...the current system has been cut welded etc so it won't bolt up and I don't own a welder....these two issues fixed and maybe the door lock issue and ill be content...also bought a multimeter...ill admit I've never used one before but feel it will help save $$ with guessing and throwing parts at the car...youtube should be able to give me a quick crash coure/refresher.....also today NEW brakes!! (Shoes and hardware) have a nice day

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tp2U9nn0KwV2N3dmVnWDF0Mnc/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_t...VnWDF0Mnc/view
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_t...VnWDF0Mnc/view

 
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At this point it looks like I'm talking to myself
...just rewired the IAT nice and need started it up and I've been idling for 10 to 15...here are the numbers

code P0122 GONE
ENG RPM 963 (gotta bring it down)
Spark adv 18.0
IAT 59.0

also I now read 02SB1S1 (V) .760 and increasing???
still throwing a cell for the 02 of course....bank 2 circuit malf...maybe i need to wire it better as well??

 
Rep Power: 518

After it's become active, the front sensor should be constantly bouncing all over anywhere between 0 and 1v.
What code number?