zain

After further diagnosis my car had a blown head gasket. I used a head gasket "fix" thing to temporarily seal the gasket as i need a car to get to work with. I am looking into a DIY solution for replacing the head gasket, so my question is: where is the best video/ guide on a Head Gasket replacement? Also, what tools should i get and what else should i replace while i perform this maintenance? I will definitely do my valve cover gasket, because it appears to have a slight leak. any help is appreciated! thank you

Colin42

Well lets hope that didn't screw up anything else...

Go read this:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...arts-list.html

Its for the 7th gen but but the proceedure/links will still be helpful since the engines are similar

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Here's the part number for the head gasket kit

06110-P2A-030

It'll run you $213 shipped from hondaautomotiveparts.com

Some internet sleuthing tells me it comes with the following (because I can't tell wtf it comes with from the Honda diagram):

• 12251-P2J-004 - Head gasket
• 17105-P2F-A02 - IM Gasket
• 18115-P2A-003 - EM gasket
• 12210-PZ1-004 - Exhaust Valve seals (x8)
• 12211-PZ1-004 - Intake Valve seals (x8) (it should be noted that on my parts list that colin linked, I couldn't distinguish any difference between the intake and exhaust valve seals. They were seriously lumped into a bag containing 16 seals)
• (can't find part number) - Spark plug tube seals
• 90442-P2A-000 - Valve cover bolt rubber washer
• 12341-P2F-A00 - Valve cover gasket
• 11833-P08-000 - Timing belt back cover gasket, L
• 11832-P28-A00 - Timing belt back cover gasket, R
• 91213-P2F-A01 - Cam Seal
• some o-rings I couldn't readily identify

zain

so you recommend i go ahead and replace all of these things while the engine is apart?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

out of that kit, at the very least the head gasket, EM gasket, IM gasket.

When I wrote up that parts list that colin linked, I used every gasket the kit included, just because I had it all taken apart anyways. The valve seals take a bit more disassembly to replace, cam seal took all of 5 minutes to do. Valve cover gasket was too easy not to do. Spark plug tube seals were a bit of a hassle to do, but not very invasive.

tl;dr: wouldn't hurt, since it's all gonna be taken apart anyways.

zain

thank you. how much time should i allot for this maintenance? im pretty new to cars and dont want to be stuck in the garage when i have work/class etc

Colin42

if you had experience you could probably have it done in a day, but just in case:

start on friday night, that way you have til monday morning in case anything goes sideways, if you have any buddys that work on cars bribe them with pizza and beer to come help.

also how badly did you overheat the engine? because if the head is warped you're going to need to get that machined. Also you should get it checked anyways, hopefully there's a machine shop near you thats either open late or does a half day on saturday where you can get the head checked

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I did my head gasket job in 2.5 days. Day 1 was disassembly. Day 2 was more disassembly, cleaning, installing, and reassembly. Day 3 was buttoning everything up.

Mind you, I had a spare head that was already decked, awaiting parts to swap over.

ezone

Absolutely this!

If the head is warped and you don't get that resolved now, you're just wasting a whole bunch of time and money.

You cannot eyeball head warpage. Have it measured by a professional. Many will measure it for free or for a pittance of a minimal fee.


Again, bigger for more emphasis because it's really really important:

zain

as stated in the post i used some head gasket "fixer" which has had the car running very stable. if the head itself was warped i dont think it would be running good, would it?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

the head gasket fixer would have filled in any gaps that head warping would have caused. Just like how putty could fill gaps on a drywall patch. The HG fixer is like putting a bandaid on something that needs stitches.

ezone

It can be warped and still 'run fine'.


After you get the head removed, have it measured for warpage by a professional.

You will never be able to eyeball 0.002" of warpage (max allowable warpage spec)

If it were warped bad enough to eyeball it and see the warp, I absolutely expect the engine would not be able to run...and there would be a lot more problems than JUST a warped head.

Wankenstein

Mine had a stripped head bolt, was warped (after checking with straight edge and feeler gauges) and still ran well. Only sign was coolant loss in radiator and coolant gain in reservoir.

If that sealer you put in it is working it will most likely be temporary at best. trouble with that stuff is (as mentioned previously) it can possibly clogg a radiator and/or heater core. Supposedly, pepper can work as well:

http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-li...y/n10613?snl=1