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hey all, im new to the forums and need some pretty major help.

i just swapped out my stock engine (locked up) with another d16y7. Now, I've got a real bad idle fluctuation when the car turns over. i cleaned the IACV but havent yet checked for vac leaks. Also the car is not smooth whatsoever. it sounds like i got some ford mustang engine in it. The car starts out at high idle, then does this crazy yo-yoing with the rpms. Im talking between 2.5k rpm-5krpm.. please help, i need this thing out of here!!!

 
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Are there any Check Engine Lights on?

Check your vac lines. You probably missed a vac line somewhere. If not, check your injectors, I pinched mine when I was doing my turbo install. You can also take some carb cleaner with the car running and spray the following places (use the straw, it's more accurate).
Spray the Intake Mani gasket,
your injectors (where the orings would be)
All vac lines and where they connect
Throttle Body
Basically anywhere on the intake inside of the motor. Listen for a drop in the rpm's once that happens you found your vac leak.

Did your torque the Intake Mani correctly?

 
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Thanks for the reply!

yea im pretty sure i torqued it correctly. i have a P0113 code: my IAT sensor is running to high, and the seems to overheat. the code is because my air intake is completely off im guessing. but also the car sounds rough to begin with since i got that engine in. tmrw im checking the vac lines and gonna try to bleed and circulate the coolant with newer coolant. could that help?

 
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Swapped connectors are common after major work. The MAP and TPS are 2 that will swap on several cars, and I think the IAC can swap with something too, but I have no idea what. Check wire colors for each sensor against a wiring diagram.

If it's going from 2500 to 5000 RPM, then the throttle is jacked open. Or there is a combination of things going on. See the swapped connectors comment.
If the TPS value the computer sees indicates it should be closed (see the swapped connectors comment), then fuel cut comes on at only 2000rpm no matter how big of a vacuum leak there is. If the TPS value indicates anything greater than a closed position, then fuel cut does not happen.
The normal fuel cut surge is only from 2000 to 1200 RPM.

 
Rep Power: 215

I just remembered my car idled like that when I had low coolant. Makes Sense Short of checking for open wires. Put the Intake back, Reset the ECU and check for it to come back.



Do you know the best way to do this? Unless you have a bleeder screw, not sure when they stopped putting those in.

Put something behind the back tires (2x4 works pretty good), also use your E-Brake. Jack the front end up as high as you can get it. You want the radiator up higher than the engine. Start the car and turn your heater to the hottest (it doesn't have to be on) watch the coolant. Let the fans come on, and then it should burp. You can also squeeze the lower hose going to the radiator. The water should rise and drop as it drops add coolant. The best to use is the premixed stuff IMO...