bymitten

Hello,

I'm a newbie when it comes to cars so easy on me if I reply with a stupid response. lol Anyways, I own a 2001 Honda Civic w/ an automatic transmission.

Problem #1: Car makes a ticking noise (sounds like a woodpecker) whenever I press the accelerator.

When the car is idle, in park, neutral or coasting, there is no ticking noise. And it only seems to happen shortly after starting my car and stops after about 10-20 minutes of driving on side roads. After driving on the highway for a while, there is no ticking at all after this.

A mechanic told me it could be the pistons. Over time they have worn out and have play within them. After the car has warmed up, the metal expands and there isn't any play for the pistons to knock around. Though, I find this hard to believe if it only happens when I'm in drive.


Problem #2: A squealing noise after starting the car and sometimes when I press the accelerator to fast.

It's more noticeable when it has rained or is just damp out. I was thinking it has something to do with one of the belts ... ?? *shrugs* Or maybe both problems correlate with one another.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. You guys have always been able to help me out in the past!

lazlong

1. Probably need a valve adjustment

2. You need to tighten or replace one of the accessory belts.

Are you into DIY or just need pointed in the right direction when going to the mechanic? The valve adjustment is rather involved for a noob but, the belt tightening is very easy.

bymitten

First of all, thanks for the quick reply!

1. Do you know how much a valve adjustment should cost if I were to bring it to a mechanic?

2. Accessory belts? Does this include the timing belt? I had that changed around 160 - 180,000km if I remember correctly. And I believe it's suppose to be replaced every 60 or 100,000kms. I'm at 231,000km right now.

I am into DIY but only if I feel comfortable doing it. If I open that hood and feel lost, then I won't touch anything. lol Is there an easy way of checking the belts' tensions? Pictures (video is even better) and clear instructions would be great. Could you point me in the right direction (ie. the correct forum on what I'm needing)?

Thanks.

lazlong

1. No, but I would imagine at least $200.

2. Doesn't include the timing belt. Accessories are A/C compressor, alternator, and power steering pump from bottom to top:

At point A the deflection should be as described at the top. Deflection is the movement perpendicular to the movement of the the belt- how far it moves up and down while it's rotating around. Should be able to loosen B and C and take a pry bar and hold the belt tight with the alternator while tightening those bolts.

-You'll have to move the PS pump out of the way to work from the top.
-I've sometimes found it easier to take the plastic inner fender out and work it from there.

bymitten

1. Ok. I'll have to shop around and see what price I get.

2. Hmmm. Now that's what I'm talking about when I mentioned getting lost! lol I understand the diagram and all, and I thank you for it, but I'm not that confident nor have the know-how. It's nice to know that it's not my timing belt. That thing is costly to replace. :S

Well, I guess I'm left with shopping around to have these things looked at and fixed. Thank you for all your help lazlong. I appreciate it.

If anyone else has any input, feel free to post. Thanks everyone.

bymitten

Thought I'd write a follow up.

I had my car looked at. The squealing noise was due to the alternator belt. Had it replaced. The ticking noise, I was told, was due to "piston slap". So nothing was repaired in regards to that as an engine rebuild would have to be done (Can anyone say, "Cha-ching!"?)

But I have noticed one thing. For about a month or so, I've stopped putting in gas from the Pioneer gas station, which I might add, I never use to put into my car ... ever! And since then, the ticking noise has decreased in the time it takes to disappear and how rapidly the ticking noise is. Sometimes, the noise is never heard!

I assume the gas from Pioneer is somehow a lower grade of gasoline as their price always seems to be a cent or more less than others or they just choose to price their gas less; I don't know. Does anyone know more about this possible lower grade of gas and/or if a lower grade can cause the engine to tick when cold?

* When I say a "lower grade", I'm not referring to the different octane levels available when filling up.

ezone

Between this post and one of the others, you just described carbon knock.

Inferior quality fuels often lead to carbon buildup on top of the pistons over time. Once the carbon builds up high enough, it can contact the cylinder head. Normally it is more noticeable when the engine is cold and goes away as the engine gets warmed up. Acts quite similar to piston slap, but piston slap is strictly consistent with temperature changes. Carbon buildup can change easily with different fuels, and hot rodding the engine can knock down the buildup.

Learn about quality fuels here: http://www.toptiergas.com/

lazlong

^^ Ha! Time for the "Italian Tune-up". lol.

ezone

A proper de-carbon procedure may be more effective.

bymitten

Hmm. That video is very interesting! Thanks! Certainly describes my situation more precisely. You mentioned that "hot rodding" will help. Not sure if that was suppose to be a joke or not. lol I'm a novice when it comes to cars ... be gentle. What do you mean by that?

P.S. - It's nice to know Shell is part of the Top Tier program. That's all I use to put in before I started putting in gas from Pioneer (a non-Top Tier participant). Only putting in gas from Shell, Esso or Petro Canada from now on.

ezone

Did I miss something? What video? Maybe I'm thinking of one on another thread. I was asleep or something.

Since you said the noise goes away completely when it's warmed up, then it should be piston related, and carbon on top of the pistons fit your descriptions. Even if it was piston slap, it wouldn't be a huge problem as long as it goes away when the engine is at operating temperature. (BTW, the previous 2 generations of Civics from yours had a LOT of piston slap and main bearing rattle, without being a big problem other than they didn't sound like sewing machines.)

Hot rodding it would be foot on the floor for as long and as often as possible. High RPM/high load. Racing. Get the pistons HOT. Try to knock the carbon loose and blow the carbon out of the engine. (Insert favorite slur here) tune up.
What it does it attempt to burn off excessive carbon from the piston tops. What it accomplishes first is squash the carbon buildup down just a little so it is a bit quieter for a really short while.
There are other ways of dealing with it.

It's no coincidence that you noticed the noise after using cheap fuel for a while. If it is slowly lessening by using better fuel, then just keep using it and see what happens. Burn the proper low octane gas though. High octane does nothing for these cars but make them run a bit rough on startup.

Did that help?

lazlong

How is it a slur when it comes from Ferrari mechanics? Next thing you know they'll label anchor babies a derogatory term because it hurts illegals' feelings. Oh wait, they already did that.

Silly Leftists, quit trying to destroy the great country my ancestors helped build over the last 400+ years.

@ bymitten: Sorry about the thread jack. America haters really chap my azz.

bymitten

Thanks ezone! Yes, that was helpful! So basically, flooring the accelerator so the engine goes into over-drive would be considered "hot rodding it", correct? If so, I can do this whenever I merge onto the highway, though it wouldn't be for very long as you suggested; I mean, it is a Honda! lol Not really known for it's quick acceleration. ... a stock Honda, that is.

And ezone, the video I'm referring to was on the website link you first posted. "http://www.toptiergas.com/". Thought I'd remind you so you didn't think you were going crazy or something.

@ lazlong, Don't worry about the hijacking. You helped me out from the beginning.

lazlong

To "hot rod" it just do laps around an empty parking lot at high RPM's.

ezone

Um, yeah but your terminology is wrong. That isn't "overdrive", that's driving hard. Overdrive is a gear ratio of less than 1:1 in a transmission or driveline (in my world).

Also, there are better ways of reducing carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, and it takes a little work. Just burning better fuel requires absolutely no extra work.


Oh, THAT video. That's somewhat new, it wasn't there when I first started using that site a few years ago.

bymitten

Sorry for the late reply.

Your explanation of what overdrive is didn't help. lol But nonetheless, why do some car have the overdrive option? What is it used for?
Is there a name for what I described in my last post ... when I floor the gas pedal, the engine roars and the car takes off?

Regarding the ticking sound ... it is virtually non-existent now! I might hear a handful of muffled-sounding ticks when the car is still cold but other than that, it's good. Just have to keep putting in that top tier gas.

Thanks for all your help guys!! Merry Christmas too!

ezone

Fuel economy at higher or highway speeds. To get the engine to turn slower RPMs when less power is needed (cruising steady speed).

Hot rodding it, blowing the cobs out, abusing the car, being a teenager, killing gas mileage, wasting gas. Want more? LOL

Good deal!

YW, Merry X-mas!