Brian Bills

Alright guys need some help here. Spent a couple days trying to solve this and need a few pointers to take me over the finish line. I've thoroughly searched the site for similar issues but haven't had much luck.

Symptom:
Driver side rear window suddenly would only go down but not up. Master left rear switch completely INOP.

What I've done so far:
1) Regulator good (hooked it up to passenger side rear and functions perfectly in both directions)
2) Rear switch good (swapped both the rears)
3) All fuses good
4) The three wires running from the master 20P connector to the left rear window switch have continuity
5) I have 12v at the left rear window switch on the two wires going to the regulator when commanding down but 0v when commanding up
6) Performed the master switch test in the manual and all seems normal

BTW the window moves freely so this seems to be strictly an electrical issue.

My gut tells me that I need a new master switch assembly. But it passes all the continuity checks in the manual?

ezone

Remove/disconnect rear window switch, test 2 wires for continuity to ground (master switch in rest position): brown/white, and brown.

If either wire is not grounded , then recheck same wires at the master switch to see if the switch is bad or if there's a break in a wire

Brian Bills

OK, tell me if I did what you intended.

I removed the rear switch and checked for continuity between the brown/white and yellow/red(Ground?) right where the switch would plug in. As well as between the brown and yellow/red. No continuity.

Then with the master switch also plugged in I checked for continuity between the brown/white and black as well as brown and black at the 20P connector. I did have continuity.

These results are the same with the ignition on or off? Is the yellow/red wire in the back not really ground?


Appreciate the help!

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Here is a schematic:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/a...7&d=1350598426

ezone

The schematic would tell you this is not a ground. You can't check continuity using that wire, BUT if you know what that wire is you can adjust testing to find what we need to know.

Connect one meter lead to a chassis or battery ground for testing a wire for continuity to ground.

Brian Bills

OK, thanks guys. Got the schematic and ran the test properly. Here are the results with the rear switch removed:

-I have no continuity with chassis ground and the brown wire at the rear switch.
-I do have continuity in the following places: brown/white at rear switch, brown at master 20P, brown/white at master 20P.

Am I to assume this means there's a break in the brown wire somewhere between the rear switch and the 20P connector going into the master switch panel?

ezone

Sounds like brown wire is open circuit then?
Peel open the rubber harness cover in the rear door jamb and tug on the individual wires there. You'll probably find the break there.

Brian Bills

Problem solved!

It was in fact the brown wire in the rear door jam. Quite a doozy to fix but I'm up and running again. I also found two other wires about to cut through so I fixed those too.

Thank you all for your help!

ezone

I should have mentioned, the replacement door harness is damn cheap for what it is (45 US coconuts retail), I will never bother to repair another one because my time to repair the wires cost more than just stuffing another harness in it.