Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
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I have a 2004 civic vp, automatic
When i 1st bought the car (used) with like 80k miles, my battery will die like in 5-10 min if i had the stock radio on while engine off, also 1 headlight bulb burned out at that time as well. so i bought a new battery from autozone, the cheapest 1. that fixed the problem, also tested the alternator and it marked that it was good. so in the past 2 years i have had stop tail light burned out 2wice, driver side. signal light rear driver side 1nce.
headlight 2wice, hid's. and the interior cluster lights too, well only the AC control **** wont turn on and the hot/cold **** as well, but theres times when they to turn on, also the lights on the shifting ****, P R N D etc, also wont light up anynore, and the light that lights up the milage on the cluster wont light up. in the past my speed odo meter would act up, but know its working fine. earlier 2day my driver side hid headlight wouldnt go on, till i unplugged it and plugged every thing back in it worked just fine. has some one else had this issue before?
i have a falcon alarm, 1000watt amp with a 12' inch kicker, after market stereo, led's on my dome light and lic plate lights and fog lights too with hid's as well.
When i 1st bought the car (used) with like 80k miles, my battery will die like in 5-10 min if i had the stock radio on while engine off, also 1 headlight bulb burned out at that time as well. so i bought a new battery from autozone, the cheapest 1. that fixed the problem, also tested the alternator and it marked that it was good. so in the past 2 years i have had stop tail light burned out 2wice, driver side. signal light rear driver side 1nce.
headlight 2wice, hid's. and the interior cluster lights too, well only the AC control **** wont turn on and the hot/cold **** as well, but theres times when they to turn on, also the lights on the shifting ****, P R N D etc, also wont light up anynore, and the light that lights up the milage on the cluster wont light up. in the past my speed odo meter would act up, but know its working fine. earlier 2day my driver side hid headlight wouldnt go on, till i unplugged it and plugged every thing back in it worked just fine. has some one else had this issue before?
i have a falcon alarm, 1000watt amp with a 12' inch kicker, after market stereo, led's on my dome light and lic plate lights and fog lights too with hid's as well.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
Replacing original light bulbs when they burn out is normal and part of life.
If you replace them with the lowest quality, cheapest bulb you can find....you probably got what you paid for.
If you have gauges that are screwy, make sure the bolts for the alternator are tight and the 2 ground straps on the engine and trans are good and have clean connections on the body and the engine/trans, bolts and everything.
Attach a voltmeter and watch what it is doing as you drive around. If voltage to goes over 15V, that's a sign something is wrong.
Ever have the SRS light come on and not have any codes for it? That might be another clue.
HID, or Halogen headlights? Huge difference.
Don't touch the glass of the bulb. The extreme heat combined with the oils from your skin will cause the glass to melt and the bulb to go bad.
Halogen? Those high watt 110w bulbs don't last long and can overload the circuit and socket connections.
If wiggling the connector makes the light work again, unplug it and see if the connector looks burned or melted.
HIDs? Internet, discount, made in China? Junk.
Regular light bulbs? Look at what you bought. DangerZone normally sells the absolute cheapest bulbs they can source. Made in China.
Most of the dash lights operate on the same dimmer circuit. If someone hacked the radio install wrong, they can burn out the circuits on the back of the gauge cluster circuit board and dash illumination may never work again.
The individual switches have replaceable bulbs too.
Replaceable bulbs in the HVAC control panel.
But none will work right if the cluster is damaged.
If you replace them with the lowest quality, cheapest bulb you can find....you probably got what you paid for.
If you have gauges that are screwy, make sure the bolts for the alternator are tight and the 2 ground straps on the engine and trans are good and have clean connections on the body and the engine/trans, bolts and everything.
Attach a voltmeter and watch what it is doing as you drive around. If voltage to goes over 15V, that's a sign something is wrong.
Ever have the SRS light come on and not have any codes for it? That might be another clue.
HID, or Halogen headlights? Huge difference.
Don't touch the glass of the bulb. The extreme heat combined with the oils from your skin will cause the glass to melt and the bulb to go bad.
Halogen? Those high watt 110w bulbs don't last long and can overload the circuit and socket connections.
If wiggling the connector makes the light work again, unplug it and see if the connector looks burned or melted.
HIDs? Internet, discount, made in China? Junk.
Regular light bulbs? Look at what you bought. DangerZone normally sells the absolute cheapest bulbs they can source. Made in China.
Most of the dash lights operate on the same dimmer circuit. If someone hacked the radio install wrong, they can burn out the circuits on the back of the gauge cluster circuit board and dash illumination may never work again.
The individual switches have replaceable bulbs too.
Replaceable bulbs in the HVAC control panel.
But none will work right if the cluster is damaged.
#3
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Re: Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
It could be a wiring problem... something might have been wired wrong which is messing around with everything... but at the same time... HID's are a bad idea everyone argues with me about this... I straight up said in order to have a good set of HID's you are looking at spending about 200 dollars for a good one... those cheap ebay xentec is garbage! they got out quick! I am assuming whoever installed everything for you did a bad job to having this many blow outs on lights
#4
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ezone--- my srs light has been on scinse the day i bought the car.I would think it just meant a air bag problem.
markx916--- this started happening when i had my car fully stock, but the cluster milage light started to go off after i got my stereo installed
markx916--- this started happening when i had my car fully stock, but the cluster milage light started to go off after i got my stereo installed
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
You can't tell if there is now more than one problem, or a new problem...because that light is just on all the time.
I'd guess it might have the typical drivers buckle code, just because that has been a real common issue for a long time on these cars.
Now picture this:
IF you had taken care of the SRS issue when you first got the car instead of ignoring it, and there had been no other problems recognized by the SRS system prior to now...
The SRS control unit is programmed to turn the SRS warning light on when the system voltage rises above about 15.5v or so (did not look up the spec) and will leave NO codes if it does this.
(System voltage that high might contribute to short light bulb life.)
Just a diagnostic clue here, that's all. Since your light has been "on forever", nobody can use this as a clue.
HTH
#6
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That would mean there has been at least one unresolved problem since before you bought it.
You can't tell if there is now more than one problem, or a new problem...because that light is just on all the time.
I'd guess it might have the typical drivers buckle code, just because that has been a real common issue for a long time on these cars.
Now picture this:
IF you had taken care of the SRS issue when you first got the car instead of ignoring it, and there had been no other problems recognized by the SRS system prior to now...
The SRS control unit is programmed to turn the SRS warning light on when the system voltage rises above about 15.5v or so (did not look up the spec) and will leave NO codes if it does this.
(System voltage that high might contribute to short light bulb life.)
Just a diagnostic clue here, that's all. Since your light has been "on forever", nobody can use this as a clue.
HTH
You can't tell if there is now more than one problem, or a new problem...because that light is just on all the time.
I'd guess it might have the typical drivers buckle code, just because that has been a real common issue for a long time on these cars.
Now picture this:
IF you had taken care of the SRS issue when you first got the car instead of ignoring it, and there had been no other problems recognized by the SRS system prior to now...
The SRS control unit is programmed to turn the SRS warning light on when the system voltage rises above about 15.5v or so (did not look up the spec) and will leave NO codes if it does this.
(System voltage that high might contribute to short light bulb life.)
Just a diagnostic clue here, that's all. Since your light has been "on forever", nobody can use this as a clue.
HTH
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Fix this problem, you know, my bulbs burning out so quick. where should i start? 2nite i noticed one of my lic plate led bulbs flickering on n off, so i switched it with the other one, but it kept on flickering till it turned off.
Before puting a new led bulb, do i lubricate LEDs as well?
Also this morning i pumped gas, then my speedometer while car is idle it stayed on 45 mph, then as i drove it will go up, but it will stay on 45 mph when car is stopped onstead of 0, i have had this problem on and off scinse last year, everything on my cluster works and marks fine, accept my milage light. so when i got home, turned car off and needle stayed on 45 mph, then i played with the ignition switch, on and off, didnt turn engine on, only stereo will go on, and every time i will switch it back off the needle would drop 10 mph, did the same thing over n over again, switch on switch off till needle finally dropped to 0, now speedometer marks normal.
Has any one on here had this problem b4? Or has any idea what this is?
obviously a electrical problem. ezone? anyone??
#9
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Re: Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
Its really hard to tell just from typing it all out sorry... I would just recommend taking it to a dealership or something and try to ask them to figure it out, I personally never had this problem besides using ebay head lights back in the days when I had my 07 Civic where all the LEDs and bulbs would constantly go out (every 3 - 5 months or so something would go out on me). Problem was never solved. I assumed it was just cheap ebay garbage but for you its hard to tell I would just ask a mechanic or a dealership is my best bet. Sorry cant be much of help here
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Its really hard to tell just from typing it all out sorry... I would just recommend taking it to a dealership or something and try to ask them to figure it out, I personally never had this problem besides using ebay head lights back in the days when I had my 07 Civic where all the LEDs and bulbs would constantly go out (every 3 - 5 months or so something would go out on me). Problem was never solved. I assumed it was just cheap ebay garbage but for you its hard to tell I would just ask a mechanic or a dealership is my best bet. Sorry cant be much of help here
guess stealership it is.
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Bulbs constanly burning out...quick
Fix this problem, you know, my bulbs burning out so quick.
Big difference, and if you can't tell the difference then I may not be able to help you.
----------------
License lights:
Does a CORRECT light bulb #194 work?
Do any other trunklid lights also flicker?
Raise the trunklid up with all the lights turned on, and watch the lights. Do they go out or come on?
They tend to break one wire in the lid harness near the hinge. You need to do some testing in order to figure out if this could be the problem. There is a TSB about how to repair this if it is the problem.
------------------------------
Before puting a new led bulb, do i lubricate LEDs as well?
If you think you need to.
Use Silicone Dielectric Grease. Nothing else.
but it will stay on 45 mph when car is stopped onstead of 0,
Try a needle sweep test, see what happens.
Clicky: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2908290
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Ok, so i ran my own needle test, idk wat does that suppose to do or what it means but i was able to do it, my needles ran normal, at the end some icons will blink, like battery, brake. trunk, low gas etc,
my gears will blink diffrenlty though, they had a pattern, it will start 4rm D, then blink D3, then D2. everytime each gear will light up it will go back off. P R N never turned on.
I also did a SRS reset, by pulling out the yellow plug thats under the steering wheel, insert a paper clip, and did the procedures it shows you on a video i saw on youtube, but my SRS light will come back on,
so im guessing i can not reset the light because there is a problem with the SRS system? maybe my car was involved in a accident in the past and they did not fix it completely? airbags?
What should i do next?
By the way, it never said ERROR on my lcd screen where it marks the milage. Does this mean my cluster is is still good?? or do i replace cluster? my light that lights up the milage never turned back on, so im guessing its just the bulb, so im gonna try 2 replace themm all.
what do u guys think??
my gears will blink diffrenlty though, they had a pattern, it will start 4rm D, then blink D3, then D2. everytime each gear will light up it will go back off. P R N never turned on.
I also did a SRS reset, by pulling out the yellow plug thats under the steering wheel, insert a paper clip, and did the procedures it shows you on a video i saw on youtube, but my SRS light will come back on,
so im guessing i can not reset the light because there is a problem with the SRS system? maybe my car was involved in a accident in the past and they did not fix it completely? airbags?
What should i do next?
By the way, it never said ERROR on my lcd screen where it marks the milage. Does this mean my cluster is is still good?? or do i replace cluster? my light that lights up the milage never turned back on, so im guessing its just the bulb, so im gonna try 2 replace themm all.
what do u guys think??
Last edited by esegangster; 02-17-2013 at 09:18 AM.
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