Rep Power: 347

What do you guys know about Audiocontrol x-overs? I have read before that they are good, but I would like to get your opinions?

I would basically be looking for two things in an x-over: infrasonic filter and a minimum of an 18 db per octave crossover (perferably a 24 DB per octive). Which model would be the best for a 2-3 channel system (2-3 sets of RCAs I guess I could say it)? I may not get this right now, but if I ever get high quality subs I would want better filters then the Harrison Lab F-mods that I am using now.

Also, I would like to know how difficult instillation is of one of these?

 
Rep Power: 338

installation is a snap, but generally is more suited for the system that only uses one set of RCA outs. split into 3 sets after the crossover.

makes use of an EQ alot easier that way, as well.

this is for the non-in dash units. ive been pretty happy with mine, the tunability is paramount, if your not against passive crossovers, than audiocontrol makes a damn fine product.

im not familiar enough with the in dash units, but if htey are anything liek the clarion units, its got the front/rear fader on the unit itself, as well as subwoofer control. youll have to jump on the AC website to confirm that tho.

I personally have the 6xs, which has 3 inputs, 4 outputs, two of which are bandpass and two of which are highpass. i paid $214 retail, of which i personally feel was money well spent.

for all the units, install is a snap. the units have a snap on power connector, so you dont have to strain next to the unit itself to get your power ground and remote.

if yrou looking for a unit that has 3 sets of ins, and paramount tunability, with a majority of 24 dB slops, check out the 6xs. a darn fine unit.

 
Rep Power: 347

TY WR!

I was thinking about the 3XS or 4XS if they suite my set-up.

I guess I just don't see why I should upgrade my JBL amp for features when it has all the power I will ever need. I was thinking about an X-over because it will give all the items that I want that are missing from my amp...and I can avoid buying a high priced amp.

 
Rep Power: 347

I decided with going with the 6XS after I looked it up I didn't understand what you meant by the whole passive crossover thing, but I understood after I read the manual for the product. Also, the bass control **** seems cool. I figure I can put that next to wear the wannabe cigarette lighter is. Does that thing control bass at a specific frequecy, or the overall sub output? Also, Will setting the subsonic at 20hrtz be difficult?

Will 8 gauge power work with it? I have 16 feet of 8 gauge, and I was hoping to be cheap and just use that

 
Rep Power: 338

8 gauge is WAY overkill, 16 is all you need for it. 20 Hz might be tough, the lower frequency you wanna go, the harder it is to find resistors... i know they exist tho!

might be tough to cram that bass **** where the cig lighter is, but im sur eyoull manage!

the 6xs also comes with 4 independant line drivers, the "bass ****" is an atennuator for the subwoofer line driver, -24 to 0 dB, i believe.

 
Rep Power: 347

Thanks for the info...I look forward to getting it and getting everything set-up.

I really don't understand the whole resistor thing (obviously it is not something that can be bought at Radio Shack or Fry's), but I guess i am lucky that I live in LA because I have a lot of places I can look at.

 
Rep Power: 338

actually, a bunch of frequencies can be found at radioshack, i just dont think 20 Hz can.... i had to go to an electronics supply house for anything below 50 Hz in my car, i think, its been awhile since ive built a new module.......

 
Rep Power: 347

Fry's usually has a lot of stuff like that so i will check there and the 'shack too.

I guess I would need to build one 20 (infrasonic at 18 dbs) and two 80s. Is there any difference between making a high pass and a low pass module? Anywayz, I downloaded the DIY module sheet from Audiocontrol so hopefully that will help me out.


The big question I have right now is if I can do this: If I use a 16 gauge power wire for the x-over, can I use my two way distrubution block for my amps and stick in that 16 gauge wire with one of my four gauge wires. Is there any reason this may not work? I just don't want to run 16 gauge wire all the way to my battery if I can avoid that.

THx

 
Rep Power: 338

nope, all modules are the same! there IS a difference between a 24 dB module, and an 18 dB module. but since they all cost the same, I make all my modules 24 dB, becuase they fit in the 18 dB module spots. but not vice versa

and yep fonto, it might look a little ugly if yoru d blocks are in view, but that works just fine!

 
Rep Power: 347

Alright, Thanks for answering all of my questions

My d block will not be visable if everything works out how I want it to. I am going to make an amp board very similiar to RegularJoe's, and hopefully most of my wiring will not be visable except at the connections. The D-block will be on the back side of the board between the sub box.

Man, I found One local Audiocontrol dealer that acytually has the modules that I need (they are the onlyone listed on the AC website within 10 miles that even has any modules)...but they are gonna gaffle me on the price. Oh well.

Anyway, Thx again.

 
Rep Power: 338

bah, they are pretty cheap to build anyways

 
Rep Power: 347

Well, I went to the shop and they had one of each all the way down to 20hrtz. I was happy to find 20 hrtz, but they only had one 80hrtz...and I needed two. It was the only shop in my area that had Any. They had five 70Hrtz though, so I bought two.

For anyone experienced with Quart PSD 216s, with they handle being crossover at 70hrtz okay IYO? I would have 150 watts going to each, but I will most def have the gain down.

I figured 80 would be an optimal place to crossover my subs to my mids, but would 70 hrtz actually be better? Maybe 70 might be better because my subs are tuned so low, I just wonder if the quarts can handle 70hrtz at high volume?

 
Rep Power: 338

im sure youll find out shortly if itll sound good or not

 
Rep Power: 347

true...

 
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my 2xs owns. i got it on ebay for like 40 bucks, and at first i used it as a sub crossover, now its getting switched over as the crossover for my component set. 1 highpass channel and 1 bandpass channel. for 40 bucks, oh yeah it was a good buy.

 
Rep Power: 329

My PSD's are crossed at 110 hz. If I go much lower they pop when I really crank it. I have 100 more watts going to mine than you do though, so just experiment with what sounds good in yours. You might not get them as loud as you like though.

 
Rep Power: 347

Why do they sell modules at Fry's that are the exact same as the Audiocontrol ones for 60 cents!?!? ...except they don't have audiocontrol written over the product numbers

Anywayz, they only have certain ones, and I found some at Mouser.com

...but they had everything but the 80 hrtz ones.


.60 cents man, .60 cents

...and they retail for 15 dollars!!!

Check out this 16-pin 68 kiloohm resistor

This would basically be the equivalent of a 106 hrtz audiocontrol 24 db x-over module.

The only one that I could not find was an 80hrtz one.

 
Rep Power: 347

Okay, I have another Audiocontrol question. I ended up getting hte 6xs. I installed it today, but I was gonna wait until I got my new amp to test it out, but I decided to test it out today. When I turned it on everything worked fine...the power light, the sound, the line drivers etc worked great...but the lights that indicates the voltage of each output did not seem to be working.

One big problem happend during installation. When I finished installing under the passengers seat I went to put the seat in...then I slid the seat back and I saw that a couple of the inputs came out. When I looked down at the inputs one looked like it broke of, but it was still barely connected. It was the spring that ripped the RCA out of the inputs. So I took the x-over apart, went to the second layer and soldered the bottom of the input back in. It seemed solid, but it is still a lil loose, but I got it to work right and stick.

Anyway, when I openned the thing I don't thing I did any damage to the gain lights, but maybe I did. Any idea what could be wrong, or what I should look for to fix it?

If anyone else has an audicontrol crossover, How bright are the voltage lights (that indicate voltage output)?? Could it just be that I am Mr. Magoo and I just can't see the light...and that those lights just aren't bright? Is there a switch or something for them? The power light works fine though and is bright).

anywayz

 
Rep Power: 338

it takes alot of voltage to make those lights go, i think they measure input voltage, not output, not sure tho?

i have to turn my radio up fairly far before they start lighting up

 
Rep Power: 347

Ty, you just kept me from ripping my hair out trying to figure out what was not a problem...especially after i just spent 7 hours in my car completely re-wiring my set-up and taking my subs out.

 
Rep Power: 0

try it on a sub channel and play a sine wave, should light up...

 
Rep Power: 347

...yeah, that's a good idea. I will try that next week after i put everything back in my car.