Maximum Amp Draw
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: California
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Maximum Amp Draw
Hi all,
I was wondering at what level our alternator begins to start hurting in terms of being able to support the extra power needed to power amps? Right now I have a 80x2 amp and was considering adding another along with a sub, but don't want to add a capacitor, heavy duty battery, or anything that will drain my stock alternator. How high could I go in terms of amp power?
I was wondering at what level our alternator begins to start hurting in terms of being able to support the extra power needed to power amps? Right now I have a 80x2 amp and was considering adding another along with a sub, but don't want to add a capacitor, heavy duty battery, or anything that will drain my stock alternator. How high could I go in terms of amp power?
i boogie for the raindrops
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Jackson, Mississippi
Rep Power: 0 depends on a lot of factors, mainly what you listen to and how loud you listen to it. from what i hear from you, youll never ever have a problem. theres a few of us running near 2k rms on full stock setups. i myself ran at 1800 or so for a few weeks with no prob.
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From: bay area, california
Rep Power: 338 your alternator is "hurting" stock. get on yrou driveway at night with the headlights on, then turn on teh A/C. see the dimming?
now that we established that yoru alternator theoretically cant take any amount of draw, in reality, minus dimming, what can the alternator handle?
if you listen to yoru music in a responsible manner, you cna support over 3000 rms in your car. that is an approimate amount, considering class D efficiency alone. you cna possibly support 4000 rms or more that wya.
realistically, class a/b power (amp for your regualr speakers) is farr less efficient. and most likely far smaller.
I currently run 2750 rms in my car. I have tried both with and without a capacitor. thats 1350 rms of class a/b power, and im approximating 1400 rms of class D power.
granted, i have had alternator problems in the past, but spending half an hour looking into Iit, i have always found a problem with the wiring, and not becuase of a problem with too much current draw.
I have had this much power in my vehicle for months now, and considering this amount of time, I believe it is safe to say that our cars are perfectly capable of handling this kind of draw for responsible listening.
if you are the kind of guy who block roks everywhere, maxed volume every time you are in teh vehicle, expect your powerlimits to be a bit smaller.
but considering you ahve an 80x2 amplifier now, you are WAY fine for MASSIVE future upgrades, stereo wise.
as long as the dimming doesnt bug you
now that we established that yoru alternator theoretically cant take any amount of draw, in reality, minus dimming, what can the alternator handle?
if you listen to yoru music in a responsible manner, you cna support over 3000 rms in your car. that is an approimate amount, considering class D efficiency alone. you cna possibly support 4000 rms or more that wya.
realistically, class a/b power (amp for your regualr speakers) is farr less efficient. and most likely far smaller.
I currently run 2750 rms in my car. I have tried both with and without a capacitor. thats 1350 rms of class a/b power, and im approximating 1400 rms of class D power.
granted, i have had alternator problems in the past, but spending half an hour looking into Iit, i have always found a problem with the wiring, and not becuase of a problem with too much current draw.
I have had this much power in my vehicle for months now, and considering this amount of time, I believe it is safe to say that our cars are perfectly capable of handling this kind of draw for responsible listening.
if you are the kind of guy who block roks everywhere, maxed volume every time you are in teh vehicle, expect your powerlimits to be a bit smaller.
but considering you ahve an 80x2 amplifier now, you are WAY fine for MASSIVE future upgrades, stereo wise.
as long as the dimming doesnt bug you
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