NitehawkVTEC

I kjnow there are some products that can be found. I have heard that fatmat is just some sort of roofing product? i think, haha, maybe.

I just want to sound deaden my car a bit today, and do it for a low cost. I will probably sell soon so yea. why spend the money on an actual deadener?

If anyone has any suggestions get back to me ASAP!

madmax

i would like to know as well !
I want to do it to my car but dont have the kind of cash lying around.
is there any other products or tricks that we dont know about, help would be apreciated!
Thx in advance!

madmax

Please guys!

Help is really needed here.

Why dont we do a "all everyone need to know about sound deadening" thread or diy / informational sesion.....

any info is needed to make the ride as soft as a Lexus / Benz!

Hints for killing rattles tooooo!
thx!

ZSKCivic01

Just go with fatmat, it really makes a difference. I have a double layer in the trunk of my civic and it really makes the sound bounce right back at you. My rear end still rattles like crazy though, mainly my bumper and taillights for some reason.

CivicFerio

i just bought a rubberized undercoating spray at wallmart(5.48 i think-i bought 2).. i'm going to use it for my door panels(it rattles alot).. whiterabbit said it deadens the rattle... i don't know if it's going to help for the metal(but i have a dynamat around the speakers though).. i'll try it tomorrow as soon as it stops raining.. maybe i'll put some on the tirewell too....

madmax

CivicFerio,
let us know how that sounds, and if it helped any.

IMO it sounds like a good idea.........maybe we should ask MOWHAWK, he always seem to know better. (I'm not dissing , he's our BOY when it comes to ICE )

CivicFerio

ok.... it should take me about 2 days though

i don't know about that.. but ludlam and WR have always helped me with my ice questions... so....

madmax

Yup,

Props to those two guys too....(ludlam + WR ) !!!!!!!

NitehawkVTEC

I know Mohawkboom knows the answer to my question... lol.

orion_squall

hi,

so how is the result of rubberized undercoating?

can we apply that at the "inside" of the plastic door panel? (inside mean the side face outside of car)

or we have to apply that to metal part of door? (the part exposed after the plastic panel is taken off)

thanks

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

FATMAT is good, RAAMmat is good and has a good price, Dynamat is overpriced (if you do get this get the extreme), you can always go with brown bread, but RAAMmat is cheap and works as good as any, heres the site...
RAAM Mat

nunzio42

iTrader: (4)

For cheap deadining. Just go to walmart and buy 2 bags of poly fiber. and cram that stuff everywhere you can and as thick as u can. The bags cost under 5 each....and if u dont want it anymore (reslae of car) jsut take it out! Trust me it works.....did it in my first car.

VNlilMAN

iTrader: (7)

i used expanding foam for my trunk lid.. works like a charm and doesnt weigh much =)

WhiteRabbit

theres this stuff you can get at home depot, called storm guard... costs $60 for like 200 sq feet.






dont get it, its the most awful deadener ever. i mean, it would be great, if it actually stuck, but even applying under the most extreme heat (i used a blowtorch) it still delaminates after a couple months. rolling lasts a couple days, heatgun youll be lucky for a couple weeks. and rolling upsidedown itll last mere hours!

so for sure the only deadener home depot carries is the expanding foam.

Bellz

iTrader: (5)

Another alternative is the Peal and Seal at Lowe's/Home depot. It's also made for roofing, but it sticks like a **** to metal.

orion_squall

can someone explain what is expanding foam?

WhiteRabbit

its this stuff that comes in a can, you spray it out of a nozzle like a drinking straw on a can of whipped cream.

you spray it wherever metal can vibrate agasint metal, and itll stop that post haste.

to preserve mass SPL, you can also spray it in vast locations, like the area between yoru quarter panel and interior quarter panel, and it will help to keep sound it, leave road noise out, AND keep the paneling from losing precious SPL.

orion_squall

mmm, then the foam is pretty thick then...do you think it is really a good solution?

and what do we use o glue on the original layer on the door metal panel?

orion_squall

hi,

it seems that expending foam is a good alternative.

however, I have power window, power door etc. If I apply expending foam INTO the door panel gap (the dool panel is actaully hallow with 2 bars in it) will the expending foam affect the electric circuit or affect some mechanical latchs in side?

thanks

orion_squall

hi,

finally I remove the sedan door panel.

According to me, expending foam cannot be the deadener alternative for people who have power door and power window.

I see there are many dynamic mechanism in between the 2 plate of metal part of door panel. Expending foam would disturbe their movement, unless you you cover some little part, but then deadener effect won't be good.

I tried a bit undercoating on the back of plastic door panel, but when it dries, it is sticky. So I am not too sure it iw a good alternative as well.

Mystic3030

If you used rubberized undercoating it should dry hard like a peice of rubber....not sticky. Perhaps you didnt wait long enough?

Aznnp77

iTrader: (3)

I have 5 feet of parts express sound deadener on my lid and 5 feet of dynamat behind the cloth in my trunk. It still rattled, so I was reading up about the Rubberized Uncercoating. You can get it from Wal Mart, its called Marhyde and costs like $2.35 a can. I used 1 can and some of the second. It helps a little bit, but I still get rattles under the car. Weather Stripping on the rim of the trunk helped as well. I used some of that pink stuff u put in the walls, kinda like polyfill and eventually took it out cuz it was just damn ugly and I don't think it helped much. You don't want all this crap sticking out of ur trunk lid when u open it.

orion_squall

undercoating is pretty nasty. It is alsphalt base, and it is sticky when it is not dry (perhapes).

and it stinkes.

however, I can see it as a nice deadener if used properly.

WhiteRabbit

you dont use foam in the door, you use it in the trunklid and or sidepanels. would be GREAT for the doors too, but you dnever get yrou window down for sure!

you use spray on undercoating for the doors. smell goes away overtime, you can stick the nozzle in between the cracks in the door frame to get it on the outer skin. dont forget to cover the window, you dont want overspray getting on teh windows!


dynamat extreme can bounce waves back to the speaker, its a fantastic marketing ploy by dynamat.

ive noticed trying to get a matting on the door skin, however, its hard to get yrou arms in there to apply it and get teh matting physically in there! theres only so much area you can reach with a roller...

orion_squall

hi,

what exact glue (like gum) did honda use to stick on the plastic sheet on the metal part of the door exposed after he door panel is removed?

orion_squall

and I find out the the source of door rattle is acraully from the thin plastic sheet, so if I remove it and put the door panel back, will I get bad result over time? like moisture come in, etc?

what is the use of the plastic sheet?

thanks

orion_squall

One of the most critical things you can do for a car is to sound proof it. Whether you have a Mercedes Benz, or a Hyundai Excel, all cars can benefit from extra sound proofing (especially the Hyundai). The first thing to understand about sound proofing is that it can never be accomplished in a car. The important thing is that you can reduce the amount of external noise, and vibrations. Sound proofing will make any car feel like a million dollars. A quieter ride, less distraction, and an overall more comfortable environment are what you can expect when you start sound proofing your car. For car audio enthusiasts, this topic is critical. Nothing will lose points faster, or spoil your sound more than a resonating panel, or vibrating frame member.

Sound Proofing starts with some means of damping. A number of products are available for this, and they all have various degrees of effectiveness. The best results are always obtained from using a combination of these products. There are mats, sprays, foams, and insulation available from a number of manufacturers

Mats are usually either Styrene-Butyadine-Rubber or asphaltic sheets backed with an adhesive of some type (although other materials are used in some cases). Installing mats in your vehicle is a simple way to reduce vibration, and is effective as well. The way mats work is that they are used to cover panels. The material they are made of absorbs vibrations in the panels, and turns them into heat, or it may simply lower the resonant frequency of the panel. Mats can also be placed between panels to reduce the amount of vibration between the two panels when they are in close contact. Many times, the mats will also have a metal foil backing to improve the heat resistance of the matting (thus allowing you to use it in an engine compartment). The matting also adds weight to a panel, reducing it's tendency to vibrate in the first place. Some of the more popular mats are Dynamat and Road Kill, but there are alternatives. One of those alternatives is a material known as Ice-Guard. Ice Guard is normally used as a roofing material, but is essentially the same material as commercial mats, except that it incorporates an asphalt material for water proofing. Ice-Guard is much cheaper than the other commercial mats, up to 80% less. It has to be bought in large amounts, however, and minimum purchases are usually 80 to 100 dollars for an entire car, compared to $400 using Dynamat or Road Kill. Ice-Guard also has to be aired out for a couple of days after installation before you can put your interior back in, and it is recommended that you spread some activated charcoal powder or baking soda before laying your carpet back down over it.

Sprays are also used for damping. These sprays normally come in a professional can, which require a compressor and paintgun to apply, but many companies are starting to market aerosol cans of sound deadener spray. The spray is often used in places where matting would either be too difficult, or would add too much weight/bulk. Door panels are the most common application for sprays, as well as highly irregular crevices (like inside kickpanels). Sprays are suitable for large panels as well, but they tend to be messy, and require taping/masking off of upholstery and windows.

Foams come in two forms: Sheets of foam, and foam sprays. The sheets of foam are used much like mats are; They are laid over panels to reduce and absorb vibration. Unlike mats, which absorb the vibration and convert it to heat energy, foam sheets disperse the vibrations throughout, reducing its total energy. Foam sprays are used to fill in crevices. As they dry (or rather, cure), they expand slightly, pressing against the nearby panels. The individual cells help to disperse energy away from the vibrating panel, and absorb them. Foams can be expensive as well, and there is a low cost alternative here, as well. The first is Styrofoam©, which can be obtained in a spray can. Styrofoam© is the brand name for the polystyrene foam we are all familiar with (and somewhat annoyed by at times). The fumes given off by Styrofoam© are noxious, and many communities have laws banning its use due to environmental concerns. Another alternative is insulating foams like Great Stuff©, which is used in home construction. Great Stuff© is cheap, fireproof when cured, and readily available at any hardware store for about three dollars a can. Great Stuff© is also shapeable when it cures, and can be used to smooth sharp corners. The downside to Great Stuff©, like Ice Guard, is that it is messy. Once Great Stuff© is sprayed on upholstery, your clothes, your skin, etc, it's all over. You hands will be stiff and sticky for days, if not weeks, and your clothes are forever ruined. Great Stuff© also expands voraciously, so spray it carefully.

Finally, there is insulation. Jute is the most common insulation. It is laid under carpets in both cars and houses, and is basically a thick mat of fibers which absorb sound. Though less effective than the other methods, it adds a plushness to carpets, and has very good thermal insulation. Micro Jute is recommended, because it's much thinner than jute, and has about the same level of effectiveness. Jute or Micro Jute can be gotten from a number of manufacturers, and is available at any carpet supply store.

When using these methods, you will invariably use at least two, if not more. The one opportunity I had to sound deaden someone's car for them (I did it as a favor, since it wound up costing them about $250), was a 1986 Monte Carlo SS, which took me three days. I used Ice-Guard all around the trunk, floors, side panels, rear deck, doors, and roof. Great Stuff© foam was used in the less accessible A/B/C pillars, kick panels, inside bottom of the doors, and rear fender wells. I used the foam to spot a few places in the dash as well, such as the blower housing. I finished up with a layer of microjute on the floor, rear deck, and lining the floor of the trunk. Some Dynamat was used on trim panels because it was less messy. The reduction was incredible. The guy for whom I did this first remarked that he wasn't sure his engine was started because he did not hear it. He was also surprised at the quietness of the cabin, and compared it to his wife's Lexus, which he said may not even have been as quiet. During driving, we noticed a "whooshing" sound, which we traced to a defective door seal. We replaced the seal, and tightened up the windows on day 3, and the car was as quiet as a tomb at highway speeds, with only the sound of his monster exhaust making it through. This car was a whim, for me, but it secured in my mind the importance of sound proofing to a car

orion_squall

DO you think AUTOMOTIVE GOOP would hold storm guard on the door panel? And how about ICE-guard, is it the same as storm guard?


thanks

dups

I know this topic is just slightly old, but I figured it would be better to bring this one back up as opposed to posting a new one.... That being said...

What is the main difference between Dynamat Extreme, FatMat eXtreme, Rammat, and brown bread? I've heard some of them stink and some don't and stuff like that. So which one is the best? Does dynamat have ANY extra benefits at all that might make it worth paying a little more? Or is FatMat equal in every aspect to dynamat? Thanks!

WhiteRabbit

usually the tarpaper looses its smell after a week or so.

or if you are like my buddy, youll put two REALLY strong airfresheners in teh car and its gona after a day and a ahlf.

and NOTHING will make stormguard stick, do NOT use it for any reason. its a waste of $60.

buying a gram of cocaine would be a better use of that money, seriously. I think you can get almost as much edeadv2 for the price of one roll of stormguard, anywas!