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alright, the actual building is not going to be a problem, it is layed out and everything, just needs to be cut, which i will be doing this weekend, using my new roto-zip that i bought today. my question is, since it will be out of mdf and will be replacing the existing trunk floor, i was planning on re attaching the carpet to it, except where there will be cut-outs for the window where you can see through to the amp, but wont be able to get it out through there... anyway, what type of glue should i use to attach the carpet, i was thinking 3m spray adhesive, but i want to use the best, so i am turning to the guru's of ICE. what would you reccommend? also, could you tell me where i might could obtain something like a 1/2" wide strip of chrome trim so i can outline the windows with it? i want this to look really clean, and was thinking this would be the best route to go for that. and my last question, is since the amp will be getting pretty warm, how much room/ how big of a space would i need to properly cool it, the amp itself is a JL 500/1 mono D-Class? i was thinking a 1"X10" opening on the long sides, and a 1"X 6" on the ends. i will also be putting neon in the actual amp rack/enclosure to light it up, so would i need extra ventalation to account for the heat off the bulb, if there is any? thanks in advance, and as soon as my digi cam attachment for my cell phone gets here, i will be taking pics, unless i can borrow one before then.

 
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whoops, i forgot one thing. how thick of lexan should i use to avoid a vibration/ rattle from this, i will be routering (sp?) around where the windows will be going to make them flush with the top, but i hate any type of rattle, so i want to make sure i get this right...

 
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you pay so much for spray adhesive, why not get contact cement? you pay half the price, the same great stuff (better imo) minus the spraycan, and costs less.

 
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contact cement eh? i don't really want to deal with the mess, but if it'd be the best route to go, then that's fine, any suggestions on how to evenly spread it, i have many things such as paddles and stuff for sheet rocking and that kind of stuff. i also have a duct board rubber, the things you use when tinting windows that i could use. i just dont want any lumps or anything. thanks for the advice rabbit, do you have any suggestions for the other questions i had? i am open to all advice, cause i want this to look really clean and professional. i have built things such as this before, as well as i used to work in a cabinet shop, so i have access to any tool i'll need, and have a good deal of experiance doing this. i am trying to showcase my work so i could possibly get a second job building things for the local car audio shop (s), such as sub boxes, etc. i have built many sub boxes and all, so i know what i am doing, i just want this to really be my best work, 1. cause its my car, and 2. cause i want to showcase my work. thanks again

 
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regular disposable bristle brush to spread contact cement, no foam brush, no squeegee. and no lumps [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

as to the best way to install plexy, IMO, especially with teh carpet you are using, id do it like this:



its really easy, and looks nice, too, espcially for such a large window

 
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actually, my window is not going to be that big. and it's not going to be a square, i'm not gonna say the shape yet, cause i don't want to give it away, but it's not going to be that big, i can promise you that, so i should be able to recess the glass with no problem, and not have to worry about it, but in case i have to do it as the pic you showed has, how would i attach that to the back of the mdf? i was thinking something like an epoxy or silicone, or a liquid nail, along with some 1/2" screws about every 6-8 inches, is this about right?
-rabbit, is that your trunk?

 
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drill holes, screw halfway into mdf. thats how this is done. not really a loadbearing structure, but it works, and i like it, tho the owner of this car doesnt [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]

anytime I talk abotu a buddy of mine who runs a single IDmax in an accord who took first in triplepoint usac competition, metered 141.7 with 900 rms, blah blah blah, thats the trunk. very little custom work, but the install is clean, simple, and it sounds great.

 
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Seriously. If it's make out of wood. . Use this stuff called Fabri-tac, you can get it at an arts/crafts store. It's in a clear bottle with a red tip. I used it on my speaker box with felt and it holds soo good you couldn't get it off without tearing the felt. Of course my application, keep in mind, was felt on wood. So I'm not sure how something else, say, 1/4" carpeting on fiberglass would work out, but good luck. Just an idea.