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Are the W7's really worth the price difference between the W6v2s' and the W7's?

what amp would u guys use to push 2 W6V2's they are DVC 4ohm
i was looking at Rockford Fosgate 1000W amp and the Rockford Fosgate 1500 watt amp, but i will take any amp suggestions into consideration

thanks for the help guys

 
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i would say the fosgate 1000 would be nice...what are the power ratings on those jl's? the jl's supposedly can take about 1.5x their rated power but i figure if u get the 1000 u will really be pushing about 1100 or so. that would be really nice to put on those subs. i would get either the BD1000, jbl 1200.1, Memphis ST1000D (amp i am going to use to push 2 kicker L5 10s) or some of the other Dclass amps...give me a price range and i will try to find you a good deal!

 
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I would go for the new US Amps DE-1000. At 4ohm you can do around 800w. Or you could be ballzy and drop it to 1ohm to push around 1600w.
edit: you can pick it up for $500 too.

 
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if you have a 12W7 or 10W7 and expect it to last don't push 1k watt into it.. we blew a 12W7 at my shop with a JL 1000.1.. and those thing push exactly 1000 watts. If rockford is truthfull in their birth certificates then you'll kill a W7 with a power 1000. The 12W7 is only rated at 750 watts RMS, the 10W7 is rated at 500 watts RMS. Now if you're planning on doing a pair of W7s then you'll be ok.. but not with a single. As for the W6s... they are only rated at 400 watts a piece and again 1,000 watts would be a little much.. i don't know about you but i'm not gonna risk destroying an investment like that by pushing too much power into it... that's just dumb if you ask me.

 
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You don't have to run full power on the amp, though. In my opinion, it's always good to have some headroom to account for upgrades.

 
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If your that worried about sound quality to shell out the money for W7's or even W6v.2's then a class D amp is the wrong way to go...they have pretty ****-poor damping ability..enough so that in a quality setup you can hear the difference right away.

A good powerful class a/b amp is the way to go. It'll draw more power, but it will notcably sound better...there will be less speaker overhang, which will result in cleaner output and even more SPL (.3-.5db's) Because the amplifier won't be wasting as much of it's power trying to stop and reverse the cones movement..but instead will use more power to actuall have the cone moving.

Class D amps basically have a set of breaks like a stock civic..they'll stop the cone...but nowehere near as quick as say a dodge Viper would...

Between the 2 subs..unless your car is extremely deadened you'll never hear a difference between the 2. Thw W7's however are capable of more SPL...given enough power..

 
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Dude....the owner of the car audio shop I go to has two 10W7's and two 1000/1 JL amps and he's been running it for 3 months like that....no problems....maybe you got a defective sub? The 10W7's RMS is 500, peak 1000 watts, and the 12 is 750 RMS, peak 1500...

I'm running two 500/1's to two 12W3v'2s, which have an RMS of 300, peak 500....and I have no problems with them.....maybe you guys wired your stuff wrong Besides, if you blow it after a day, I am pretty sure the warranty will cover it....lol

-Mystic

 
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Mystic..I for a short time ran 1100Wrms to an RF Punch RFZ 50Wrms sub..it took it for 3 weeks..

The thing is I never pushed the amp to full power or anywhere near it..JL subs really can't take all that much more than their rated for..so many people "claim" they can...but so many dealers have a crapload in their store rooms with burnt Voice coils..

 
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But you should be able to run a 10W7 or a 12W7 with a 1000/1 without blowing it, especialy the 12. By the way, i'm confused about something....JL's website doesnt say, but they make a reference to the 500/5 being a class D amp, is the 500/1 and the 1000/1 class D or class AB?

 
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I thought that JL didn't use the misleading "peak" rating to rate their subs?

 
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THey dont really....I do have to keep the gains and boost on my amps at zero to keep the sub from popping when I crank it, but the 12W7 can definately handle 1000 watts, and the 10W7 can take 1000 watts if you dont push it tooooo hard.

-Mystic

 
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the whole point here is that you may have an amplifier capable of 1000Wrms..but the likelyhood of actually running that much power through it wile playing music is very unlikely..also the volume would have to be turned way...so loud so that your ears would hurt from the highs..or your kidneys would be vibrating from the bass..and at that power level your electrical system wouldn't hold up...


the 5005/5's sub channel is a class D

the 500/1 and 1000/1 are high current class a/b amps

 
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mo, your off your game! first teh JBL 1 ohm stability, now this! JL's documentation clearly states that all their subwoofer amplifiers (and yess the 5th channel of the 500/5) IS in fact "a new class D circuit which...." blah blah blah. even teh 250/1 is class D (according to JL documentation......)

anyways, im posting to defend the power handling of the w7 series and throw in some theory as to teh difference between the w6v2 and the w7. ill get that outta the way first. im told teh w6v2 has the SQ of the w7, just not teh SPL or teh SPL potential, anyways. fairly believeable. i have no concrete evidence tho.

i CAN tell you that a w7 was put in nathan munsons civic, and bested 170 dB. furthermore, the w7's bottomless design has taken REDICULOS amounts of power. the 12w7 has taken over 10,000 watts rms of power!

now: before you get into the difference between music and bass burps (ill adress it heere now) whether or not it can handle 1000 for music is totally irellevant! when playing music, the amount of power (as long as its in teh adequate range) is meaningless! id get teh 1000/1 for teh 12w7 on principle. and sure, i bet i COULD blow the w7 by playing 15 Hz burps at full gain, too. but if teh woofer is stressing, back it down! the word of teh day is: headroom.

you get amps that are WAY WAY too powerful BECAUSE you can back them down. its not about using the potential, its increasing teh VALUE of the potential you USE.

if the w7 cant handle 1000 music, so be it. id still get a 1000-1500 rms amp for it and back the gains dow to ensure a cleaner signal.

and i really hope that this doesnt provoke anyone, but to be honest, if you chased running a w7 rageddy with playing it ragged LOUD then blew it, whos fault is that? im assuming that if it blew, and in your shop, then it was because it was a demo model, right? all the pissant kids come it to hear it, turn it way up, then pretty soon, boom! i got it right, right? its why my shop keeps entrylevel on teh board. just in case......

 
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I'm old..