need help!!! wired amp & bass box but switch to remote lead is blowin fuse!!!!!!!!
09-22-2002
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need help!!! wired amp & bass box but switch to remote lead is blowin fuse!!!!!!!!
hey all, i hope someone can help me here... ok here's the situation... ready for this??? i installed an amp and bass box in my car. i ran the power to the amp from the battery positive, grounded the amp to the bolt from the rear seatbelts. now here's where the problem is, i tapped into the cig lighter for power to the remote lead on the amp. to be more exact, i installed a switch between the cig lighter power lead and the amp remote terminal. i spliced the positive cig lighter lead and ran it to the positive on the rocker switch, then i spliced the negative from the cig lighter and ran that to the ground on the rocker switch, then i ran the accessory terminal on the rocker switch to the remore terminal on the amp, this way i can cut the amp off whenever i want. the problem is that the fuse in the cars fuse block for the cig lighter is now blowin every time i hit the switch to "on" (it was a 10A or 15A fuse). S o i tried a 20A and it still blew. Then i tried something else, i took a spare wire, spliced a fuse holder in and put a 30A fuse in there and touched one end to the power terminal on the amp and the other end i touched the remote terminal on the amp, the amp went on, and stayed on, but the wire got so hot that i had to drop it cause it was burning my fingers!!!! so here is my question: is the problem that i ran the ground from the switch to the negative on the cig lighter? or is the problem that i slpiced the cig lighter in the first place (other people had told me that they spliced the cig lighter positive with no problems)??? should i ground the switch to a real ground or go thru the hassle of removing the head unit (its the factory unit) and looking for a remote lead if there is one? please help, i spent like 11 hours werkin on it today and i dont want to short anything out but i want to get this werking.... i think i'm gonna cry!!! lol any and all help and info is greatly appreciated!!!!!
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 322 I'm so lost, try hit enter after a few thoughts to make it easier to read.. but anyway.
I think all that you are doing is trying to install a switch on the turn-on lead so that you can turn the amp off at any time. I think that all you need to do is connect an on/off switch on the turn on lead. You don't need to mess with the negative lead. Just take a wire and connect it to the positive on the cig lighter and connect it to the turn-on on the amplifier and put a switch in between.
-Ed
I think all that you are doing is trying to install a switch on the turn-on lead so that you can turn the amp off at any time. I think that all you need to do is connect an on/off switch on the turn on lead. You don't need to mess with the negative lead. Just take a wire and connect it to the positive on the cig lighter and connect it to the turn-on on the amplifier and put a switch in between.
-Ed
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 0 sorry about the garbled first post, i'm just so tired and so disappointed.... ok, i'll cut the ground goin to the neg on the cig lighter, but what about it blowin the fuse on the cig lighter? it blew like 3 times, has anyone else that spliced into the cig lighter had this problem of fuse blowin?
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 0 i dont understand... connect what positive to the remote turn on? from the switch??
it's all connected, its just that the fuse keeps blowin on the cig lighter and then no power gets to the amp turn on.
is there a remote lead actually coming out from the stock radio? if so i will connect it to that instead, but if not where else can i get power that will not blow the fuse all the time?
it's all connected, its just that the fuse keeps blowin on the cig lighter and then no power gets to the amp turn on.
is there a remote lead actually coming out from the stock radio? if so i will connect it to that instead, but if not where else can i get power that will not blow the fuse all the time?
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 0 I dunno if there's a power antenna lead on the stock deck. but i heard that there's an amplifier for the antenna, which needs the power antenna lead connected, so maybe there is one on the stock deck.
However. I have no idea which wire it is, and you'd have to splice in to it...
Anybody with more knowledge care to fill Shadow in on this?
However. I have no idea which wire it is, and you'd have to splice in to it...
Anybody with more knowledge care to fill Shadow in on this?
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 0 i just don't get it... i am wondering if all those other poeple that spliced into the cig lighter positive had the same problem of blowin fuses all the time... where has everyone else wired their amp remote turn-on to?
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 313 you never touch teh ground. thats your problem.
what has happened, is you connected both ground and positive to that switch, so when you flip it, you just short the two completely. no wonder everytime you flip the switch you blow a fuse! i bet it blows INSTANTLY, doesnt it? not just fade out after a second or two? just ZAP?
you should have a 2 position switch, you take the positive lead from yoru cig lighter to one lead, then the other lead to teh amp. yoru done, and no more blown fuses!
what has happened, is you connected both ground and positive to that switch, so when you flip it, you just short the two completely. no wonder everytime you flip the switch you blow a fuse! i bet it blows INSTANTLY, doesnt it? not just fade out after a second or two? just ZAP?
you should have a 2 position switch, you take the positive lead from yoru cig lighter to one lead, then the other lead to teh amp. yoru done, and no more blown fuses!
09-22-2002
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Rep Power: 0 ok, i finally think i figured out the problem...
i disconnected the switch [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG], and wired the remote straight from the cig lighter and everything werks perfect !!!!!!
(wow its awsome to have such bass in a 2k1 civic, lol)
anyway, what i noticed is that the switch is rated at 16A, could that be why i was blowin the 15A fuse everytime i turned the car on?
i think thats it, so i tomorrow i'm returning the switch and gonna try a lesser Amp rating, if not i dont care, i'll just leave it the way it is... menaing the right way lol
and yes, i do have a digital camera so i'll take pics to show you guys where i put the switch... thanks again all!!!!!!
i disconnected the switch [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/IMG], and wired the remote straight from the cig lighter and everything werks perfect !!!!!!
(wow its awsome to have such bass in a 2k1 civic, lol)
anyway, what i noticed is that the switch is rated at 16A, could that be why i was blowin the 15A fuse everytime i turned the car on?
i think thats it, so i tomorrow i'm returning the switch and gonna try a lesser Amp rating, if not i dont care, i'll just leave it the way it is... menaing the right way lol
and yes, i do have a digital camera so i'll take pics to show you guys where i put the switch... thanks again all!!!!!!
10-03-2002
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[hr]Originally posted by: Shadow
hey all, i hope someone can help me here... ok here's the situation... ready for this??? i installed an amp and bass box in my car. i ran the power to the amp from the battery positive, grounded the amp to the bolt from the rear seatbelts. now here's where the problem is, i tapped into the cig lighter for power to the remote lead on the amp. to be more exact, i installed a switch between the cig lighter power lead and the amp remote terminal. i spliced the positive cig lighter lead and ran it to the positive on the rocker switch, then i spliced the negative from the cig lighter and ran that to the ground on the rocker switch, then i ran the accessory terminal on the rocker switch to the remore terminal on the amp, this way i can cut the amp off whenever i want. the problem is that the fuse in the cars fuse block for the cig lighter is now blowin every time i hit the switch to "on" (it was a 10A or 15A fuse). S o i tried a 20A and it still blew. Then i tried something else, i took a spare wire, spliced a fuse holder in and put a 30A fuse in there and touched one end to the power terminal on the amp and the other end i touched the remote terminal on the amp, the amp went on, and stayed on, but the wire got so hot that i had to drop it cause it was burning my fingers!!!! so here is my question: is the problem that i ran the ground from the switch to the negative on the cig lighter? or is the problem that i slpiced the cig lighter in the first place (other people had told me that they spliced the cig lighter positive with no problems)??? should i ground the switch to a real ground or go thru the hassle of removing the head unit (its the factory unit) and looking for a remote lead if there is one? please help, i spent like 11 hours werkin on it today and i dont want to short anything out but i want to get this werking.... i think i'm gonna cry!!! lol any and all help and info is greatly appreciated!!!!![hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: Shadow
hey all, i hope someone can help me here... ok here's the situation... ready for this??? i installed an amp and bass box in my car. i ran the power to the amp from the battery positive, grounded the amp to the bolt from the rear seatbelts. now here's where the problem is, i tapped into the cig lighter for power to the remote lead on the amp. to be more exact, i installed a switch between the cig lighter power lead and the amp remote terminal. i spliced the positive cig lighter lead and ran it to the positive on the rocker switch, then i spliced the negative from the cig lighter and ran that to the ground on the rocker switch, then i ran the accessory terminal on the rocker switch to the remore terminal on the amp, this way i can cut the amp off whenever i want. the problem is that the fuse in the cars fuse block for the cig lighter is now blowin every time i hit the switch to "on" (it was a 10A or 15A fuse). S o i tried a 20A and it still blew. Then i tried something else, i took a spare wire, spliced a fuse holder in and put a 30A fuse in there and touched one end to the power terminal on the amp and the other end i touched the remote terminal on the amp, the amp went on, and stayed on, but the wire got so hot that i had to drop it cause it was burning my fingers!!!! so here is my question: is the problem that i ran the ground from the switch to the negative on the cig lighter? or is the problem that i slpiced the cig lighter in the first place (other people had told me that they spliced the cig lighter positive with no problems)??? should i ground the switch to a real ground or go thru the hassle of removing the head unit (its the factory unit) and looking for a remote lead if there is one? please help, i spent like 11 hours werkin on it today and i dont want to short anything out but i want to get this werking.... i think i'm gonna cry!!! lol any and all help and info is greatly appreciated!!!!![hr]
Why aren't you using the amp rem wire that comes from the head unit? I only skimmed your post so I don't know exactly what head unit you have, but if it's aftermarket look for the blue wire with the white stripe. Splice into that for the AMP REM wire.
10-03-2002
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Rep Power: 0 I've got a question... I'm going to be installing an amp on the stock hu in about a week, so I figure I might as well find out before I start. I thought somebody said you shouldn't connect the amp directly to the cig lighter without a switch because you will drain the battery. But is the switch not necessary then? The cig lighter would only send power when the car is on right? I don't think I would ever need a switch to power it off if it will just power off with the car. Thanks!
10-03-2002
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Rep Power: 0 ok, what i ended up doing is i ran a 12 gauge wire from the positive terminal on my battery to a 7.5A fuse, then to a switch, then from the switch to the amp remote turn on terminal. it works great now, i can have the bass reflex box on whenever i want, and i can shut it off whenever i want (aka when i have a headache lol).
otherwise, if you don't want ot run a switch, i ran the remote turn on lead straight to the cig lighter (with a fuse ofcourse) and it also werked fine, and yes, it turned off when i shut the car off. so there's the 2 ways you can do it...
otherwise, if you don't want ot run a switch, i ran the remote turn on lead straight to the cig lighter (with a fuse ofcourse) and it also werked fine, and yes, it turned off when i shut the car off. so there's the 2 ways you can do it...
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