MVHonda

to start off, i currently have 2 amps in my car with 780 max and 340 max. the problem started 3 days ago where my girl, "may" have left her the lights on which caused the battery to die, well, the security officer at her work provided a jump start and she was on her way. well, today she is driving back from lunch and the car just stops, and when she tried to re-start, it just stutters, now, i know that the car would not just stop in the middle of the road if it was the battery. would you guys think its the alternator? any ideas fellas? i hope its not the alternator, well maybe, would it be covered under warrenty, and well, i know i have 2 amps, but i could conceal them and just say that it went out on its own, but then again, i changed the head unit though.

Simkin

1120watts plus a head unit on stock electrical system is pretty taxing.

The alternator may have cooked if you didn't upgrade the wiring that goes to it. Our alternators have no fans to cool them off.

And yes, if the alternator is fried, honda will look for a stereo system....hehe, you're better off removing it when you take it to the dealership.

Gryphin

alternator is shot to hello [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

get a cap. for your amps and stuff , and upgrade your wiring, but before you take it in , take EVERYTHING out related to a upgrade system or else they will not cover it, so basically go back to stock , and make sure to take out any wires you may have installed to run the stuff, because they will see it , but not the thing it hooks up to , and know you took it out

LudlamTheory

1120 watts of max? thats crap... you could run 1120 watts of rms and still survive on the stock elec system

cheesy9999

yeah dude I have a JBL 1200 watt amp, but then again it's supposed to be pretty efficent, and I don't think I've ever cranked it all the way up. I just got a cap too, pretty tight looking even it doesn't do anything...

If you're interested it's a 1.5 farad cap with a digital voltage display top, by a company called Fusion, check eBay, it's a good deal too, about $85 (none of those $300 PheonixGold caps for me...a cap is a cap...)

Simkin

I didn't say that our systems have a max of 1120 watts, I said it was pretty taxing on the stock electric system.

Running over 1000 watts requires you to upgrade to a thicker gauged cable for your alternator or run a capacitor for your peaks. Otherwise the wires for the alternator will heat up. And when they heat up it, they act as a resistor. Which puts an even greater load on the alternator, and will eventually burn it out under constant load.

LudlamTheory

and im saying that 1120 watts of MAX power (not rms) requires you to do nothing whatsoever to yyour E-system, not even wire upgrades...

Simkin

Ok, well there's really no point in arguing, I mean, tell that to MVHonda with the blown alternator, and how much he can 'REALLY' run.....hehe

mattymatt

Even if you bring it to honda and they replace it there's a good chance it will blow out
again. I would upgrade the wires if I were you.

Daniel420

So there are wires that run to the Alt that need to be upgraded? What are they called? How much...

I'm pretty sure i'll need to get them once I put my JBL 1200.1 in. I jsut don't want to sound like a fool asking at some place... what/where should I ask for those wires.

WhiteRabbit

jbl1200.1 ran at 1200 watts, earthquake 4.3 running at 520 watts. thats RMS power, and anyone who knows either company can tell you how underrated they are.

stock electrical system. still going strong

requires? mowhawk and i went through this, there are alot of myths running around about caraudio. everyone thinks they know something, but please dont use the words "need" or "requires" chances are, you might have stumbled onto a myth. which is exactly what has happened here.