running two amps?
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From: San Antonio, Texas, US
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running two amps?
I am running two amps off one line running back from the battery, I will split it in the trunk. The wire is 6 Gauge, I am wondering if there is a special way to run it or do I just split it and then run one to one way and one to the other? thanks for the help.
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From: Tinley Park, Illinois, US
Rep Power: 319 Most people use a combination fuseholder/distristribution block. I suposse you could just get away with just a distribution block, but a little extra fuse protection dosn't hurt.
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From: Brooklyn, New York, US
Rep Power: 0 you should definitly use a combo. I once has a short that took place after my first fuse in my old car and it blew the two fuses in my block to pieces...if they werent therer i would have had to throw my amps in the garbage.
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Rep Power: 0 thanks for your help, i appreciate the picture!, BTW, how can you make a link work on your profile?
also, is the gas tank directly under the back seat cushion? i was under the car yesterday and thats what it looks like.
also, is the gas tank directly under the back seat cushion? i was under the car yesterday and thats what it looks like.
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From: Washington State
Rep Power: 307 Best advice:
Replace wire from battery to distribution block with 4 gauge, then run 6 or 8 gauge from each terminal in the block to each amp. If you already have 6 gauge in there going to each amp, leave it, and just do the lead wire from the block to the battery. It'd cost something like $15-30 (ie: Monster, Lightning, etc) for 4 awg wire running from the block up to the battery (assuming you locate it somewhere in the trunk), and about $20-25 more for the block. Not sure how much more the combo blocks are, but that Fosgate one ICR has for a signature couldn't cost much more than that.
I was told by some pros that you want the fuse for the amps as close to the battery as possible. . give or take 6". (Somewhere in the engine compartment is usually best) This would obviously cost a little more for a separate fuse block, but you're running upwards of 500W RMS so spend a few more bucks and get a nice big one in there. A little more $$ now can save you a lot more $$$$ later. If you're really into preserving your equipment like I am, not only for the investment, but for the sound, you'll spend decent money on the supplemental equipment and wiring.
Replace wire from battery to distribution block with 4 gauge, then run 6 or 8 gauge from each terminal in the block to each amp. If you already have 6 gauge in there going to each amp, leave it, and just do the lead wire from the block to the battery. It'd cost something like $15-30 (ie: Monster, Lightning, etc) for 4 awg wire running from the block up to the battery (assuming you locate it somewhere in the trunk), and about $20-25 more for the block. Not sure how much more the combo blocks are, but that Fosgate one ICR has for a signature couldn't cost much more than that.
I was told by some pros that you want the fuse for the amps as close to the battery as possible. . give or take 6". (Somewhere in the engine compartment is usually best) This would obviously cost a little more for a separate fuse block, but you're running upwards of 500W RMS so spend a few more bucks and get a nice big one in there. A little more $$ now can save you a lot more $$$$ later. If you're really into preserving your equipment like I am, not only for the investment, but for the sound, you'll spend decent money on the supplemental equipment and wiring.
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