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If you are talking about door or rear-shelf speakers, you will be running a 4 ohm stereo load. All car audio amps can handle a 4ohm stereo load without a problem.
If you're running subwoofer(s) - you have to be careful. Most amps can be bridged to 4ohm mono (if you are running a single 4 ohm woofer). Now, if you have two 4ohm woofers wired in parallel, you got yourself a 2ohm mono load. If you are doing this, you'll need an amp that can be bridged to 2ohm mono. Not too many amps can do this - be careful, if your amp is not rated for 2ohm mono it will overheat and/or blow its fuse.
As for me, I have two 8ohm woofers in parallel, giving me a 4ohm mono load. My amp is only rated for 4ohm bridged mono operation, so I had to go with this set-up. One more caveat: some amp manufacturers claim their amps to be "2ohm mono stable", and well... often they are not. I am running a low end amp (Sony 1002HX for my subs), and it "claimed" to be stable to 2ohm mono. I tried two 4ohm woofers in parallel = 2ohm mono load, and the amp overheated like mad.
If you're running subwoofer(s) - you have to be careful. Most amps can be bridged to 4ohm mono (if you are running a single 4 ohm woofer). Now, if you have two 4ohm woofers wired in parallel, you got yourself a 2ohm mono load. If you are doing this, you'll need an amp that can be bridged to 2ohm mono. Not too many amps can do this - be careful, if your amp is not rated for 2ohm mono it will overheat and/or blow its fuse.
As for me, I have two 8ohm woofers in parallel, giving me a 4ohm mono load. My amp is only rated for 4ohm bridged mono operation, so I had to go with this set-up. One more caveat: some amp manufacturers claim their amps to be "2ohm mono stable", and well... often they are not. I am running a low end amp (Sony 1002HX for my subs), and it "claimed" to be stable to 2ohm mono. I tried two 4ohm woofers in parallel = 2ohm mono load, and the amp overheated like mad.
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