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I'm installing my amps and speakers today and am not sure wich wire is the remote wire on the wire harness on the factory HU.. I am still using the factory HU untill I decide what HU I want... if you know it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Nutz

 
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I'm not sure what one it is exactly, but if you can find the ACC power line, that woudl work too. You can get out the voltmeter and just chek a couple if you can't find anything.
-Ed

 
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I'm gong off memory here which often fails me..but I'm pretty sure it's the orange wire with white or yellow stripe (I'm fairly color blind) I know the main insulator is orange..

 
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you can use process of elimination and use the chart in the DIY section of the website.

 
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For my Basslink I spliced my remote on line off the speaker wire for the rear 6x9 speaker. I'm sure it's a cheesehole job that's probably frowned upon, but hey, it was easy and it works.

 
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easiest remote wire ifor a stock HU is your cig lighter. be sure to wire in a switch for it, you dont want your amps on all the time.

the industry standard wire color for remote is blue.

 
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Here is another issue I ran into... one of MANY.. the wire diagram in the DIY should be updated or my car is retarded.. The speaker wire chart is backwards on one of the 2, if the chart said drivers side it was the passenger side color.. odd.. so when you take your car to a shop how do they hook up a constant/remote? where do they go for one..

ONE BIG BIG plus I found with the car was the ease to run wire throughout, and the nice grounding bolt right in the trunk to the passengers side of the trunk latch.. nice and accessable..

Anyway the install took a total of 11 hours.. cutting wood/carpeting, running/hiding wire, building and REBUILDING spacers in the doors.. everything looks AWSOME!! I mounted the tweeters of my Boston Acoustic RC 620s on the black triangle piece above the door panel.. looks good.. after all of that work I ran into quality issues with the stock HU.. I guess I'll be buying a new HU sooner than I thought. Thinking about going with the Clarion DZX725 for the zero-bit mute circuit feature, it mutes the receiver's output when no signal is present. What do you all think about that head unit.. I'll take pics and post them once I get my HU in.

One more thing.. what would cause a click and whine in the speakers when the enging is running.. The power is running down the passenger side by itself, down the center are the input wires to the crossovers for the RC620's, the sub and tweeter wires for the RC620's and the RCA/remote. The ground is in the trunk going away from the power.. any thoughts.

Thanks,

Shawn

 
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awww, come on, man, you cant say that and not put up pictures to highlight bragging rights......

 
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read on sucka!!!! you dont want to see a GREAT AMP/speaker install with a factory HU do you?!?! Gimme a week.. geeze!

 
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OK thinking back on the initial iinstall and troubleshooting the noise. I was thinking about the remote again. CAN I daisy chain the remote from crossover to the amps. Pretty much having 3 wires going into the 12v on the crossover, 1 coming from the 12v source, 2 going to the amps.. is this ok or do i need to redo it.. F#$K.. the more I think about things the more I want to tear it apart and redo EVERYTHING.. Maybe my ground is not great.. I grounded to the bolt with 5 other wires being grounded there, I but my ground inbetween the other wires and the bolt, so it is not directly touching the body, should I change that? Yeah.. when I install my HX-D10 next week I'll be running another RCA anyway, may as well redo things the way I really want them now.. RCA's down the drivers side(currently down the middle), front speaker wire down the center(currently down the center) and power where it's at down the passenger side. I have my Acoustic's componets crossovers in the cernter console next to the ebrake, do you think this is fine? I suppose I am asking for a critique on what I have done and what I plan on doing. I need things perfect or I won't sleep at night [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

Thanks,

NuTz

 
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your remote wire will be blue with white stripe.

 
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whenever using a grounding screw for more than one wire, place the wire with the most load closest to the car. but you would be better off just drilling another hole for your other grounds.

 
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i would actually disagre. i start with teh wire that will conform to teh most irregular surface. i will wrap a wire that is bare around the bolt first, so it touches the frame first, then use a wire with an ring terminal to go over that, use the ring as a washer. both get a better connection, and unles yoru talking abotu amplifiers, it doesnt really matter what gets mroe power in teh end anyways.