Rep Power: 0

ok so you guys read how my amp fried in my car. well i wrote to orion about the problem and this is what they told me i should do......

The problem that you encountered is called high ground resistance. Whereas
the system is unable to obtain enough voltage through the ground path under
high load. Although you encountered it at a low volume, it was most likely
initiated while playing at high output. In that car I recommend that direct
grounding to the battery is used. This amplifier draws in excess of 300 amps
of current. The best way to run power to this unit is to run 1/0 ground from
the engine block to the engine compartment battery ground. From the front
battery ground, run 1/0 cable to the rear battery ground. From the rear
battery ground run 1/0 to a 4 output ground distribution. From the
distribution block run 2 runs of 4 ga. ground to the amp. For the positive
repeat the entire process, except start at the alternator output and fuse
after the front battery and before and after the battery in the rear. Make
sure to upgrade your alternator. I have a great reference for custom built
alternators.

Unfortunately your amp is most likely already damaged. Repair services can
be contacted by calling: 1800/876-0800 ext 4.


what do you guys or anyone else think of this one??? and yes mowhawk u can throw in an "i told you so" on getting a new altenator.. who should i go to to get one??

 
Rep Power: 338

i highly doubt that an unsatisfactory alternator caused your amp to die.

 
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I'm not gonna throw in an I Told You so... the proble was most likely what the Orion tech explained. Insufficient ground volatage. This is caused by your charging system running for extended periods of time at insufficient voltage. If your amp were a class D amp this wouldn't really be a problem..but because your amp is a High Current Class A/B amp..it subs massive Amperage. hence being called HIGH CURRENT!!.

There's 2 solutions...change amps..or get a high output alternator..

Cheers
Mohawk

 
Rep Power: 338

high ground resistance? cant supply teh amp with its needed current? sounds like a better ground is required, not a HO alt....

 
Rep Power: 0

Rabbit 12 Gauge Steel is not the best conductive material... still that amp is a current hogging ****... Upgraded grounds and Alternator are a must.

 
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it does pull alot of current but it is a class d amp...

Class D Subwoofer amps
Has your system been the butt of too many jokes from your friends lately? Ready to get serious? Well, one blast from an XTRPRO power-plant will shut them up, as you punish them with mind-numbing SPL & chase those pansies out of your car.

Orion has spent years perfecting class D technology. We're talking 77% average efficiency, 0.4% THD, >400 Damping, 85db Sig/Noise.. all this from a digital power-plant!

Orion XTRPRO Amplifiers Feature:
Ultra-Efficient Class D design
Variable Low-pass 45Hz to 250Hz
Variable High-pass 10Hz to 10kHz
Orion's bass-optimization circuit:
" INTELLi Q"
10dB of boost with INTELLi Q
Remote gain capable
Selectable auxiliary output
1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty

 
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Hi Ben,

Sorry boutt hat..I was think HCCA Amplifiers.. the XTRpro's are class D but very inneficient one's...those are their efficiency ratings at their best with a certain frequency.. judging by that amps current draw it's only at best 66% efficient which is dirt poor for a class D amp...

I still hold frim that you need to upgrade your wiring and ground and alternator to support that monster..or keept he volume down..

 
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In my ford i had a hifonics zues and it blew my alt up along with the wires connected to the alt, def need a ho alt