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So I got off the phone with the local alternator shop earlier this week pretty p.o'd. I called to ask if there was a way they could rewind my alternator to get more amps for my system. Now...
Extra Caps, Extra Batteries.... Blah Blah
These are just more storage devices. Those devices still need recharged. Just because I put 20 Farads of quick draw power to my amps, doesn't mean that they just magically recharge themselves. So... Eventually the amperage has to come from somewhere. Eventually the caps or extra bats will all deplete and you'll end up with dimming headlights and B.S. etc!
Problem: Ultimately, need more amps out of alternator

Back to the Alternator Shop
They told me that... "On 02-05 Honda Civics; the car's computer senses the amount of amps the alternator is putting out and adjusts the fuel air ratio" "The computer makes the engine run real rich (high fuel to low air ratio). They said... "You'll just like start burning fuel like crazy and will get horrible gas mileage" He then proceeded to tell me that I should get rid of my Honda so I can get a GM truck and that way I can put an extra alternator in it?
So basically my solution is to go trade in my civic for a truck? WTF?

1. Is there any truth to this "reads amps and dumps extra fuel" theory BullSh*t?
2. Can I get a better "stock fit" alternator cranking at least 30 more amps? (without electrical add-ons to trick the computer)
3. What are my options for more amperage?

Don't tell me to go get a cap or "hybrid" power cell BS. No extra battery theory either! I am running like 500 RMS between my deck 3 ways and my subs; and I am already running a 1 farad cap. Oh yea and the cap... In or out, doesn't really help with Sh*t! I just haven't bothered to remove it yet.

Any suggestions?

The car:
2002 Honda Civic EX VTEC
Big Three Upgrade to 2 gauge wire grounds from block to chassis and chassis to negative terminal
All paint scraped and covered in dielectric grease on all big three contact areas
Screw the ring terminals... Where the F do you find ring terminals for 2 gauge anyways? I went with machined hard aluminum Distro blocks bolted to the frame.
Also 2 gauge wire direct from alternator charging wire to Battery positive terminal

What do I do????

 
Rep Power: 812

well yeah you already figured the correct choice is a new alternator. now as for messing with the car, the only real effect will be the higher amp alternator puts a bit more stress on the motor and you might burn a bit more fuel and lose some hp. but as far as air/fuel ratios there is no chance an alternator will affect that, which is controled by the ecu. they are partially right that the civic has an ELD (electronic load detector) that reduces power to the alternator when the car does not need it and kicks it back up when you turn on accessories. the problem comes in because the ELD does not see the amps or your stereo equipment which i assume is wired direct to the battery. so adding a new alternator may not really work in this case. they are available, and some guys here have em, but im not sure how well they work. the ELD may limit the amount of power it puts out because it will still see your electrical system as stock. unless ofcourse there is so much power being drained that the voltage drops below a certain point (i think 12v or something) and the eld will force the alternator to charge. so im sure its better than none. i dont know which brands and stuff are good for our cars tho.

ring terminals for 2 gauge are at www.partsexpress.com

 
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so any ideas on modifying the ELD to get the alternator to constantly charge?

 
Rep Power: 812

nobody has done anything like that. i imagine if you can figure out how the wiring works and route your amp wires accordingly, it may work. the ELD is inside the fuse box, but im not sure if you can hook up big audio wires. im not even sure what it does to regulate, but i have seen it with a voltmeter hooked up. its always jumping around but alot of times will steady at 12v unless you do something like turn the fan on, use wipers, or other power consuming task. maybe you can figure out how to run a signal wire from your amp, but the thing is the eld i believe only sees changes in current. so the first time the amp turns on the alt will kick on full power, but after a while it will just drop back again.

 
Rep Power: 291

you could in theory run larger cable from the battery to the fuse box, and run your system power from inside the fuse box. this would require cutting holes in the box and modifying stuff. your system electrical usage would then be detected by the ELD. again, this is in theory as no one here has done it this way that i know of.

 
Rep Power: 291

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/2...-detector.html

in that first pic, you'd want to tie in your system on a different fuse from the right screw in that red box, before the car's fuse. again.....in theory.

 
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HAHA! Trade your civic for a truck...seems like the guy would just do what you want him to do considering that is what his biz is all about. It does make more sense in my head though if you wired the additional accessories after the ELD bs. I could see how the stock alt would have a hell of a time keeping up too. The more I do to my car the more complicated things seem. damn. Gotta love that mod fever..haha