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Hey all, I cross-posted this from the Toronto Accord Club Forums. I figured you folks may have some valuable input here! Suggestions appreciated, otherwise I guess enjoy what you read/see.



So I've tackled getting a 0/1 Guage wire stuffed through the firewall/gromet of a 2001 Civic DX, ran that fat sucker to the trunk, and hooked up 1125-watts RMS of ***-thumpers to it all. I took it all out, save for the deck and power wire (laziness), and am building a project for my 2008 Honda Accord EX-L (4-Cyl Auto (yes I am tres lame)): http://www.torontoaccords.com/viewto...p?f=59&t=55278

Current challenges include:
* Fitting the subs in the trunk (see later).
* Deciding on a new sub and box, if necessary.
* Deciding if it's worth getting another set of Type-X components for the rear soundstage.
* Getting it all installed and deadening the hell out of the trunk.

I have sitting around so far...
* Two Alpine Type-R 10" subs.
* Dual 10" sub box, ported.
* Alpine PDX-1.1000 amp
* Alpine PDX-2.125 amp <-- probably will replace this with a four-channel OR get another one of these.
* Apline Type-X components
* Three-output distribution block, positive battery terminal distributor, appropriate fuse, etc.
* An extra box with two Alpine Type-R 12" subs (older generation, one sub is dead/dying).

Arriving soon...
* Metra dash kit/bezel (dual-climate control, 2-DIN), wiring harness, antenna coupler.
* Pioneer AVIC-F90BF navigation & head unit.
* New power, speaker, and RCA wires (matching, properly contoured this time).

So the biggest the problem I have right now, is that the Accord has a weird shape for its trunk:


So wierd, in fact, that the subs had to be carted around (note, not plugged in, as I just pulled them from the Civic) like this:


The sub box is just a bit too wide. Maybe by five or so centimeters.


However it is a nice box. The 12" box (not pictured) is a bit narrower and may fit. Not sure if I will bother, as it won't be flush to the floor of the trunk.


Close-ups of the components:
PDX 2-channel amp:



PDX mono-amp for subs:



The PDXes:



The 10" Type Rs:


And the Type Xes (Civic kickpanels still attached):






So what am I posting?
Well, I'm going to post the progress as I get more components in there, but I do have some needs/questions from the enthusiasts/knowledgeable here:
- I'm concerned a lot about sound quality. I found that the two tens tended to be very loud (maybe a bit too overwhelming at certain pitches), yet high-end bass was poor. Kind of expected in large subs. Probably my tuning was to blame, but it's still pretty stark and obvious.
- I've still got the 8" stock sub built into the car that I'd like to figure out -- ideally I'd use that for the higher-bass and mid-range, then seamlessly (hopefully) fade the sound to the larger sub(s) as pitch got lower. Tips/suggestions to pull this off? Would have been easy if I bought a DSP instead of a new deck.
- Ideally I'd use the two 10" subs, finding a box or solution that fits the contours of the trunk properly. I don't want anything sliding around, and I'd like to avoid permanent change to the trunk, if possible. Ideas? I haven't found custom trunk boxes for new Accords. The idea of making one does not leave me feeling excited.
- I still have a working 12" Alpine Type-R sub, though older. It could work nicely, or I'll just buy a whole new sub. What would you think? I imagine it'd be even worse with that whole "high-pitch-lows / low-pitch mids being too faint compared to the lows" issue.

 
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As far as subwoofers go, the type r's are known for their ability to get loud. I would definately consider having a different box built for the 10"s before jumping into purchasing new subs. Send me a pm for more information on the box and subs. As far as the sound quality from the system, that will have alot to do with the processing unit (head unit). A unit with many eq features will help to balance out all of the different frequencies fed to the different speakers. I'm not too familiar with your choice of headunit, but I know that my pioneer prs880 has put my system a step above many of the local daily cars/competitors.

 
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Howdy howdy! Thanks for the reply. I do have a PRS880 in the Civic, but this one compares decently. It's not as strong with the audio processing as the PRS, I can tell you that much.

I'm taking the Accord in to...day to get the trunk deadened and effectively get an amp-install job done (battery fused, wired, run through to the rear, RCAs run from deck on other side of the car, rear deck pulled and dynamatted, etc).

I'm probably going to end up asking them to put in the Alpine Type-Xes in the rear while they're opening it all up, too, so I don't have to deal with that again later. Problem is they'll be a lot stronger/better than the fronts, then. :P

I'm not sure if anyone will read this post by the time it's done... I'll post pictures if there's anything worth showing.


Edit: What follows after is locating another set of Type-Xes for the front, replacing the two-channel with a four, OR just merely adding the four-channel PDX. The two-channel can be used to wire an 8" to fit in the rear-soundstage.
Hmmm... maybe this is my cue to have the existing type-Xes in the doors tomorrow.

If the two 10s don't cut it even in a custom box (let's face it, this one isn't good for the long term, sitting this way), I'll have a nice 8 sitting in the factory mount, powered by the 2x150w PDX. Can take it up to 300w, easily.

Yup, sounds like I'll try this out.

Do tell on the box suggestions, however. I'll shoot you a PM as well.

 
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Nice setup! How much all in all upon modifying that?

 
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Update: I got the trunk dynamatted, but the refence speakers didn't get installed just yet - not enough time. They had a good rate going, averaged like $50 an hour in labor. Materials costed me a bunch, but still a decent deal.
Good job, but my trunk doesn't open very far now when I remote-unlock it, heh. Gotta get those bars adjusted, or something?



I'll probably go there next for the front doors next time with some dynamatting for about $200-250 total, which is after parts, labor, etc. I know, it's probably better to do it yourself, but I frankly don't have the time.


Anyway. The bits and pieces alone ran me for quite a bit. The PDX series amps are expensive but very very good. I'd say you want to with JL over Alpine when it comes to the amps and speakers (dollar for dollar), but I'm very happy and satisfied, don't get me wrong.

For the subs, box, amps, it was abouuuuut $1400 or so without taxes. Pretty good deal, considering the PDX 1.1000 was about a dollar per watt of power, MSRP. :P
The box is decent, not that amazing. I'll probably get a lot more out of a real one (that properly fits my trunk, no less).

The Alpine Type-X reference speakers also have a high MSRP, I can't remember how much they were, but probably about $300 or so when I got 'em.

I generally get everything off of eBay. I was relying on stock money from when the company I work at went IPO. Made a good chunk of change!

So what's left: Another amp, another set of Alpine type-Xes for the rear, installation of all four speakers, dynamatting a wee bit more, and getting it all hooked up.
If I go with another two-channel, it's $250-300. A four-channel is $400-$500. At most (including shipping), it's all going to be about another $1200.

That's a lot of money. :|
But it'd be DONE. Aw yeah.

Edit: All Canadian dollars, by the way.