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I've got an MTX thunder 5601
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...nder+5601.html

It says it's 600 watts at 2 ohms. Can I bridge it , and run 600 though each 12 in. sub i have?


Thanks!

 
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600W Amplifier

Subwoofer:

run a 600W SVC sub to it

(or)

run a DVC sub which is 300W each coil = 600W total

(or)

run x2 300W SVC subs to it

basically keep it at 600W no matter what sub(s) you use!

 
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depends on what kind of sub/s you have and how you wire them.

If each sub has a single 4 ohm then wire them in parallel so amp sees a 2 ohm load and pushes out 600w(each sub gets 300w)

if both your subs are dvc then it gets complicated from there depending if they are 2,4, or 8 ohm coils

 
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My subs are 2 DB drive speed series 12's.

 
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we still need the rms rating and amount of coils.

 
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Simple answer is no, you can't have 600 watts rms going to each sub. If you have 2 subs, the most you have to each sub is 300 rms. It depends on how your subs are wired though.

If you have 2 subs, and want to produce 600 rms to each sub, you need an amp that can produce 1200 watts rms.

 
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Good news this amps actually pushes 777 watts instead of 600. According to something I read.

Does anyone know if this amp is 1 ohm stable?

 
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umm its rated at 600rms at 14.4 volts. theres no way its going to push 777 watts at your cars 12 volts.

 
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Battery is around 14 volts when car is on and it has nothing to do with how many watts the amp can push. If you wire it in parallel @ 2ohm load, it could go up to 750+. It also depends on many other things such as length and thickness of wire, resistance of the subs, single/dual voice coils... etc. Also, companies under-rate their amps and no amps/subs run exactly as their rated wattage. Plz learn some general electric before you make suggestions/comments.

To answer your question, you cannot bridge it. This is a monoblock amp. This means it only has one channel. If you have 2 or more channels, you can bridge it into one. This is NOT one ohm stable so don't even try. If you have 2 subs you can wire them in parallel and it will be 2ohm load. Or you can wire them in series and have a 4ohm load. This is of course, based on the sub(s) you buy and how you want to wire them.

 
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umm i realize that companies underrate theyre amps. and yes, your battery puts out 14.4 volts. but the AMP in the trunk will not see that number. In our car, with a stock alternator outputting 80amps, the amplifier will likely only see 12 volts at optimal conditions (no a/c, headlights, dome lights, power windows etc)

EDIT: The amp is fused to 60 amps. Using some basical electrical formulas of watss = amps * votls, you can conclude that at
14.4 volts * 60 amps = 864 watts.
The birthsheet rating was 777rms, so
777Watts / 14.4 Volts = 53.4 amps. Becaues its less than .5, well round down to 53 amps.
12volts * 60 amps = 720 watts. so 720 is actually a feasible number, although unrealistic because if it exceeded 60 amps, itd blow the fuse. So we know its not hitting 60 amps. So:
lets say:
12 volts * 53amps = 636 watts. still undderated, but thats 318 rms per sub. Thats acutally pretty good.

I realize conclusions have been drawn between amps/volts/alternator output, but it has been simplified for the sake of simplification. If im wrong here, please correct me.

Second Edit: I have an Infinity 611a Monoblock Class D amp. It has 2 sets of terminals. According to the owners manual, one sub per terminal is normal mode @ 4ohms. Using the outer pos/neg terminals, it refers to this as "Bridged mode" This bridged mode should be used in a 2Ohm configuration for a total output of 657RMS @ 2ohms at 14.4 volts. It is CEA-2006 compliant, just like your MTX amp, meeting it has been certified to meet its advertised rating. In nonbridged 4Ohm mode, it runs 465RMS@4ohms. This bridgeable configuration has been confirmed by local audio shops.

 
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So if the batterys volts have nothing to do with the wattage an amp pushes, then what does? Cause you know, all amps are just magical blocks that produce power from no volts.

Why do you think you need a power cord from the battery to the amp!?!? To power your pretty little LEDS?

silly goose.

Maybe YOU should learn some "general electrical knowlege." the amount of volts the battery pushes has EVERYTHING to do with how many watts the amp can push.

Watts = VOLTS * Amps

But I will acknowlege there is more to it than this...

 
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Voltage at the amp with engine on will be between 12.6-14.4 depending on vehicle load. That number is tightened up with a cap.

Amp output is not 100% of amp input, there are efficiency issues at hand.

Don't misspell the units if you want to look like you know what you're talking about.

Bridged implies there is more than one configuration. You can't "bridge" a mono amp because there's not two channels (or more) to bridge into a smaller number of channels. The 611a does have two sets of terminals, they are wired internally in parallel as one channel.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...,_and_Controls

 
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Certainly, if the amp has a regulated power supply.

For some well done math: http://www.bcae1.com/regunreg.htm

 
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yea i didnt know how they are wired internally, but on the owners manual, it states using them both as one equals "Bridged Mode." i agree this is not a true bridged mode though.

if you wanna get more techincal, its usually accepted that a Class D amp is about 80% effiicient. The other 20% is lost in heat. So we will take
636 solid watts * .8 (efficiency) and get - 509 real rms watts [probably on the lower side that youll ever see, especially considering its CEA-2006 compliant.

 
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So all in all, its a good amp. But youll never get 1200rms out of it. Also, its unlikeley youll get 1200rms out of your stock electrical system without a cap for extended periods of time. what are the rms ratings of your subs?

For 1200rms:
I reccommend the Kicker zx1000.1
or the Alpine MRP-M1000
i find those to be the most cost effective for that amount of REAL power. Sure you can get a hifonics 3000watt amp, for a little cheaper, but its overrated.

 
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Actually, I'm learning something about electricity. Getting my Masters in Electrical Engineering in 4 weeks, so i think i know what im talking about. Seeing as how you use Watts = VOLTS * Amps for everything, its basically a 4th grade equation to keep kids busy. I don't have time to sit here and explain to you about Ohm's Law, potential different, currents, internal/external resistance, simple circuits, Faraday's law of Induction, how transformers work, and all those good stuff. You can do that on your own time.

When i said the potential difference of the battery had nothing to do with the output of the amp's current, I'm also implying that the amp has a regulated power supply (as most amps are). Just because the battery is 12 volts does NOT mean the potential difference is 12volts all along the circuit. The current can be doubled or halfed according the resistance in the wiring (from 4Ohm to 2Ohm or from 4Ohm to 8Ohm), and this is where Ohm's Law comes into play.

This also depends greatly on the transformer ratio as electrical energy is transfered from one circuit (an electrical network composed of mostly capacitor, resistors, switches, and inductors) to another via electrical conductors. When current passes through the the first circuit, a magnetic field is produced and that magnetic fields changes the voltage when current is applied to the second circuit....and the third, and so on. Depending on how many turns or loops the current passes through these circuits, voltages can be increased or decreased in magnitude. Hence, this why it called an AMPLIFIER!!

IF YOU STILL DON'T GET IT. READ ON.

If you think an amplifier is a device to wire your speakers to, you're only 1/10 correct. If the term is not already self explanatory enough, an amplifier can decrease or increase the current or voltage that passes through it. That voltage or current is then transfered to the device its connected to. The term amplifier today is highly connected with the audio world, but its can be used in many applications.

 
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not to start another flame fest but...

the whole basis of your paragraph above is that the amp has a regulated power supply.
Correct me if im wrong,

But a CLASS D subwoofer amp IS NOT REGULATED. The reason it is so effiecient is because it only pulls power when it needs it and trashes the high frequency sound quality. This NONREGULATED power supply is also the reason your headlights dim at songs. If it was regualated, they be always DIM!

So you may have your masters, but your building off a false asumption here.
Again, no disrespect intended.

 
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http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13320.pdf

Page 8/13 in the pdf
Page 15 of the manual in the pdf

An example of Class D with regulated PS.

 
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In the hope of actually trying to help the OP here, are these DB Drive brand or are they those Kenwood db subs? And do you know are they single 4 ohm, or dual voice coil 4 ohm or whatever they are?

 
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yea ONE example. i think the other regulated is the alpine pdx series . But thats like 5 amps between those lineages compared with the legions of unregulated amps. and the OP's amp is not regulated.

Also, they could be Polk DB series. Which i think is possible since hes looking to push 600rms to each.

 
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http://www.epinions.com/pr-DB_DRIVE_...splay_~reviews

If your lookin at DB Drive subs.

I would NOT get them. Those are some of the worst ratings Ive ever seen for a car subwoofer. Usually everyone loves their subs because of the incredible bass, and since they cnat afford to buy another set.

 
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The basis of that paragraph is to explain to you how an amplifier works, since you clearly have no idea. Looking at most of your posts, they're just random statements without any data or knowledge to back them up. Christmaspie and I are trying to correct some of the thing you've said, but i guess you're too hard headed to learn. I've built amplifiers as small as 50watts to as large 3000watts. I know how they work inside and out!
I just don't want the OP to short out his thousands of dollars of stereo equipment listening to wrong details. I will say no more. Peace.

 
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I respect you for having built amplifiers before. I respect your intense knowledge of amps. But for the OP's purpose, that amp will likely not produce 780rms, let alone 600rms per sub. He does not need to know how to figure out how an amplifer works to determine this.

 
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Well, I got it all hooked up at Electronic Express. I'm running 2 DB drive speed series 12's and the MTX 5601 at 1 ohm. Now, i plan to replace the door speakers in a few weeks or so.

The subs are hittin' good.

 
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It can't be under a 1 Ohm load. Your speakers have 4Ohms impedance. If you wire in series: 4ohm + 4ohms = 8ohms load. If you wire it in parallel: 1/4 + 1/4 = 1/2(inverse) = 2ohms load. There's no other way to wire it. Even if you have 2 Ohm subs, that amp is NOT 1 ohm stable; you will fry both your speakers and amp and risk the chance of shorting out your electrical system. Even crutchfield wiring diagrams will not show you how to wire in 1 ohm because it's too high of a risk, even for a 1 ohm stable amp.

 
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I had it done at Electronic Express and he said it was 1 ohm. What's going on? How can I tell if it really is? So, far things are working great, though.

 
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+1 to fallout!!!!! my undergrad is in EE. i've wanted to post something like this many times, but haven't had the time with 2 little ones around the house. GREAT INFO!!!:tUP:

 
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follow the wires and draw us a diagram

 
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Hehe thx! Would've written in greater detail, but i got lazy.

If it's working fine, don't worry about it. It's not 1ohm though, and you don't want to be at 1ohm. I'm pretty sure it's at 2ohms, and that's good enough. I have a 1ohm stable amp @1200watts rms, but i always run it @ 4ohms. It's not worth frying your stuff over. Trust me...

 
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Yeah, hopefully it's at 2 ohms. So far, my headlights haven't even dimmed at night with me playing it.

P.S. Someone told me walmart sold DB testers for systems. Has anyone used one from there?