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sound deadening the car

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Old Apr 3, 2002
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sound deadening the car

I was reading another thread about how people applied sound deadening material on the doors, etc,
and I was wondering it should be applied to the metal or to the plastic? Is one better than the other,
or do they just end up doing the same thing regardless of where you put it? I was thinking of either using
the Scosche accumat or brown bread stuff.
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Old Apr 4, 2002
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you put it on what rattles. i put it on both! worked great! you heat up teh surface with a heat gun, and roll away [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Old Apr 4, 2002
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yeah do both....... but make sure you get the metal
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Old Apr 6, 2002
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thanks guys! now I just need to order up the materials and start getting rid of some rattling!
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Old Apr 6, 2002
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to get rid of all the rattling in our cars you need mroe than sound deadenign mat... You'll also need some Clear silicone..and some Foam weather stripping....Email me at dmtp@lycos.com if you ever need help while deadening..I'm online 80% of the time.and check my emails very often.

Cheers
Mohawk
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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hey mohawk I am about to pull the whole civic apart to start putting down the dynamat xtreme is there anywhere that I should not put it cause I want everything to go back the way it is suppose to.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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<< hey mohawk I am about to pull the whole civic apart to start putting down the dynamat xtreme is there anywhere that I should not put it cause I want everything to go back the way it is suppose to. >>



Return the Dynamat Extreme because paring it's prices is like taking a baseball bat up the butt.. Return it..get your money back and Order some Raammat60. $99 for 62.5 sq.ft and it's "Almost" as good as Dynamat extreme (ream the raammat post for a review.). If you have a coupe.. put it on the dors, roof, firewall and trunk, and specially the rear deck. Also some clear silicone can do wonders if your trunk lid buzzes.(fill in the holes where the sheetmetal braces are) and some foam weather stripping to back all the plastic panels near the clips to prevent any unwanted contact.

Cheers
Mohawk
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I still need to find time to do mine. I have had 2 rolls of RAAM mat sitting in my room for several weeks now. I hate being so busy.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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<< I still need to find time to do mine. I have had 2 rolls of RAAM mat sitting in my room for several weeks now. I hate being so busy. >>



Busy is one thing. I'm making a new enclosure for my IDMAX's when they come in and I got derailed by goddam snow!!!!!SNOW!!!!

I'm without sounds now because my kickpanels are out.. My big A$$ foberglass/MDF enclosure is out. I have my RCA's and speaker wire all over the floor..it's Ugly lol..

SNOW!!!!
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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Mohawk, you have kickpanels? I was looking at doing that, but it looks like it would cut into the foot room something AWFUL! how did yours come out?
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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Lost my dead pedal. Was only able to fit 4.5's and get goot staging. Can;t solve some phasing problems with ym 3-way setup so I sold my kicks to a shop at a bit of a loss and I'm switching to a 2-way setup...

I really missed that dead pedal [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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lol. I have to have that dead pedal (foot rest) for when I go on long trips.

maybe I will do my sound deadening next Saturday. I don't think I have anything planned.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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It's a 3 day job minimum dude..

Cheers
Mohawk
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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yeah, I know. I am going to do the front doors first. then the rear doors. then the firewall. trunk last. might take me 4 days to do it because I have never done it before. maybe even 5 or 6 days. whatever it takes I guess.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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Firewalls the hardest part.. do your trunk first.. really easy.. Doors (little harder no room to work) then when you have 2 full days you can do the firewall once you have off the carpetting there's a rubber sound absorbing mat you have to remove..alot of oily stuff to clean off, then apply..it's not too easy an area to get at.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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maybe I will skip the firewall then. I never have 2 full days I can devote to anything. I will just do the trunk and doors for now I guess.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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Or use the matt on the roof instead.. taking out the hoodliner takes 30 minutes.. the roofs all flat panels so should be a snap to deaden. It makes a big difference with road noise.

Cheers
Mohawk
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I thought someone said the roof was a pain in the butt to do. so you are saying that it is easy?
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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The roof is a major pain in the butt if you have a moon roof.

Mohawk - You are talking about the firewall from inside the car, right? I'm wondering about that rubber mat with foam backing that is on the inside firewall. I've cut a lot of it off already but I'm wondering if I can safely just pull the whole freakin' thing out of there.

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Old Apr 30, 2002
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SQ..you can yank it all out.. but it's sound absorption mat and will help more with engine noise than sound damping mat will[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]..
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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UncleB..do you have a moonroof?.. MY DX it's easy as heck..
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I'm putting a barrier mat on top of the damping for noise to replace it with, I was just concerned about pulling it out of there and possibly pulling something loose.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I took mine out with ALOT of effort..and it's not back in 100% right.. (I love hot glue)
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I'm thinking of just trimming it up to a point in certain areas and anchoring it down. That's pretty much what I have done so far, just going to take it up a little higher.

Mohawk....gonna send you a pic by email with a question, it's too big to post here.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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dmtp@lycos.com
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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I have the moonroof. I think sound deadening the roof would be way too hard. I think doing the trunk and the doors is going to be easiest for me. if I get the courage and some spare time, I might try to do the firewall as well.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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If you have a moonroof and you remove the headliner you will notice that there is practically no flat roof area up there. I put mat on what little there was but we are talking small areas here. The biggest difference to the roof was adding a layer of 1/4" insulite (closed-cell foam) to the back of the headliner before putting it back up. Great insulation properties along with being a good noise barrier.
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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doh! I knew this was going to be a big project... I'll probably be like UncleB and take like 5 - 6 days complete... realistically,
probalby take like 3 - 4 weekends since I can't really work on it on the weekday. Once again... my car'll be a mess... looked
all ghetto last time I had it apart to do the audio stuff.

Unfortunately for me, I have a moonroof (hardly ever use it... it just came with the car)... doesn't sound like it'll be fun doing
that... at least it's not as bad as the firewall!

at least I know now what to apply and where.

Do you just apply big patches of it (covering all of the metal)? or can you do square areas which'll deaden sound up to X inches
around where you applied it?

edy
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Old Apr 30, 2002
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Works best covering every square inch. For small spots use small pieces.. Easier to work with that way.. for big flat areas use 6" by however long you need.. ANything wide gets a little unwieldy and you might apply it at weird angles and have gaps and such.
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Old May 1, 2002
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I started with everything today we took the whole car apart dynamated the two front doors and the trunk now all i have is the rear deck, floor panels and roof I was wondering if one of you guys would be so kind as to do a diy on the roof for me so that tomorrow when I do the rest of the car it goes smoothly. So far I only have 4 and a half hours in it. PS the reason I decided to go with dynamat rather than the ram is because I can get dynamat for cheaper then the ramm I emailed that guy though to find out what he thought. I will have pics as soon as I get done with the car
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