power windows and central locking
power windows and central locking
Hey guys waz up, gonna ask some questions if you don't mind.
I've a honda civic 2001 LXI with manual doors(windows, locks and mirrors) and i'm planning to change to fully automatic like in the VTI my queries are:
What are the stuffs that I will be needed?
I've downloaded the Honda service manual from these site but unfortunately I'm a little bit confused either the multiplex module need to be change or not, i know that there are some wirings to be done but where i'm going to connect it i mean point to point connections?
I will appreciate any help that you can shares.
Sorry if my english is not that good. Thanks
.
I've a honda civic 2001 LXI with manual doors(windows, locks and mirrors) and i'm planning to change to fully automatic like in the VTI my queries are:
What are the stuffs that I will be needed?
I've downloaded the Honda service manual from these site but unfortunately I'm a little bit confused either the multiplex module need to be change or not, i know that there are some wirings to be done but where i'm going to connect it i mean point to point connections?
I will appreciate any help that you can shares.
Sorry if my english is not that good. Thanks
. PWIT
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thats alot of electrical. your gunna need the door lock modulators, the switchs for the locks, the power window assembally, all the relays for it, the switchs for the windows, your gunna have to replace your mirrors with power mirrors then get the wiring harness and relays and switchs to change them too.
first you will need a great number of supplies. I have never dealt with autoloc before, but they have everything you need. they will be a first resource.
www.autoloc.com
click on products. you will find a myriad of available products.
the first will be some window motors. the easiest retrofit are the "universal" motor. I use these in my car, and they work wonderfully well. you will run both wires from the motor to where you keep your relays. the relays dont have to be located next to the switches, itll all be up to you. the relays will have to be high current relays. I like bosch relays because they are cheap (online) and mass manufactured and therefore easy to find for an emergency replacement. you will need the SPDT type (five wire) at two per window. four windows? you need eight relays.
next is whether or not you want to use a 1-touch unit or not. the DEI 530T costs $80 USD and will do two windows independantly, up or down. if you want to run this, simply follow the directions for hookup. you will no longer need the relays if you use this module. ($160 for two modules or $8 for eight relays, or half if you have only 2 windows.)
wiring. very simple. fir the 530T you will need to use a positive system, for the relays, I recommend a negative switching system (though positive will work fine.) you can use ANY switch you want (which means you are not limited to purpose made aftermarket 'power window switches') as long as it is a "SPDT momentary center off" switch". I use bimmer 3 series switches, but dont recommend it as they are expensive. try to find something with a mounting flange to facilitate flush mounting.
your switches will have three wires. one "common", and two "outputs" which output the common when switched in either direction. if you buy car made window switches, they may have a fourth wire for lighting.
for a ground switch system, common is ground, for a positive switch system, common will be +12 volts. the relays get more complex. if you use bosch relays, they will have predesgnated leads using the following numbers:
http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/c.../relay-070.jpg
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.jpg
for the relay, pin 30 will be one lead of the window, 87a will be ground, and 87 is +12 volts (attached to a 20 amp fuse, and 1 fuse is good for all four windows).
pins 85 and 86 are attached to the switch and either ground or 12 volts, whatever the switch isnt. if you have a ground switched system, the relay needs 12 volts. if you have a 12 volt switched switch, the relay needs ground. the order (85 and 86) of the pins makes no difference.
if the windows go in the opposite direction, just switch which relays the switch is connected to. or the window leads to each relay. either way it'll reverse the window direction.
any questions, just post.
www.autoloc.com
click on products. you will find a myriad of available products.
the first will be some window motors. the easiest retrofit are the "universal" motor. I use these in my car, and they work wonderfully well. you will run both wires from the motor to where you keep your relays. the relays dont have to be located next to the switches, itll all be up to you. the relays will have to be high current relays. I like bosch relays because they are cheap (online) and mass manufactured and therefore easy to find for an emergency replacement. you will need the SPDT type (five wire) at two per window. four windows? you need eight relays.
next is whether or not you want to use a 1-touch unit or not. the DEI 530T costs $80 USD and will do two windows independantly, up or down. if you want to run this, simply follow the directions for hookup. you will no longer need the relays if you use this module. ($160 for two modules or $8 for eight relays, or half if you have only 2 windows.)
wiring. very simple. fir the 530T you will need to use a positive system, for the relays, I recommend a negative switching system (though positive will work fine.) you can use ANY switch you want (which means you are not limited to purpose made aftermarket 'power window switches') as long as it is a "SPDT momentary center off" switch". I use bimmer 3 series switches, but dont recommend it as they are expensive. try to find something with a mounting flange to facilitate flush mounting.
your switches will have three wires. one "common", and two "outputs" which output the common when switched in either direction. if you buy car made window switches, they may have a fourth wire for lighting.
for a ground switch system, common is ground, for a positive switch system, common will be +12 volts. the relays get more complex. if you use bosch relays, they will have predesgnated leads using the following numbers:
http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/c.../relay-070.jpg
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...osch/relay.jpg
for the relay, pin 30 will be one lead of the window, 87a will be ground, and 87 is +12 volts (attached to a 20 amp fuse, and 1 fuse is good for all four windows).
pins 85 and 86 are attached to the switch and either ground or 12 volts, whatever the switch isnt. if you have a ground switched system, the relay needs 12 volts. if you have a 12 volt switched switch, the relay needs ground. the order (85 and 86) of the pins makes no difference.
if the windows go in the opposite direction, just switch which relays the switch is connected to. or the window leads to each relay. either way it'll reverse the window direction.
any questions, just post.
next are door locks. solenoids can be found under "power door locks." on autoloc.
side note, dont buy a power trunk kit from autoloc. if you want an electronic trunk release, buy one from the dealership. its called an electronic trunk latch from a 2000 honda accord.
anyways, for the power locks you will need one solenoid per door, along with two relays and as many switches as youd like. or if you dont want seperate switches, you can actuate all locks with one switch. only two relays are needed unless you want the kind of unlocking system that unlocks just the drivers door, then every other door. I wont go into that here. again, if you want the passenger to have a seperate switch, they need one. I just put all my stuff in the center console so I dont need seperate switches for anything.
the setup is very similar to the power windows. rather than a motor you can mount anywhere, you will be limited by where you put the actuator. it needs to go in a spot thats condusive to tugging on the door lock.
it might be a good idea to buy parts from the dealership for the door lock. thats up to you, though. if you are able to mount the solenoid directly under the lock, more power to you. if you wan mount the solenoid right under the latch, congratz.
wiring is IDENTICAL to power windows. makes sense. except you wire ALL solenoids to the same 30 pin of their respective relay. that way when the one relay activates (only one of the two activates, one for lock, one for unlock) ALL solenoids react. simple!
side note, dont buy a power trunk kit from autoloc. if you want an electronic trunk release, buy one from the dealership. its called an electronic trunk latch from a 2000 honda accord.
anyways, for the power locks you will need one solenoid per door, along with two relays and as many switches as youd like. or if you dont want seperate switches, you can actuate all locks with one switch. only two relays are needed unless you want the kind of unlocking system that unlocks just the drivers door, then every other door. I wont go into that here. again, if you want the passenger to have a seperate switch, they need one. I just put all my stuff in the center console so I dont need seperate switches for anything.
the setup is very similar to the power windows. rather than a motor you can mount anywhere, you will be limited by where you put the actuator. it needs to go in a spot thats condusive to tugging on the door lock.
it might be a good idea to buy parts from the dealership for the door lock. thats up to you, though. if you are able to mount the solenoid directly under the lock, more power to you. if you wan mount the solenoid right under the latch, congratz.
wiring is IDENTICAL to power windows. makes sense. except you wire ALL solenoids to the same 30 pin of their respective relay. that way when the one relay activates (only one of the two activates, one for lock, one for unlock) ALL solenoids react. simple!
another note, your solenoid physical install must be done with care. cables can be used, but "pushing" needs to work as well as pulling, due to the locking mechanism. if you can get away with "direct drive", id highly recommend it.
I lied. the system from autoloc is proprietary. makes install easier, really. IF you have 2 wire solenoids that pop "up" and "down" based on polarity, much like a motor, then the wiring is identical to power windows.
if you buy the autoloc kit, the instruction manual is complete and very very clear.
if you buy the autoloc kit, the instruction manual is complete and very very clear.
oh man thanks that's quite lotta reading.
It gives me a lot of ideas but my option actually is to get those items from the wreckage honda civic. As you know here in dubai lot's of accident and I find some garage where they're selling those salvage parts, what I mean is the bolt-on applications at least it's OEM parts
.One thing that confuses me a lot is the wirings, Is the VTI wiring harness is different from the LXI?
Suppose if I want to have the power window and central locking , do you think I need an additional wiring harnees from the multiplex or it's already there. I really wanted to open the dashboard and see for it but i'm not that expert for disassembling those things
It gives me a lot of ideas but my option actually is to get those items from the wreckage honda civic. As you know here in dubai lot's of accident and I find some garage where they're selling those salvage parts, what I mean is the bolt-on applications at least it's OEM parts
.One thing that confuses me a lot is the wirings, Is the VTI wiring harness is different from the LXI?Suppose if I want to have the power window and central locking , do you think I need an additional wiring harnees from the multiplex or it's already there. I really wanted to open the dashboard and see for it but i'm not that expert for disassembling those things
wish I could answer your question. I already have power locks, and went aftermarket with the power windows. my assumption is that you would need quite a bit of additional wiring for either, but for the power windows in particular, based only on switch location.
the install would be a royal royal pain in the **** as well, once again because of controls location (getting that many wires to fit into the door wont be easy!)
the impossibility comes if Honda made different wire harnesses for each car. Meaning they may have the power window, power lock, and power mirror wiring totally integrated into the existing harness for all other functions. if this is the case, you would be screwed, and an aftermarket solution vastly cheaper to install.
given the simplicity of the power lock controls, I would probably see what was available for stock wiring. The OEM parts would certainly be a cinch to wire up with aftermarket wiring if neccesary!
But the power windows would be such a bear to run wiring into each door, I can't even imagine trying to copy an OEM installation, rather than piggybacking new wiring AND new controls. for this, I would (personally) plan to go the custom route with the control system.
now, IF you were able to get your hands on an OEM power window motor and lift assembly as well as snag a new doorpanel, more power to you! thats worth trying to install! But even if that turns out to be a breeze to install (I highly doubt, but its definitely possible!) I would still redesign and reroute ALL controls to the center console and emulate "BMW style" or "mercedes style" window control/operation.
especially with a DEI530T, most of the brainwork has been done for you already, and the wiring would be VERY easy. add one switch per window and you would have all the parts you needed.
the install would be a royal royal pain in the **** as well, once again because of controls location (getting that many wires to fit into the door wont be easy!)
the impossibility comes if Honda made different wire harnesses for each car. Meaning they may have the power window, power lock, and power mirror wiring totally integrated into the existing harness for all other functions. if this is the case, you would be screwed, and an aftermarket solution vastly cheaper to install.
given the simplicity of the power lock controls, I would probably see what was available for stock wiring. The OEM parts would certainly be a cinch to wire up with aftermarket wiring if neccesary!
But the power windows would be such a bear to run wiring into each door, I can't even imagine trying to copy an OEM installation, rather than piggybacking new wiring AND new controls. for this, I would (personally) plan to go the custom route with the control system.
now, IF you were able to get your hands on an OEM power window motor and lift assembly as well as snag a new doorpanel, more power to you! thats worth trying to install! But even if that turns out to be a breeze to install (I highly doubt, but its definitely possible!) I would still redesign and reroute ALL controls to the center console and emulate "BMW style" or "mercedes style" window control/operation.
especially with a DEI530T, most of the brainwork has been done for you already, and the wiring would be VERY easy. add one switch per window and you would have all the parts you needed.
here are a couple pics of mercedes center consoles. you can see the OEM windows are controlled from the center console, among other things:
http://www.plantdrive.com/newcatalog...tconsolelg.jpg
http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews...nsole_View.jpg
here is a Bimmer center console:
http://www.reviewsonline.com/auto/im...e/01RA0171.jpg
finally, here is my old center console:
http://www.objext.com/semi/Civic/windowswitches
http://www.plantdrive.com/newcatalog...tconsolelg.jpg
http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews...nsole_View.jpg
here is a Bimmer center console:
http://www.reviewsonline.com/auto/im...e/01RA0171.jpg
finally, here is my old center console:
http://www.objext.com/semi/Civic/windowswitches
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