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Old 09-22-2006
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Cool speaker conversion

It's my understanding from reading a few threads that the sedans use 6.5" rear speakers and coupes use 6x9s. Has any one have any success in fitting 6x9s into the sedans rear deck?

I got an 04 LX if it matters.
Old 09-22-2006
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i wouldn't know...but it would seem that with a little jigsaw action, anything is possible...don't know if the rear deck cover (the top piece with the 3rd brake light) would fit from a sedan to coupe....someone check on the part numbers
Old 09-22-2006
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Thanks. Where there's a will theres a way!
Old 09-24-2006
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why is there a will? its easy to find 6.5's that will outperform 6x9's for the same dollar, and 6x9's hit the top of their capabilities WAY before 6.5's.... (in otherwords, high end 6x9's cant hold a candle to high end 6.5's. not even close!)

now dont get me wrong, I think cutting up the rear deck could be a fantastic idea! you could clear out the space to cram in a pair of 8 or 10 inch subwoofers up there!

but 6x9's? I suggest not wasting your money.
Old 09-24-2006
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ya i like my 6.5 better. ive heard 6x9 before and its way too bassy without much definition.
Old 09-25-2006
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I just put some 5 1/4" with 1" tweets in the rear of my coupe. I think they sound so much better. Stock 6x9 ftl.
Old 09-25-2006
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Thanks for all the input guys. I guess I was thinking "bigger is better" but I know that is not always the case.

As far as 6.5's go do you guys have an opinion on coaxial vs triaxial speakers?

I know the three-way speakers should give better all around definitions and separation but they usually require more power for a given sound level.

I'm thinking two-way speakers would be better for me becuase I'm not planning on adding an amp unless I were to put in a sub. My thinking is that a set of coax will deliver more bass than triax speakers at a given sound level.

any thoughts?
Old 09-25-2006
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Think of sound as the waves from a pebble dropped in a pond. The waves are round not oval. So 6.5 will give you a better sound but a little less bass.
Old 09-25-2006
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I understand what your saying about the shape of the cone and I realize that 6.5s wont deliver as much in the lower frequencies as 6x9s.

What I'm looking at now is sticking w/ the stock 6.5s in a 2-way design instead of the more common 3-way configurations. Just from personal expierence, 2-ways seem to provide better bass than 3-ways at lower power levels without giving up too much in the upper frequencies.
Old 09-25-2006
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Exactly because with a 3 way power is spread across the mid-bass driver and 2 tweeters. With a 2 way it is only split between the mid-bass driver and a tweeter.
Old 09-25-2006
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I had jl audio 6.5's in my sedan and they were not even comparable to a 6x9, for something smaller the sound was more crisp and had more punch that many 6x9's i've heard
Old 09-25-2006
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for the rear, it doesnt matter 2 or 3 way. if you amp 6.5s they will still shake mirrors.
Old 09-25-2006
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For my coupe, I have Eclipse 3-way 6.5 in the front and I love them. They're unamp'd and they sound amazing. I have 2 12's so they don't deliver any bass because I turned it off for those. I also have 4-way 6x9 in the back...I hear them more tho.

Just find some nice 6.5 and you'll be good. (I'm a strong support of Eclipse mid range, since I love mine and they're unamp'd or alpine )
Old 09-25-2006
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i got 6.5 two way up front amped. you really need to install them properly to get that extra bass up front otherwise the door panel will muffle it out.
Old 09-26-2006
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Thanks for the good info guys.

Gearbox, can you elaborate on what you mean by installing the fronts properly? Are ther extra steps required besides using the speakers included mounting hardware?
Old 09-26-2006
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for the fronts, you really need to put some sound absorbing mat behind the speaker. i got some dynxorb pads and cut them in 1/2 to clear the safety bar. or you could try and get the deflex pads but they might not fit. But you need something there to reduce back-wave distortion. then you need to put at least one layer of dynamat on the metal door panel. its okay if there are a few holes for the actuator and wiring. Then when you install the speaker, usually they require spacers otherwise the back of the speaker will hit the window. i decided on a plastic spacer altho mdf is better (but it can get wet and rot). make sure when you install the spacer, it sits flush against the door metal. you need to seal it up. i used leftover dynamat pieces and just put them all around. if you arent in a hurry, put a thick bead of silicone all around. but then you cant install the speaker for 24hrs because the silicone vapor will eat the speaker surrounds. once thats done, you install the speaker on top of the spacer with screws. thats pretty much it. stuff will still rattle unfortunately since there is so much bass being made.
Old 09-26-2006
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Interesting. sounds like your making a small enclosure for the speaker. I know Crutchfield sells some premade baffles that seem like they may do about the same thing with a bit less effort.

Has anyone tried these before? They seem to be well rated on the Crutchfield site.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2wt8J0e...sp?g=762&avf=N
Old 09-26-2006
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ive heard it tends to make the bass sound weird, and there prolly isnt room behind there for it.
Old 09-26-2006
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I run kickpanels. No door speakers at all...
Old 09-26-2006
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well thats the best way for imaging...
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