I.C.E. (Audio) & Electrical Upgrades Post all your I.C.E. (In Car Entertainment) and wiring questions here (Audio, video etc.)

I need some schooling...

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Old Jun 11, 2006
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I need some schooling...

Alright guys, don't get too upset.

I know almost absolutly nothing about this. I looked up a bit on how to install subs and amps, but not enough to get by, by any means. I've look at this site for awhile and still have no clue, so here i go.

First off, I am driving an /04 honda civic si. Live in canada, and am hoping for alot of help for a new guy.

I've got 2 12" mtx subs and a rockford fosgate amp model 500bd that I need to install. I need to build a box, don't know where the subs should face (rear/front end, floor), how/where to mount the amp, wheather I should build a sealed or ported box, wheather it should have seperate chambers for each sub, etc...

I've also followed a DIY for installing my head unit, and have ran into a problem. First, the wiring does not match. Do I need to head to the store for a patch cord, or splice the new harness with the one from the deck (which was removed from my old car)? They are 2 totally different pins and have different amounts of wires. I've also read of the metra #70-1721 Honda/Acura 98-UP wiring harness. Will a local store carry this or will i have to order online or put in an order at the store? I realize that i will have to get a metra #99-7865 kit in order to hide the hideous gaps. Is this also ready available or would i have more luck ordering online?

I know that theses are alot of "open" questions, and that you will need more specifics, but until you guys ask, i don't know what other info to give you.

Thanks in advance for helping out the new guy.

Much appreciated,
chrisk
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Old Jun 11, 2006
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yes you would be better off getting the 98 & up honda/acura harness seing you dont know too much on how to install, then the wires will all match up. And even though we don't have power antenna's that go up and down, you will need to connect that blue wire with the blue wire on the headunit cause we have a booster in the back that needs power when the radio is on to better the reception. and don't connect the dimmer wire. other than that, the amp is pretty easy, just run a power wire (fused within 18" with the appropriate fuse for the wire) from the battery + all the way to the trunk (amp), then connect a short piece of same gauge wire from a good grounding point in the trunk to your amp, also you will need to run a remote wire and the set off RCA cables from the headunit (remote is blue with white strip wire(depending on your headunit)) all the way to your amp. You can cut into that remote wire and put a switch somewhere if you want to, if your headunit doesn't have a sub on/off feature. then your sub will be connected to your amp, and depending on what kind subs you have (4 ohm, 2 ohm, SVC, DVC) i could tell you more how to connect those on your amp. i think your amp is a mono, so it can probably handle a 2 ohm load and if your 2 subs are SVC 4 ohm, then connect them in parrelle (the 2 +'s together then to amp +, and the 2 -'s together then to amp -). Thats just assuming that those are the specs of your setup. as for passing the wires, run your power wire, & remote wire on the passenger side, and run the RCA cables on the driverside. there is a big rubber gromet under the hood on the firewall near the battery, so you can run your power wire in that hole.
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Old Jun 11, 2006
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Smile I need some schooling

You will need a Metra 99-7860 Turbokit for the radio. Thats the one for the 02 & up SI's. I have one that I bought by accident. It's dark gray almost black. I don't see a 99-7865 on metra's online site. It could be that they just came out with one in silver to match better. Be sure to check it out before you buy one,
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Old Jun 11, 2006
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Decks is in and looks great. I'm a little disappointed, as local stores haven't even heard of a mounting kit that doesn't include the pocket. I searched all over the city and ended up getting the kit with the pocket. I'll probably end up ordering one online. Now i've got the RCA wires already ran across my driver's side, and the remote waiting on the passenger's for this weeked when I finish up wiring the power and install my amp and subs.

Thanks a lot guys, but I've still got questions. Should I face my subs out or in towards the seats?

I've been told that there isn't enough room to let air pass through, and facing the subs out will deliver a better product. While I've seen some cars with subs facing the seats. Just looking for opinions. Porting the box sounds like the right decision, but should there be seperate chambers for the two 12" subs? And finally, what type of wiring should i use to connect my subs to the amp? Sounds like a stupid question to me, but should i be using regular speaker wire, or is there something else?

Should be the last set of questions.. lol

Thanks guys,
chrisk

Last edited by chrisk; Jun 11, 2006 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2006
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For sub positioning, there is no optimal placement, or optimal configuration for optimum sound. This is a subjective matter, and should be toyed with by you, the listener. Place your sub in every manner that you can think of (Facing into the cabin, facing the rear, facing the sides, facing up towards the deck lid, etc) and determine which is the best configuration, and placement for your ears. Generally, people place them, in a generic box mind you, towards the rear of the vehicle, approximately 6 inches from the trunk lid in order to reflect the sound off of the lid. Some, however, like the placement of the subs facing into the cabin right behind the rear seats. Again, it's all subjective, and a matter of preference. JL Audio's tutorial section has a lot of very good advice on all topics audio related. It's located here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=127 I find their section on boxes especially informative, and it dispells the myth of the magic box rather well. The tutorial section for subs and boxes is located here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=141 That tutorial about no magic box existing is located here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=146

As to the box. If you're constructing this as your first sub box, I can not advocate building a ported box, as it's more difficult to figure the parameters, port length, etc for an optimal design. Building a sealed box is a much easier task to undertake for a first project, and would likely produce better results than a first build box that was ported. Make sure you build to manufacturer's specs. I, however, especially since you're a beginner, would have to advocate purchasing a prefab box from the manufacturer, or from an audio shop that is built to manufacturer's specs. You'll get more dynamic results than you would building your first box and hoping for the best. Another thing to consider is the actual sub you're using. What type of box does the manufacturer recommend? A sealed box, perhaps, could be better suited, as the sub could be designed for such. Ported versus sealed is an ongoing debate. Neither design is superior, and anyone that argues that it is is a moron. Box design is driver dependant.


Another thing that might help, as there are lots of solid tips for the beginner, is the following post, originally started by diskreet. Sure, there are some points in there that are questionable, but there are good replies, and good information abounds in the topic. http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...dvocate+solder
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Old Jun 12, 2006
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Good tips. Personally I think you'll have better success firing back. I fire up but our cars are made of plastic and there isn't enough Dynamat in the world to keep this car quiet.
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