Looking for best SPL and SQ for coupe's
Looking for best SPL and SQ for coupe's
I got an 03 EX and ive been through many dif systems, cant get the "quake" im lookin for. Anyone got a sick *** amp/sub combo they can fill me in on? I like LOUD music
Last time I had this much fun some furniture got broken!
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I have a JL 500/1 attached to a HO210R W3v2 (2 10" W3v2s in a JL made box) sub/box combo.
Pounds like hell and is super clear. If you want real loud music the 12" model should just barely fit.

Click the link to the custom trunk DIY in my sig for more pics.
Seriously its very clean, especially for a ported box, and very loud
Pounds like hell and is super clear. If you want real loud music the 12" model should just barely fit.
Click the link to the custom trunk DIY in my sig for more pics.
Seriously its very clean, especially for a ported box, and very loud
you might be looking for the wrong frequencies. "impact" for kickdrum can be found in the 800 Hz region. "body" of bass guitar is in the hundreds of Hz.
bass is really best for ambience of musical instrumentation, and holds little of the bulk of information.
if you are looking for the best bass peformance, look to cover your lower mids all the way through subbass, and not just subbass.
I thikn youll find with some 6's or 8's designed for upper subbass sealed in the rear deck combined with some high powerhandling midrange 6's in your doors to accompany whatever component set youve got at the moment coviering midrange in kickpanels, as well as the large sub-bass subwoofer installed in the trunk, with every driver powered by as much power as you are willing to pay for, youll find your loud music will stretch MUCH much further than if you cover sub-bass or bass alone.
For best overall performance at a super super loud package, I would recommend the following gear:
keeping what subwoofer and front speakers you already have, I'd empty the rear deck to vent all noise in the trunk into the cabin. every bit helps.
Then I'd add a pair of 8" tangband subwoofers, probably sealed. I would have to keep the install open for these, I dont know what would work best, sealed, ported, forward firing, or rear firing. each permutation would have ot be experimented with.
they would be wired together and powered by approximately 4-600 rms total. Next comes the DDW6.5's that would go in the doors. You'll need an inch to an inch and a quarter spacer to get them to fit. this will also require cutting out the plastic ring on the interior of the door panel. I make no guarantees that they will fit Q-logic kickpanels, but that is the alternative if you are unwilling to break too deeply into the door.
at this time, we will stiffen the door to better aid energy transfer into the car. the more dead the door, the louder it gets in the car. Energy transfer is better.
this will involve deadening the outer skin first, then covering as many holes of the inner skin as possible. the door latch will still need ot be allowed to operate, and youll want all the panel popper holes clear and open so you can fit the door panel back on. Covering the holes seals the door better, to avoid cancellation of the rear wave into the cabin. These rearwave interactions hurt overall loudness (and is why a subwoofer is louder inside a box than open to the air! you can test this for yourself!)
the DD w6.5's will get whatever you can afford. between 125 rms ad 200 rms each would be ideal.
now that the doors are done, you can put your old loud stage speakers into Qlogic kickpanels. They will look good, and give you the extra real estate you need for the extra 6.5's. If you bought a 125x4 amp, you can use the extra amplifier channels to power these speakers.
lastly, you will need a crossover, if your amplifeirs do not have the capability. You can use whatever you want, including the amplifiers, but keep in mind that no mater what, the TOTAL frequency distribution needs to have ALL filters present. here is a good starting point to figure out best crossover points. as you hear distiortion at high volume, you'll adjust these cutoffs to suit the sound:
Subwoofer: 50Hz and below
tangband 8's: 50-100 Hz
DD w6.5's: ~110-2000 Hz
current stage speakers: ~150Hz up
the small bits of tweaking ive recommended, from tangband 8 firing direction (cutting the rear deck would be a nice location as well, complete with suspended MDF sealed boxes!) all the way to the crossoverpoints, will result in a system that performs to such a degree that noone will ever want to sit in the car at full tilt. ever.
you can get the tangband 8's from www.partsexpress.com
you can get the DD's direct from dd at www.ddaudio.com (phone order)
you can get advice how to get the Qforms from other folks here who have them.
you can get the sound deadener from www.secondskinaudio.com . I recommend a combination of damplifier and the sludge for easiest application in your doors.
you can get a 125x4 amplifier from www.ikesound.com, look under PPI or precision power amplifiers, should be the 1000.4
bass is really best for ambience of musical instrumentation, and holds little of the bulk of information.
if you are looking for the best bass peformance, look to cover your lower mids all the way through subbass, and not just subbass.
I thikn youll find with some 6's or 8's designed for upper subbass sealed in the rear deck combined with some high powerhandling midrange 6's in your doors to accompany whatever component set youve got at the moment coviering midrange in kickpanels, as well as the large sub-bass subwoofer installed in the trunk, with every driver powered by as much power as you are willing to pay for, youll find your loud music will stretch MUCH much further than if you cover sub-bass or bass alone.
For best overall performance at a super super loud package, I would recommend the following gear:
keeping what subwoofer and front speakers you already have, I'd empty the rear deck to vent all noise in the trunk into the cabin. every bit helps.
Then I'd add a pair of 8" tangband subwoofers, probably sealed. I would have to keep the install open for these, I dont know what would work best, sealed, ported, forward firing, or rear firing. each permutation would have ot be experimented with.
they would be wired together and powered by approximately 4-600 rms total. Next comes the DDW6.5's that would go in the doors. You'll need an inch to an inch and a quarter spacer to get them to fit. this will also require cutting out the plastic ring on the interior of the door panel. I make no guarantees that they will fit Q-logic kickpanels, but that is the alternative if you are unwilling to break too deeply into the door.
at this time, we will stiffen the door to better aid energy transfer into the car. the more dead the door, the louder it gets in the car. Energy transfer is better.
this will involve deadening the outer skin first, then covering as many holes of the inner skin as possible. the door latch will still need ot be allowed to operate, and youll want all the panel popper holes clear and open so you can fit the door panel back on. Covering the holes seals the door better, to avoid cancellation of the rear wave into the cabin. These rearwave interactions hurt overall loudness (and is why a subwoofer is louder inside a box than open to the air! you can test this for yourself!)
the DD w6.5's will get whatever you can afford. between 125 rms ad 200 rms each would be ideal.
now that the doors are done, you can put your old loud stage speakers into Qlogic kickpanels. They will look good, and give you the extra real estate you need for the extra 6.5's. If you bought a 125x4 amp, you can use the extra amplifier channels to power these speakers.
lastly, you will need a crossover, if your amplifeirs do not have the capability. You can use whatever you want, including the amplifiers, but keep in mind that no mater what, the TOTAL frequency distribution needs to have ALL filters present. here is a good starting point to figure out best crossover points. as you hear distiortion at high volume, you'll adjust these cutoffs to suit the sound:
Subwoofer: 50Hz and below
tangband 8's: 50-100 Hz
DD w6.5's: ~110-2000 Hz
current stage speakers: ~150Hz up
the small bits of tweaking ive recommended, from tangband 8 firing direction (cutting the rear deck would be a nice location as well, complete with suspended MDF sealed boxes!) all the way to the crossoverpoints, will result in a system that performs to such a degree that noone will ever want to sit in the car at full tilt. ever.
you can get the tangband 8's from www.partsexpress.com
you can get the DD's direct from dd at www.ddaudio.com (phone order)
you can get advice how to get the Qforms from other folks here who have them.
you can get the sound deadener from www.secondskinaudio.com . I recommend a combination of damplifier and the sludge for easiest application in your doors.
you can get a 125x4 amplifier from www.ikesound.com, look under PPI or precision power amplifiers, should be the 1000.4
I have 2 L7 12's in a ported box powered by a Kicker KX1200.1. It is LOUD!!!! I dont know if you are familiar with decible and hertz levels, but it hit 145.2 decibles at 66Hz in my 02 Coupe.
And Kicker isnt outrageously expensive. By the way the new Kicker amp that is comparable to mine is the ZX1000.1. If you want pics or anything hit me up.
_Blake_
And Kicker isnt outrageously expensive. By the way the new Kicker amp that is comparable to mine is the ZX1000.1. If you want pics or anything hit me up._Blake_
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