Rep Power: 0

I have an 2003 Honda Civic 2dr and I just had a compustar remote start put in by my local compustar dealer. When I dropped the car off the ABS light was not on but when I picked it up the light was on. I am wondering if anyone has had an issue similar to this before and what the solution was. I am planning on calling my dealership on monday but I just wanted to get some advice ahead of time. I did take my car to a slick parking lot and tested the ABS and it seems to be working just fine as I felt and heard it kick in. Thanks for the help.

 
Rep Power: 278

Take it back to the dealer where you installed the remote starter and tell them to fix it.

 
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The dealer said that he thinks that its just something that they had tripped and needs to be reset. So is this something that is at fault with the installation then?

 
Rep Power: 424

I'm going to move this to electronics, this sounds like an install problem with the alarm, not a brake problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

take it back to the audioshop that installed your remote start car alarm and have them fix it.

im sure its just a loose or tampered wiring problem they mistakenly done during the remote start install. you shouldnt have to go to the dealership and get it under warranty quite yet because we all know how long warranty work takes.

 
Rep Power: 0

The reason why it's turning is actually quite a simple one. When the remote start was installed the second ignition line, which I believe is yellow in color, was not connected by the installer. OR it was connected but it came apart.

Judging by the response you received from the install shop they don't have a clue.

 
Rep Power: 0

they caused the problem, they fix it.

 
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Well I went back to the audioshop today and they checked the wiring and said that there was no problem there. They have agreed to pay what it costs to have honda fix it. I guess I am lucky there. Also the ABS light comes on and stays on no matter if the car is started by remote start or by the key. Not sure if that makes a difference.

 
Rep Power: 0

If the light didn't turn on before remote starting, but it started to light up after remote starting it's most likely the second ignition wasn't connected.

Either way, they're being reasonable which is great service on their part.

 
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Yeah it is really nice, I have had all of my electronics installed by them and this is the first problem i have ever had.

Also the second ignition can anyone explain about the second ignition wire, is that on the compustar or is it a honda wire. If someone could explain a little that would be a great help. Thanks again.

 
Rep Power: 0

Most vehicles have an extra ignition wire at the ignition tumbler that needs to be energized when remote starting. This wire usually powers up other functions in the vehicles such as the ABS system in Hondas. Honda and Acura usually have one extra and it's yellow in color.

Most manufacturers have more than one ignition wire that needs to be energized. Another example is GM, which can have up to three wires. In some of their vehicles, if not all, if you don't energize them automatic transmissions won't even shift out of first gear. I know their trucks will experience this and serious damamge can occur.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well the car goes in tommorrow at 9am to have the oil changed and the diagnostic done on the ABS. However I think they won't find anything as I checked with my installer and asked him if he connected both ignition wires and he said that all of his wiring diagrams only showed one ignition wire. Guess I will find out if I get to go back tommorrow and say I told you so. thanks for all the input here, i will keep you all updated.

 
Rep Power: 812

i actually cut my ignition wire so the car will arm when my turbo timer is counting down. all that happened is the auto door lock, dome light switch, and starter kill got disabled.

 
Rep Power: 0

Here's the info on the car and it actually has two accessory wires too and the yellow wire I was talking about is actually on the older Honda's...

Battery WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 1 WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Accessory 2 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter 1 BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Anti-Theft Type TRANSPONDER
Anti-Theft Descript AN RF SIGNAL ACTIVATED SYSTEM
Key Sense RED/WHITE (-) GREEN FACTORY ALARM PLUG ABOVE DRIVER'S KICK
Neutral Safety LIGHT GREEN (-) AT GEAR SELECTOR SWITCH
Tachometer BLUE (AC) AT PLUG NEAR VEHICLE BATTERY
Speed Sense WHITE/GREEN (AC) PCM, VSS CONN A (31PIN), PIN#18
Parking Lights RED/BLACK (+) IN HARNESS TO RIGHT OF STEERING COLUMN
Low Crr. Pk Lights BLUE (-) GREEN FACTORY ALARM PLUG ABOVE DRIVER'S KICK
Brake Lights WHITE/BLACK (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Lights GREEN (+) AT VEHICLE FUSE PANEL OR DRIVERS KICK PANEL
Horn ORANGE/2 SLIVER DOTS (-)

 
Rep Power: 0

You mean you cut the ignition wire going to the alarm?
You can build a simple circuit using a relay to disable that ignition wire only when the turbo timer is on to allow you to arm the alarm. It's the way I have done it in the past. It would be the better way to go since now it would be poretty difficult for you to disarm the alarm if you lose the remote or the battery dies in it.
You need the ignition for valet mode.... unless you already knew that, I which point I'll end my post.

 
Rep Power: 265

Listen man if your interested in what they did use this link
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~profuse007/id3.html
but sounds like you don't care because they are going to fix it for you anyway that is why professional install is good
enjoy the remote start