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I have decided to make a subwoofer box at school, but i donno where to start so I have some questions?
1. What size Subs should I get. two 10", two 12", one 10" or one 12". I just want sound that is better then my stock and it doesnt have to be really loud, just something to make rides not to boring and i listen to like rock and techno basicly.
2. Will i need to get an amp, Fuses, Capacitors?
3. How would i wire it all and i see that boxes at the stores have like a plug on the side of the box. Do i need to have this? or can i just wire from the sub to the amp/deck?

Thanks

 
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oh man u got alot to learn!! how about u make the box and we'll go from there?? IMO make a 12" ported

 
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1. well i would say two 10" subs generally sound clearer that 1 12" sub. I guess it really depends on the space your willing to give up along with how much you want to spend for your equipment.
2. Yea you will need and AMP along with all the wiring, I dont think you would need a cap.
3. The sub has to be amped. To build a good box i assume you need those "plugs" on the side. YOu could build a box and drill holes for the wires and seal it with silicone, But that doesnt allow you to easily unhook the sub from the amp.

 
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1. Ok first off 2 ten's is usauly the best way to go in any small to medium vehicle. A general rule of thumb is 10" = .75 cubic feet per sub (for a sealed box). This will give you plenty of what I like to call "Positive low end renforcement. Make sure youface the ten's toward the back of the car if they're in the trunk. Facing them forward into the back seat will just muffle them and the kick drum and low toms in music will sound sloppy.

2. Since speakers in general convert an AC voltage into motion the bigger the speaker the more power required. You will need an amp to push them. If you decide on 10's an average amount of juice would be about 100-150 watts per speaker (RMS). I'd shoot for a 60 amp fuse under the hood. Make sure it's with in 8" of the battery connection. On a stock Civic alternater and a decent battery don't sweat the cap until your running 600 or more watts to the subs.

3. You don't need a connector on the back of the sub box. All it will do is leak air (this is a prob on a sealed enclosure), and cause another possible point of failure.

Hope this helps!!!

Boombox

 
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Man I have to find this site for boxes. one sec.

 
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2 10's are the best. i made a box for my car but it was a custom trunk, each side had speakers a door for my tire and a backwall with my amp. 1st off measure 10 times, make a template outta cardboard if u have to. and another important rule make sure the box is sealed and opening will kill ur sound. if you want i have a dual 12 inch in my room i can give you measurements it fit in my 2 door 04 fine, problem will be finding back wall part for wires to be lead out of.

good luck with it

 
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Here we go:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

 
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1. Being as you listen to rock/techno as your primary music, I'd be incline to recommend a single 10. The single 10 is also based on the fact that I don't see you as the type of person that wants loud, block rocking bass, being as you want it to be better than stock, as you put it.

2. Amp yes, fuses yes, cap no. The amp should have an internal/external fuse. You still want an external, in-line fuse, meaning a fuse in your power wire, within 18 inches of the battery. This is more of a protective measure than anything, as it protects your amp from being fried from spikes, etc. Capacitors, no, they are never needed. Sometimes, however, they're a cheaper fix to dimming than anything. Problem is, there is no gurantee they'll effect/cure the dimming. Being as I recommended a single 10, you probably don't want to break the bank being a student, so you're not gonna buy a top of the line, power hungry sub.

3. There are amp wiring guides here, so I won't go into that. As far as wiring the sub to the amp. Terminal cups (the thing you describe) are what most people use. They make connecting and disconnecting the amp/sub very easy, as well as making wring changes, etc much easier. You can, in theory, wire the sub without the use of terminal cups by drilling a hole for teh wire to go through, into the box, then siliconing around it. I prefer terminal cups, as it's much cleaner, and easier. Just run a bead of silicone, or cut a rubbet gasket to surround the terminal cup to provide a good seal.

After all that, I'd be inclined to also say to buy your sub before building the sub box. You want to build according to the theile small parameters of teh driver. Meaning, you want to build to the optimum specs of the sub you own, not just throw together a general box, as you won't get optimum sound.