*updated Pioneer 860MP Cannot Be Extended.
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*updated Pioneer 860MP Cannot Be Extended.
Okay so many of you might know that i did the faceplate relocation http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65172&highlight=faceplate+relocat ion
a while back.
Then Theives smashed my car and tried to yank it http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=229033
My faceplate has shorted out and does not function properly anymore. I want to get a new headunit and redo the entire thing.
Now the first time i did it i had to run TEN 16 guage *(im not sure of its gauge but its standard sized home audio wire) to the faceplate from the headunit. THese wires bunched together was hella thick and inconveient to use.
Would Cat-5 (lan wire) wire be okay to use? I beleive a Cat-5 Lan wire has 8 wires inside of it, i need 10 total. So i plan on just using 2 cat-5 Wires to connect the faceplate -> headunit. 1 wire per row of pins.
Not sure if this would work?
My concerns:
1. Are the guages of the wires inside the cat-5 wire thick enough? Im sure the faceplate doesnt use or pull alot of amps volts.
2. Do those wires solder well? Would they easily solder to the pins of the faceplate / headunit?
I hope someone knows the answer to this!
Thanks!
a while back.
Then Theives smashed my car and tried to yank it http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=229033
My faceplate has shorted out and does not function properly anymore. I want to get a new headunit and redo the entire thing.
Now the first time i did it i had to run TEN 16 guage *(im not sure of its gauge but its standard sized home audio wire) to the faceplate from the headunit. THese wires bunched together was hella thick and inconveient to use.
Would Cat-5 (lan wire) wire be okay to use? I beleive a Cat-5 Lan wire has 8 wires inside of it, i need 10 total. So i plan on just using 2 cat-5 Wires to connect the faceplate -> headunit. 1 wire per row of pins.
Not sure if this would work?
My concerns:
1. Are the guages of the wires inside the cat-5 wire thick enough? Im sure the faceplate doesnt use or pull alot of amps volts.
2. Do those wires solder well? Would they easily solder to the pins of the faceplate / headunit?
I hope someone knows the answer to this!
Thanks!
Last edited by AzNmiKex215; Oct 19, 2005 at 08:06 AM.
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i think they should be thick enough seeing as the wires are just signal wires, you might want to find out which wires are the +12 and ground and run a bit thinker wires for those.
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Rep Power: 0 i wouldn't use anything less than 18 gauge wire just to be safe...
cat5 is kinda like telephone wire it is only made to send about .5 volts through it
cat5 is kinda like telephone wire it is only made to send about .5 volts through it
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Actually i was looking around and have found this thing
Its THERmostat wire. It seems to be perfect. 2 wires 5 peices each should be good. and its 18 gauge?
Anyone know of any other wire similar to this?
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Rep Power: 334 This is the headunit that i want Pioneer Premier 860MP
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=2700#
It opens in a auto slide down function. My MAIN concern is how does the faceplate actually connect (electricaly) to the headunit? I need to see it before i can purchase it for the ceiling faceplate relocation. i need to see if its possible to extend the connection between the faceplate and headunit itself.
For comparison this is the way my old headunit worked.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3536.html
It flipped down and the pins were right there! i just had to solder wires connecting the corresponding pins!
So does anyone have a headunit similar to the 860? That slides down open like that? How does the back of it actually connect with the faceplate? How are the pins setup? I would LOVE YOU FOREVER if someone could get me some pictures of it!!!!
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=2700#
It opens in a auto slide down function. My MAIN concern is how does the faceplate actually connect (electricaly) to the headunit? I need to see it before i can purchase it for the ceiling faceplate relocation. i need to see if its possible to extend the connection between the faceplate and headunit itself.
For comparison this is the way my old headunit worked.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3536.html
It flipped down and the pins were right there! i just had to solder wires connecting the corresponding pins!
So does anyone have a headunit similar to the 860? That slides down open like that? How does the back of it actually connect with the faceplate? How are the pins setup? I would LOVE YOU FOREVER if someone could get me some pictures of it!!!!
Last edited by AzNmiKex215; Oct 10, 2005 at 04:41 PM.
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Rep Power: 334 Yea, i decided to use the Conduit wire i showed above. I bought 50ft at home depot. 18 guage with 5 conduits (wires inside). It would work perfectly.
Do you have any info regarding the 860 headunit? or anyones of that "slide down" style?
Do you have any info regarding the 860 headunit? or anyones of that "slide down" style?
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I'd personally trust CAT-5 cabling to handle the signals. There are ethernet based devices that get all their power from the CAT-5 cable while also using it as a 10/100/1000 Mbps data connection. I believe power over ethernet (PoE) generally supplies 48V (IEEE standard) and can deliver over 10 or 12 watts of power over standard CAT-5. This equates to approximately 0.25 amps. (P=I*V)
Also, it's basically a worldwide standard for wired data networks. It's sturdy and robust enough for running long lenghts of cable. I'd trust it for your application. I highly doubt the faceplate would pull enough power to make much of a difference. When in doubt, hook up a multimeter and measure the current yourself.
-Dacali
Side note: Voltage is just an electrical potential difference. There's potential there, but it doesn't mean that there is any current. In other words, voltage doesn't go through anything. Current is the measure of the amount of charge going through a section per unit time (C/s). That's what I'd be more concerned about.
Also, it's basically a worldwide standard for wired data networks. It's sturdy and robust enough for running long lenghts of cable. I'd trust it for your application. I highly doubt the faceplate would pull enough power to make much of a difference. When in doubt, hook up a multimeter and measure the current yourself.
-Dacali
Side note: Voltage is just an electrical potential difference. There's potential there, but it doesn't mean that there is any current. In other words, voltage doesn't go through anything. Current is the measure of the amount of charge going through a section per unit time (C/s). That's what I'd be more concerned about.
i'd agree with Dacali. i work with CAT-5 cable everyday, it's enuf for your application, since it's only from faceplate to the h/u. and it's only generally around 5v. and very small amperage. but since u've chosen the termo cables it should be fine, just that i think it's too thick.
the pitfall of using solid cable would be the resistance is too much, increasing the wattage, that's why for audio cables they use stranded thick cables instead of one thick cable. but who cares, it's only a few feet. most is only about 1w increase.
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Rep Power: 334 well as far as wiring, cat5 is still definitely an option. I actually remember someone PMing me about relocating their faceplate and they used CAT-5 cable!
Now hopefully the headunit i want is extendable. I am gonna try to go find a place where i can see it in person before I buy it.
BIG THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS INPUTS!!!!
Now hopefully the headunit i want is extendable. I am gonna try to go find a place where i can see it in person before I buy it.
BIG THANKS TO ALL YOU GUYS INPUTS!!!!
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Rep Power: 0 Good luck with whatever choice you make!
Just some clarification. PoE uses four of the eight wires. Under the IEEE specification, it can supply a maximum current of 350mA (.350 A) with maximum power of 16.8W. Keep in mind that includes the supply and return path (2 wires each). As long as the +V and GND on the faceplate uses less than 175mA (350 divided by 2), you should be fine. If it uses more, just use a pair of wires for the connection instead.
Electrical differences between stranded and solid wire probably won't make much of a difference in term of power usage. Stranded wires will be easier to work with though since they're more flexible.
-Dacali
Just some clarification. PoE uses four of the eight wires. Under the IEEE specification, it can supply a maximum current of 350mA (.350 A) with maximum power of 16.8W. Keep in mind that includes the supply and return path (2 wires each). As long as the +V and GND on the faceplate uses less than 175mA (350 divided by 2), you should be fine. If it uses more, just use a pair of wires for the connection instead.
Electrical differences between stranded and solid wire probably won't make much of a difference in term of power usage. Stranded wires will be easier to work with though since they're more flexible.
-Dacali
Last edited by Dacali; Oct 10, 2005 at 08:58 PM.
Originally Posted by AzNmiKex215
This is the headunit that i want Pioneer Premier 860MP
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=2700#
It opens in a auto slide down function. My MAIN concern is how does the faceplate actually connect (electricaly) to the headunit? I need to see it before i can purchase it for the ceiling faceplate relocation. i need to see if its possible to extend the connection between the faceplate and headunit itself.
For comparison this is the way my old headunit worked.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3536.html
It flipped down and the pins were right there! i just had to solder wires connecting the corresponding pins!
So does anyone have a headunit similar to the 860? That slides down open like that? How does the back of it actually connect with the faceplate? How are the pins setup? I would LOVE YOU FOREVER if someone could get me some pictures of it!!!!
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=2700#
It opens in a auto slide down function. My MAIN concern is how does the faceplate actually connect (electricaly) to the headunit? I need to see it before i can purchase it for the ceiling faceplate relocation. i need to see if its possible to extend the connection between the faceplate and headunit itself.
For comparison this is the way my old headunit worked.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3536.html
It flipped down and the pins were right there! i just had to solder wires connecting the corresponding pins!
So does anyone have a headunit similar to the 860? That slides down open like that? How does the back of it actually connect with the faceplate? How are the pins setup? I would LOVE YOU FOREVER if someone could get me some pictures of it!!!!
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Rep Power: 334 Okay so i went to the store today and checked it out in person. It IS POSSIBLE to extend the faceplate. It actually looks easier to do becuase no "eject" toggle switch would be needed.
However, it has many more pins, about 17. AND it has a motorized arms on each side i have to worry about.
I did order it for $330.00 on ebay vs $530.00 they wanted at the STORE! I will post a full DIY thingie with my headunit!
However, it has many more pins, about 17. AND it has a motorized arms on each side i have to worry about.
I did order it for $330.00 on ebay vs $530.00 they wanted at the STORE! I will post a full DIY thingie with my headunit!
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Rep Power: 334 My headunit may come tommorow, but if not im sure it will be here by Tuesday at the latest.
If your going to attempt this You must:
1. Have a strong stomach.
2. Have a good soldering iron.
3. Have soldering experience! The area you will be working with is tiny!
I really hope i dont end up breaking my Headunit before i ever even install it!
If your going to attempt this You must:
1. Have a strong stomach.
2. Have a good soldering iron.
3. Have soldering experience! The area you will be working with is tiny!
I really hope i dont end up breaking my Headunit before i ever even install it!
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From: PhILLy, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 334 Yea im gonna go invest money in a good soldering iron. Can anyone recommend something good? I got a 8 dollar cheapo 15 watt pencil one from radioshack.
I need a good one with possible variable power? a stand would be nice too.
I need a good one with possible variable power? a stand would be nice too.
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2k1civic.com O. G.
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From: PhILLy, Pennsylvania, US
Rep Power: 334 Is there any local stores that have it? Radio shack doesnt have much variety.
*EDIT - Is this one here at lowes okay? Weller Self Igniting Portable Butane Iron http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...123280-273-P2C
*EDIT - Is this one here at lowes okay? Weller Self Igniting Portable Butane Iron http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...123280-273-P2C
Last edited by AzNmiKex215; Oct 13, 2005 at 09:46 PM.
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Originally Posted by Dacali
I'd personally trust CAT-5 cabling to handle the signals. There are ethernet based devices that get all their power from the CAT-5 cable while also using it as a 10/100/1000 Mbps data connection. I believe power over ethernet (PoE) generally supplies 48V (IEEE standard) and can deliver over 10 or 12 watts of power over standard CAT-5. This equates to approximately 0.25 amps. (P=I*V)
Also, it's basically a worldwide standard for wired data networks. It's sturdy and robust enough for running long lenghts of cable. I'd trust it for your application. I highly doubt the faceplate would pull enough power to make much of a difference. When in doubt, hook up a multimeter and measure the current yourself.
-Dacali
Side note: Voltage is just an electrical potential difference. There's potential there, but it doesn't mean that there is any current. In other words, voltage doesn't go through anything. Current is the measure of the amount of charge going through a section per unit time (C/s). That's what I'd be more concerned about.
Also, it's basically a worldwide standard for wired data networks. It's sturdy and robust enough for running long lenghts of cable. I'd trust it for your application. I highly doubt the faceplate would pull enough power to make much of a difference. When in doubt, hook up a multimeter and measure the current yourself.
-Dacali
Side note: Voltage is just an electrical potential difference. There's potential there, but it doesn't mean that there is any current. In other words, voltage doesn't go through anything. Current is the measure of the amount of charge going through a section per unit time (C/s). That's what I'd be more concerned about.
current is not a problem but there are lots of other things that could cause distortion of the signals traveling on the wires...
the type of communication used by the headunit to the faceplate will prolly determine if the long cable length will work or not...
