installed new amp, think i'm getting engine noise?
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installed new amp, think i'm getting engine noise?
i just put in a new amp and now when my stereo turns on, i hear a static sound coming from the speakers and as i give it the gas i hear a whine (kinda like a supercharger whine) that will get louder and softer as i give it more and less gas. this would be engine noise right? how do i get rid of it? i checked my grounds and they are secure and connected properly. what else can i try?
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From: Yuma
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keep the speaker wire away from the power wire. if you ran your speaker wire and power wire along the same side of the car, that could be it. run speaker and rca's on one side, power on the other side.
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From: ~Nor Cal~209~
Rep Power: 290 Try adjusting the gain on the amp could be too high, also make sure your RCA's are not touching metal, I had a problem for a long time because my RCA's were touching metal under my back seat...shielded the wire and presto!! Good luck!!
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From: Bay Area, CA
Rep Power: 402 i think its all of them. the speaker wire isnt touching the power except for maybe4-6 inches of it where i zipped tied them together. didnt think that little of contact would matter? guess i'll have to play around with it tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by KnocturnalEM2
Try adjusting the gain on the amp could be too high,
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Rep Power: 402 ahh another good idea, i'll check behind the dash too, i've just been checking in the trunk.
Drunken Master-7thgen Ninja
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From: georgia
Rep Power: 337 hey try tuning your amp. i would bet money it just needs to be tuned correctly. and yes tuning includes your gain. you need to play with it to see how you personally like it and when you find that it should not hiss anymore. have fun.
There's also a chance your amp is defective (I realize this is the simplest explanation).
I had a Jensen 4-channel that had engine noise, but only through one channel-turned out it burned out a capacitor.
I had a Jensen 4-channel that had engine noise, but only through one channel-turned out it burned out a capacitor.
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From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 787 try a different ground, it may be secure but it may be a bad ground
btw I run my speaker wire right alongside my 1/0 power and no problems
btw I run my speaker wire right alongside my 1/0 power and no problems
the whine ur getting is alternator whine, problem is ur RCAs aren't that good and they're near metal. to fix it get dual shielded rca's and get rid of ur old ones, and for good measure, u may want to get a ground loop isolator to further eliminate signal noise.
If u checked all ur grounds, and if ur rca's aren't on the same side as ur power wire, and ur still getting alternator whine, then i'm right. try it out.
If u checked all ur grounds, and if ur rca's aren't on the same side as ur power wire, and ur still getting alternator whine, then i'm right. try it out.
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Rep Power: 402 if i have 2 amps that need 2 grounds, should i use different grounding points or the same point?
Originally Posted by EnProceso
if i have 2 amps that need 2 grounds, should i use different grounding points or the same point?
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From: Bay Area, CA
Rep Power: 402 ok, i reconnected the ground and adjusted the gain on the amp and that pretty much took care of the static sound but i still get the whine. should i switch out the rca cables? my friend has a hook up with JL audio stuff and he gave me some rca cables but taking a look at them, they dont look like they have a reflective shield on them.
is it bad if i drive around with the alternator whine? i wont have time to switch cables until monday or so.
is it bad if i drive around with the alternator whine? i wont have time to switch cables until monday or so.
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From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 787 turn your gain ALL the way down and see what happens
i dont see why it would be bad
do a ghetto run down the middle of your car, over the back seat and into the trunk, just to test... no need to go ahead and swap them right out if you don't know for sure that that is the problem right?
i dont see why it would be bad
do a ghetto run down the middle of your car, over the back seat and into the trunk, just to test... no need to go ahead and swap them right out if you don't know for sure that that is the problem right?
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From: Bay Area, CA
Rep Power: 402 i did that already, thats how i came to the conclusion. i had a spare set of street wire rca's and hooked them up, the noise was gone, put the one i have now back on and the noise is there. i'm 90% sure thats the problem.
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From: B.C., Canada
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Originally Posted by ashtonp
the whine ur getting is alternator whine, problem is ur RCAs aren't that good and they're near metal. to fix it get dual shielded rca's and get rid of ur old ones, and for good measure, u may want to get a ground loop isolator to further eliminate signal noise.
If u checked all ur grounds, and if ur rca's aren't on the same side as ur power wire, and ur still getting alternator whine, then i'm right. try it out.
If u checked all ur grounds, and if ur rca's aren't on the same side as ur power wire, and ur still getting alternator whine, then i'm right. try it out.
ground loop isolators are no good either.... sure they work but all they are is a bandpass crossover to eliminate the range of frequencies that are generated by alternator whine. while they will of course get rid of the whine, they will also get rid of any music in that range, so his sq will be down the tubes
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
how would his RCA's being near metal be the problem? where is he going to run the rca's wher they aren't near metal? my only idea would be to hang string from the roof and suspend them in midair down the middle of the vehicle. not once have i heard of better shielded rca's being used to solve alt whine..... doesn't make any sense IMO, seems like that would be a scam used by audio shops to sell pricey rca's
ground loop isolators are no good either.... sure they work but all they are is a bandpass crossover to eliminate the range of frequencies that are generated by alternator whine. while they will of course get rid of the whine, they will also get rid of any music in that range, so his sq will be down the tubes
ground loop isolators are no good either.... sure they work but all they are is a bandpass crossover to eliminate the range of frequencies that are generated by alternator whine. while they will of course get rid of the whine, they will also get rid of any music in that range, so his sq will be down the tubes
Furthermore, he did a test with a spare set of wires and the noise was gone, so there goes ur 'better shielded rca's are no good" theory.
Last edited by ashtonp; Jul 10, 2005 at 01:08 PM.
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, US
Rep Power: 0 From my original post in 2003
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=109782
Helpful tips for upgrading your Car stereo system.
* ALWAYS make the ground connection first. This is a very important rule, as without a ground, electronics (Amps) in particular will search for other ground sources (Through RCAs for example) and cause you big problems.
* OEM Honda Radios are usually always secured by 2 bolts under the radio, to remove, you will most likely have to remove the panel right under the radio.
* New Civics have GLASS MOUNTED POWERED ANTENNAS. Some old Wiring Harnesses did not include these. The power Antenna wire is usually the yellow/green wire in the factory stereo harness. Make sure to connect this wire to the power antenna output (or system remote control output) on the new stereo, this will GREATLY improve reception.
* Some older civics had factory keyless wires tied into the OEM stereo, as wired as it may sound, replacing your OEM stereo outright may cause you to lose your keyless entry.
* Studies have shown that on average, the chassis of most cars amount to a 4awg (Gague) ground.
* When using Aftermarket Wiring harnesses, always zip-tie the factory harness and the OEM harness together, trust me, no one wants to have to rip out their stereo because the plug fell out (Not common problem, but hey, it doesn't hurt)
* When cutting the OEM harness and directly connecting an aftermarket radio's wiring harness, use crimp-on connectors of some sort. Although it may seem convenient, simply taping the wires together will most likely come back to haunt you one day.
* When installing aftermarket head units and amps, run yourself a "source ground" wire. What I mean by this is, instead of using the ground wire provided in the OEM harness, extend the ground wire from the aftermarket radio all the way to the back of the car (Or wherever you are putting the amps) and ground the radio there. You have to run a remote turn on wire to the same general area from the stereo anyways, and this helps to GREATLY reduce engine noise/whine. TRUST ME ON THIS
* Speaking of Engine noise, the most common cause of engine noise is crossing RCA cables. The best way to wire your car is to run all of your RCA wires down one side of the car (In the sills, usually the passenger side) and run all of your power connections down the opposite side of the car (Driver sill). This is really a must when amping non-sub speakers. The general idea is to never cross the RCAs with the power wires. If this means mounting the amps upside down, trust me, you will be better off. DO any and everything you can to not cross RCA wires with power cables. Data cables (Such as CD Changer cables, XM Cables, etc...) Should run down the side with the RCAs, always isolate the power connections. *UPDATE* Recently I attended a Installer conference with the head Installers for JL Audio, and the main Installer shared this little tip with us, he says that running a power(B+), a new Ground from the Battery, and RCAs in a harness down the middle of the car will virtually eliminate all Engine noise. This is achieved by the Ground next to the Power wire canceling out the emitting noise. I have never tried this personally, but it works in theory, and I trust his advice.
* Mount your amps and other electronics onto a wooden amp board instead of directly screwing into the metal of the car. Even if mounting on the back of your seats, this also helps to reduce Engine noise.
* When installing a video system, try to keep the video system's grounds separate from the audio systems, it helps to reduce lines on screens, or "dirtiness", Video RCAs and RGB cords should be run opposite the power wires.
* Soldering, while time consuming, provides the best connections.
* Use electrical tape EVERYWHERE. It never hurts to cover a connection in electrical tape. Some people like to take this a little further and cover connections in insulating heat-shrink tubing, this also works well.
* One of the most common, and unknown, mistakes in replacing factory speakers is under powering them. In fact, this is just as/if not more dangerous then over powering them. You can actually ruin speakers by not sending them enough power, and although you may not want to, it would be best to at least make sure to use an aftermarket headunit, and/or amplify the speakers.
* Always make sure your ground wires are of the same gauge as your power wire, if not bigger.
* Clean all ground areas of paint with a wire brush, and use bolts if possible, make sure to use a ratchet or wrench to tighten your ground bolts (Drills, while powerful, cannot match wrenches and ratchets in torque). If you must use screws, make sure they are chrome, black screws tend to conduct poorly.
* Make sure to have fuses on your power line at the batter connection, and at the amps. If the amps do not have fuses in them, add a fuse holder just prior to the amps B+ or 12 volt connection. Trust me, although a fuse holder and fuse may cost more money, you will be grateful to not have to replace an expensive amp (Rockford's bd series amps do not come with fuses in them, but that doesn't mean they're shitty amps...catch my drift?).
* For bigger audio systems, consider upgrading the ground wire from the battery to the car and the power wire from the alternator. WARNING, do NOT use wire larger then 4 awg (gauge) when upgrading your alternator wire, as the resistance will not be strong enough and you can fry your alternator, and make sure to get rid of the factory wire form the alternator.
* Make sure all connections are TIGHT, it never hurts.
* Try to have the fuse located within 18" of the termination point of the power wire. Basically, try to have a fuse no more then 18" from the battery, or the amp B+ wire.
* To check for engine noise, play a cd, pause it, and then turn the system up. Start the car and rev the engine, listen for whining coming from your speakers.
* Sometimes Engine noise is unavoidable. Most local stereo shops sell RCA ground loop isolators, these are little black boxes that your RCAs plug into right before your connection, that should reduce engine noise.
* When installing multiple amp systems, you may need to use a relay to beef up the remote turn on signal.
* Generally, sending bass frequencies through non sub speakers is a bad thing. It sounds like ***, and can blow your speakers. If possible, filter out frequencies ranging anywhere from 20-250Hz depending on your speakers recommended response frequencies (I generally use 100uf capacitors, available at your local radio shack, these usually do the trick)
* It never hurts to run extra wires. 100 ft of speaker wire only costs about $5, split it into 10ft sections and run half down the passenger side, and half down the driver side (You never know what you might want to install in the future, a 4-channel amp perhaps? Neons? It never hurts)
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=109782
Helpful tips for upgrading your Car stereo system.
* ALWAYS make the ground connection first. This is a very important rule, as without a ground, electronics (Amps) in particular will search for other ground sources (Through RCAs for example) and cause you big problems.
* OEM Honda Radios are usually always secured by 2 bolts under the radio, to remove, you will most likely have to remove the panel right under the radio.
* New Civics have GLASS MOUNTED POWERED ANTENNAS. Some old Wiring Harnesses did not include these. The power Antenna wire is usually the yellow/green wire in the factory stereo harness. Make sure to connect this wire to the power antenna output (or system remote control output) on the new stereo, this will GREATLY improve reception.
* Some older civics had factory keyless wires tied into the OEM stereo, as wired as it may sound, replacing your OEM stereo outright may cause you to lose your keyless entry.
* Studies have shown that on average, the chassis of most cars amount to a 4awg (Gague) ground.
* When using Aftermarket Wiring harnesses, always zip-tie the factory harness and the OEM harness together, trust me, no one wants to have to rip out their stereo because the plug fell out (Not common problem, but hey, it doesn't hurt)
* When cutting the OEM harness and directly connecting an aftermarket radio's wiring harness, use crimp-on connectors of some sort. Although it may seem convenient, simply taping the wires together will most likely come back to haunt you one day.
* When installing aftermarket head units and amps, run yourself a "source ground" wire. What I mean by this is, instead of using the ground wire provided in the OEM harness, extend the ground wire from the aftermarket radio all the way to the back of the car (Or wherever you are putting the amps) and ground the radio there. You have to run a remote turn on wire to the same general area from the stereo anyways, and this helps to GREATLY reduce engine noise/whine. TRUST ME ON THIS
* Speaking of Engine noise, the most common cause of engine noise is crossing RCA cables. The best way to wire your car is to run all of your RCA wires down one side of the car (In the sills, usually the passenger side) and run all of your power connections down the opposite side of the car (Driver sill). This is really a must when amping non-sub speakers. The general idea is to never cross the RCAs with the power wires. If this means mounting the amps upside down, trust me, you will be better off. DO any and everything you can to not cross RCA wires with power cables. Data cables (Such as CD Changer cables, XM Cables, etc...) Should run down the side with the RCAs, always isolate the power connections. *UPDATE* Recently I attended a Installer conference with the head Installers for JL Audio, and the main Installer shared this little tip with us, he says that running a power(B+), a new Ground from the Battery, and RCAs in a harness down the middle of the car will virtually eliminate all Engine noise. This is achieved by the Ground next to the Power wire canceling out the emitting noise. I have never tried this personally, but it works in theory, and I trust his advice.
* Mount your amps and other electronics onto a wooden amp board instead of directly screwing into the metal of the car. Even if mounting on the back of your seats, this also helps to reduce Engine noise.
* When installing a video system, try to keep the video system's grounds separate from the audio systems, it helps to reduce lines on screens, or "dirtiness", Video RCAs and RGB cords should be run opposite the power wires.
* Soldering, while time consuming, provides the best connections.
* Use electrical tape EVERYWHERE. It never hurts to cover a connection in electrical tape. Some people like to take this a little further and cover connections in insulating heat-shrink tubing, this also works well.
* One of the most common, and unknown, mistakes in replacing factory speakers is under powering them. In fact, this is just as/if not more dangerous then over powering them. You can actually ruin speakers by not sending them enough power, and although you may not want to, it would be best to at least make sure to use an aftermarket headunit, and/or amplify the speakers.
* Always make sure your ground wires are of the same gauge as your power wire, if not bigger.
* Clean all ground areas of paint with a wire brush, and use bolts if possible, make sure to use a ratchet or wrench to tighten your ground bolts (Drills, while powerful, cannot match wrenches and ratchets in torque). If you must use screws, make sure they are chrome, black screws tend to conduct poorly.
* Make sure to have fuses on your power line at the batter connection, and at the amps. If the amps do not have fuses in them, add a fuse holder just prior to the amps B+ or 12 volt connection. Trust me, although a fuse holder and fuse may cost more money, you will be grateful to not have to replace an expensive amp (Rockford's bd series amps do not come with fuses in them, but that doesn't mean they're shitty amps...catch my drift?).
* For bigger audio systems, consider upgrading the ground wire from the battery to the car and the power wire from the alternator. WARNING, do NOT use wire larger then 4 awg (gauge) when upgrading your alternator wire, as the resistance will not be strong enough and you can fry your alternator, and make sure to get rid of the factory wire form the alternator.
* Make sure all connections are TIGHT, it never hurts.
* Try to have the fuse located within 18" of the termination point of the power wire. Basically, try to have a fuse no more then 18" from the battery, or the amp B+ wire.
* To check for engine noise, play a cd, pause it, and then turn the system up. Start the car and rev the engine, listen for whining coming from your speakers.
* Sometimes Engine noise is unavoidable. Most local stereo shops sell RCA ground loop isolators, these are little black boxes that your RCAs plug into right before your connection, that should reduce engine noise.
* When installing multiple amp systems, you may need to use a relay to beef up the remote turn on signal.
* Generally, sending bass frequencies through non sub speakers is a bad thing. It sounds like ***, and can blow your speakers. If possible, filter out frequencies ranging anywhere from 20-250Hz depending on your speakers recommended response frequencies (I generally use 100uf capacitors, available at your local radio shack, these usually do the trick)
* It never hurts to run extra wires. 100 ft of speaker wire only costs about $5, split it into 10ft sections and run half down the passenger side, and half down the driver side (You never know what you might want to install in the future, a 4-channel amp perhaps? Neons? It never hurts)
Last edited by justplainbad; Jul 10, 2005 at 01:11 PM.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 51,077
Likes: 4
From: B.C., Canada
Rep Power: 787 I never said better shielded RCA's were no good, I said they were probably unnecessary
Just becuase the other set of wires eliminated the noise does not mean that better shielded RCA's are better... the original set could have had a problem (bad ground), or the new set that he tested out could have followed a different path, bypassing the area that induced the noise in the original wires
Just becuase the other set of wires eliminated the noise does not mean that better shielded RCA's are better... the original set could have had a problem (bad ground), or the new set that he tested out could have followed a different path, bypassing the area that induced the noise in the original wires
Originally Posted by MegaHurtz
I
Just becuase the other set of wires eliminated the noise does not mean that better shielded RCA's are better... the original set could have had a problem (bad ground)
Just becuase the other set of wires eliminated the noise does not mean that better shielded RCA's are better... the original set could have had a problem (bad ground)
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From: KW Ontario
Rep Power: 0 Any word on how to fix the whining noise??? my system had a lose connection at the cap and my speakers were making static noise and now I'm getting whining noise from the engine, how can I fix this ****?? help plz Do I need a new alt??
