AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

okay so my screen looks like this.



I want to make it flush kinda, so their isnt any of those gaps and it looks less ghetto.

So i assumed all i had to do is make a frame for the screen and fill in the depths with bondo?

Is this the right way to do it?

here are some picture sof my progress.



Is this the right type of bondo to use?


THanks for any help you guys cna give me! i never did any bondo before!

I was using this thread as reference: http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...=213192&page=4

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

I'd recommend getting Tiger Hair (also called bondo glass, duraglass, etc...). It's a fiberglass impregnated bondo. Fills much better and is much stronger.

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

is there any other tips? should i just try to fill in the gaps little at a time?
say put one rough layer, than let that dry and throw another layer on top? OR should i just try to do it with one goop?

alex053

iTrader: (9)

get most of it on the first pass with the marglass/kittyhair/whatever you wanna call it but rough sand it before it cures completely!!!!!!! if you dont it will take you forever....get to where it looks decent and let it cure..go back over ith with bodo to make it pretty, then use a good primer

dont rush...it will only turn out as good as the time you put into building it...

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

dont use kitty hair cuz its extremely hard to sand and u prolly wont get a good shape...what i recommend u do is get a little bit of fiberglass and some resin than mix the resin and lay a thin layer of fiberglass where u have the cardboard let it harden than remove the cardboard than u will have ur base to work with...if u want u can keep the cardboard in there as long as u cant see it...than fill it with bondo and sand till u got ur desired shape but make it so there is a good small layer missing...than put another layer of fiberglass over that for strength....than after that hardens sand down the remaining pecies still sticking out than put a thin coat of bondo over that to hide any fiber glass than put a thin coat of finishing glaze on top of it to finish it off...than prime it and paint it do your desired color...if thats too much work than just bondo over everything and make layer after layer but beware it will crack very quickly when being in the car during hot days...consant heating and cooling will make the bondo crack very fast so i dont recommend it...if u want a quality finish and the thing to hold together than i suggest u do what i recommend

edit: when laying the bondo over the fiberglass do thin layers after each other and sand as u lay and shape it...take ur time and it should come out pretty nice

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

SO i guess im gonna do the majority in bondo and mayber a few last layers of fiberglass.

Anyone else with some helpful info? I know you guys are out there with your carputers and stuffs! help me out!

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

No. Glass first, lightweight filler last.
I'd still say the bondo glass will be your best bet for ease and workability.
Check out J187's DIY on here that's the same thing he used:
(There are two thread, you'll find both helpful)
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...light=lilliput
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...light=lilliput

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

some ppl are saying its hard to sand this stuff. Would i be okay using the grinding wheel on a dremel to sand it down?

So with the duraglass stuff i just goop it on in a general shape and sand away?
And it will go from green goop to that silver stuff that he says here:?
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...=198241&page=2

Hey those are some helpful link! i really hope mines come out as nice!!!

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

You can use a dremel. I, however, recommend going to autozone or your local parts place and buying a body file (I prefer to use the blade only as you can bend it to contour to the surface). It's like an inch and a half wide and a little over a foot long, looks like a cheese grater. When the bondo (or bondoglass) is tacky, but not quite fully hardened, use this to remove the major areas of mass, then you can dremel or, as I prefer, hand sand with 40 grit paper. It'll remove a lot of mass at once, but still be smoothing it. Once you get a uniform surface, move up to 80 grit then go with a lighter weight body filler (such as rage gold, bondo, dynalite, etc...). Then youstart really smoothing.

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

something like this? http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...&keyword=31029

J187

Definitely stay with BondoGlass. I tried the fiberglass route like RaginSpam suggested and it didn't stick well at all. I used a product called Kity's hair which is bondoGlass and it bonded amazingly well. Better actually, then drilling holes and glassing. As far as how hard it is to sand/shape, true, it's somewhat hard to shape, but not really. Use a body file at first then rough grit sand paper, like 36 to cut down the high spots. The thing I liked about it is you can get the shape pretty much down as you apply and then just have to sand a little. Put a coat of Lightweight body filler on after to smooth it out. Fill the pinholes with Poly putty or finish glaze and paint.

J187

I didn't even read pop's post above until after I posted. He knows what he's talking about. Not to hiJack, but Pop how you liking the Scion?

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

I ended up not getting it. The one I was wanting they were wanting to rape me on it. I was looking at teh RS 1.0, which was gonna be about 19K+ (give or take some dollars and cents). So, instead, I bought a 99 ranger that's going to be a project truck, and a shop truckl since I'm working on poening my own business now (being as I saved a shat ton of money on the Scion). I still frequent the scion boards and all, and still will end up getting one, but I'm gonna wait till the demand isn't so high so the price goes down. Plus insurance was gonna be about double the original quote the lady gave me, she looked up the wrong vehicle. I wasn't paying $145 a month insurance, sorry...

Anyway, that body file above is a little pricey. Go to the parts store and ask for body file blades. They should be around $2 or $3 at most.

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

well i tried my best!! this is my first time doing anything like this.
HELP!!: I cannot seem to get it as smooth as i like. with the High Fill primer on it, i can still see the scratches from sanding and some of the uneven levels of the bondo. What am i to do about this? How do i make it smooth?

evilone

Do another quick rough sand, then work it with some really fine grit sandpaper until it's smooth.

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

what kinda grit sandpaper do you mean by rough and fine?

ive been using 40 for rough and 320 for fine and it came out the way it did

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

u have too deep of sand scratches cuz of the 40 grit...get finishing glaze and put a very very light thin coat over the surface to fill sand scratches than only sand the finishing glaze with 180 to shape and 320 to smooth out...than use the primer and put good heavy coats on there than before u paint it make sure to wetsand with 600 grit until very very smooth...than paint and use a clearcoat after u paint

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

whats finishing glaze? can you link me to what the brand and bottle looks like?

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

sure thing...its called ever coat poly flex its a good filler for what ur doing

heres a link to a site that sells it

http://www.crashsupply.com/cgi-bin/csupply/evc411.html

btw evercoat products for fillers and such are the best in my opinion and many others... www.evercoat.com for other products

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

is there any product at local pepboys or autozone that does the smae thing? i kinda want to finish and get this over with tommorow!

if i wanted to sand away all that extra bondo i slapped on to try and fix those scratches, what grit sandpaper should i use?

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

Yes, Bondo brand finishing glaze. It's orange in color, comes in a 1 oz or so tube. try www.bondomarhyde.com or www.bondo-marhyde.com It'll be on there.

ragingSPAM

iTrader: (8)

if u dont wanna deal with finishing glaze (which would be easier) u can just mix a small bit of bondo and put a really thin coat on top of the sand scratches than sand smooth with 180 grit and finalize with 320...than prime...than wetsand with 600 on the primer than it should be ready for paint

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

Also, to fix the swirls/scratches, start with 40 grit to remove the really high spots (light pressure, don't press the paper into the bondo). From there work your way up, I suggest 80 grit until smooth, then 120 grit then 220 grit, then prime it witha filler primer. From there lightly mist a darker color onto it. Sand again lightly with 320 or higher grit. The places that there are dark mist spots left are your low places, go back over it with bondo and resand. From there use the spot putty/finishing glaze in a light coat. Sand progressively going up in grit (up meaning larger numbers). I'd stop around 1000 grit to paint. Once you're painting, I'd sand with no less than 1500 grit until I got to my final color coat. On the final collor coat, sand with 2000 grit. Wipe down with a tack cloth then clear coat it with a heavy coat. Sand with 1500 grit, then another heavy coat, 2000 grit paper this tmie. Medium coat, finish off with 2500 grit paper then a rubbing compound then finish with a finishing compound and then a wax. Bling status acheived...

AzNmiKex215

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the tips guys, I fixed it by sanding it down big time and filled it in neatly with bondo. THe problem before was that i didnt have a sanding block or a plastic spreader for the bondo. LOL

well its nice and smooth now. thanks!
It should be all done and finished by tonight!

booba5185

wow, that did come out clean....nice

03civda

iTrader: (1)

Looks good

Civic404

looks good

stinkypie

Hell, looks great!

Teh_Sare

iTrader: (3)

awesome!!

drew22mader

iTrader: (9)

Man that turned out freakin nice! Now i need to do that too!