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someone clearify please: is the POSITIVE POST on the alternator the bolt/but that is behind the rubber piece that looks circular? which also has a terminal on it as well. cause my fuse crapped out as i was doing some grounding/big-3



thanks

 
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yeah... its kinda... behind the alternator

 
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i gotta take a photo of it tomorrow to make sure.

but when you said behind, meaning its not accessable under the hood?



amp uses 40amp fuse
4gauge power wire and big-3 wires as well
500rms stereo system

what amp size anl fuse should i use for postitive alt to positive batt? i tried 100 but thats the one that went out on me. i was thinking either 80amp or 60amp?

 
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yes its accessible, its just on the backside of the alternator, the frotnside beign where the pulley is

 
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well I used the search button and it has come to a dead end here. Therefore I'm going to resurrect this thread lol. I just bought a HO alternator and a recommended 4 gauge power cable - how do you install the power cable? You hook it up to the back of the alternator and connect it to where?

Thanks for any help!

 
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to the positive battery post

 
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^cool - do I keep the current OEM wire harness on this terminal and add the 4 gauge wire to it? Or should I install the 4 gauge wire from positive alternator terminal to battery and completely remove the OEM wire harness?

 
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You don't need 2 positive wires going from the alt to the battery, so get rid of the factory one.

 
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Would it hurt if I have two? Cause the factory wire seems to be looping through all sorts of stuff and I don't want to mess with it.

 
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as long it is fused, you will be fine.

(factory wires are normally fused through the fuse box)

 
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Keep ALL of the factory wiring and add the 4 guage line between your alternator and battery

 
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I finally got around to installing the alternator. Here is the DIY write-up I made:http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...11#post4077911

 
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Wait theres supposed to be a fuse between the alt and batt? Are you sure? I thought it was fine without one. Hmm maybe I misinterpreted this? Please clarify

 
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shouldnt you ground the alternator too! i mean...run aa ground from the alt, to the neg. battery post?!

 
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Nope. Completely unnecessary; since the alternator body is made out of metal, it grounds itself to the car via it's upper mount. Just use a good insulated heavy gauge wire for the positive output, run it to the positive side of the battery and you're in good shape. Remember to use a wire with good insulation material, otherwise when it rubs onto the alternator's metal body, you will see fireworks.

 
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well i installed all that, left the oem wire, and added a 4 ga. wire, and my voltage is lower. like 12.1, while off is 12.4. so im sending mine back, getting a new one, and then installing it in a few... hope this crap doesn do it again.

 
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high output alternators usually run lower current while idling than stock, it takes a higher rpm for them to really shine.

 
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It may not be defective at all. Your battery is probaby fully charged and the voltage regulator is purposely lowering the voltage to the battery so it doesn't overcharge. Mine did the same thing; as soon as I put a significant amount of load on it (i.e. A/C, full lights), voltage begins to go up to almost 14. Give that a try before you return it.