streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Ok, first let me explain what I am looking for. I am not looking for hard *** bass, but light bass with loud sound.

I am planning on buying a new head unit in the next few weeks.

But I need to know how to setup the rest of my speakers. I am not a audio person, so that is why I am asking for help. Like I said, I want a little bass with loud sound. What would you recommend for speakers for the doors and trunk? And I am assuming I will need a amp to go with it, so what would you recommend?

Let me know your ideas? ANything extra I might need too.

angelswin

I would try some Alpine Type R components in the doors.I am not sure as far as the subwoofer goes but the Type R's get loud with no distortion.I had a cheap JBL amp powering them and they sounded awesome.

se04civic

JL Audio all the way.

nickm748

Ok first off hard and light bass depends on the music ur playin. A good sub can reproduce bass either tight like the thuds of a bass drum, or the swoop type bass that carries out a tone.
Now let me ask you this, whay type of music do you listen to.
If you listen to all rap and are just lookin for something cheap and loud go with a bandpass sub box (you cant go wrong for 100$ and bestbuy becuse they all suck ne way)
If you listen to rock, go with a 8-10inch sub to reproduce most of the drums and stuff.
If you listen to both or like good sound quality go with a 10-12inch
I have had extreamly good experience with the eclipse alluminum series subs.
And the most important ? of all how much money are you looking to spend.

I can see you do not have a lot of knoledge on this subject so I suggest to RESEARCH all you can. I did a lot of reseach and still ran into some problems.'


You do not NEED at amp for the speakers. But you do need one for the sub. When you get an amp you only want to look at RMS not any of that peak power bs. RMS is true power, peak power is distortion. When you run an amp to you 4 speakers you will get crisp sound and be able to play them louder with out the speakers blowing. Most of the time it is distortion that blows speakers.
But ushaly the only time you need a amp for the speakers is when you upgrade them. Now you can either go with components speakers or regualr speakers. The diffrence is componets are the best, wich makes them more expensive. But the crossover is a sepreate peice and so is the tweeter. This has far better sound quality in the highs and mid-bass. Or you could just go with the regualr speaker wich will be impoved over stock but as you can see will not have the same quality.
The head units do have built in amps, but they are like 10-15 rms at the max. I dont belive any of the companys that say they have 50watts RMS.
As for head units its all a matter of prefrence, but please dont get any thing gay with a bunch of flashing lights and gay colors and stuff.

I will also tell you this that no one else seems to mention. When and if you add a system consisting of a good sub/amp/ and amp for the spreakers it will slow you car down. It is a lot of weight, this = slower acceleration/ bad handaling/ a longer braking distance.


Before you buy LISTEN to the speaker. If there is a place online that has it cheap. Find a place that has it on display, and make sure you listen to it hooked up to the amp of your choice or the head unit of your choice.

All I can say is, there is some stuff you would probly be able to do. Like install front and rear speakers and mayb the head unit. But as far as amp connections and getting good grounds I suggest you either give your car to a person you trust or a very reputable shop like tweeter. Or you can do it the way you want it to be done and do it your self.


Good luck, ask ne more questions you got

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

I pretty much listen to everything.

So what I really should do is get my head unit, then for the 4 speakers, get component speakers? And assuming I should add a amp to it so I can have loud, clean sound, correct?

And I guess if I want some bass added into it, I should get maybe a 10 or 12'' sub? With that, is there a way to have only one amp which will run all 4 speakers and the sub? Or would I need 2 amps?

Now the last question is, what size components do I need? And what size amp?

Let me know on a setup with 4 component speakers, an amp, and possibly a 10-12'' woofer and amp, unless 1 amp can run everything?

What is a good price to spend on all this for good stuff? I dont feel like spending thousands, you know what I mean, but a reasonable price. I am not a cheapy either.

I will install the head unit and speakers myself, and maybe the amp and sub, but not sure.

southwest713

for what you're looking for, you just need 6.5" components in the front and u can get some decent 6x9s in the back. i know u don't really like loud bass but im sure one 10" would be enough for u. u can get a five channel amp if u want, that would pobably be the best thing. or u can just get coaxials all around running off the deck and a small amp for the sub alone.

diskreet

iTrader: (1)

This is worthless without a price range!!!
///Alpine is awesome for speakers, amps, and head units
Infinity is amazing for the price with speakers, subs, and now amps
Clarion makes awesome head units but speakers and subs arent that great.
JL makes incredible amps, speakers, and subs, if not the best of each
Crossfire is about the same level as JL, but I prefer JL subs and amps to crossfire

So if you dont want subs id recommend:
JL speakers if you want components, like their bottom line stuff. A JL amp and a clarion or alpine.
But if you stick to crossfire, infinity, alpine, clarion, and JL Audio you will not be disappointed.

Give us a price range and we will help more!

Edit: If you want the best amp that will do everything you should look at this:
http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/5005.html

Awesome speakers (rear):
http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/TR690TX.html

Top of the line frontsneed something that can handle the power off that amp)
http://www.jlaudio.com/evolution/ZR650CS.html

Sub:
http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/civic.html#
will fit perfectly and will handle 250 watts perfectly. Very clear bass and will not be in your way. win-win.


about amp:
100watts RMS for front speakers (if you get components this should be plenty)
25 watts RMS for rear speakers (just get a decent 6x9 set)
and
250 watts RMS for a sub @4 ohms which will mean clean but not very loud sub. 250 watts is a good amout if you just want to compliment your music.

nickm748

Go with the boston z-series components. I got em and they are great!

profuse007

i got a 10" kick compVR in a custom molded fiberglass box, not quite tune by specs, its kinda big. it sounds pretty good though, even when its turned up.

if youre not look for anything thatll sake ur car, go w/ a 10" or 12".

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Well tell me what I would spend going with bottom line JL audio components and 1 10" sub and one amp to run everything?

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

I was thinking about these for the front.

Havent decided on the rest yet though.

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

You don't want much bass no? An 8 (or pair of 8's) would probably be right up your alley. Maybe a 10. If you're going with an 8", I'd be inclined to recommend a JL 8W3. Should you decide to step it up to a single 10", I'd be more inclined to recommmend something along the lines of a 10W6, or something of that ilk. It's hard to actually give you a good recommendation because we don't know your type of music, or how much you're wanting to spend.

As far as saying that the components don't need amplification. That's one of the most off kilter suggestions out there. True, it won't hurt them running them off of deck power as long as you don't get a lot of distortion. 12 RMS watts isn't gonna do a whole lot to them. The thing is, why even replace them if you're not going to amplify them. That's pointless. The stocks are designed for low power input, so they'll sound as good (if not better) than any aftermarket speaker you put in there. If you're not going to amp, don't waste the money.

That said, I'd only replace the fronts, and either ditch the rears, or run them off of deck power. This is due to several factors, the main being the soundstage. Most people don'twant their music blaring at them from behind them, more they want to not be able to actually locate the speakers with theri ears. Balanced if you will.

For replacing the fronts, I'd go with some Adire Audio Koda Midbass drivers, as they have nice midbass coverage, and are at a very affordable price. Amp them off of a small amp, and you'er good to go.

J187

Especially The JL components. I have found them to be rather power hungry. But feed em' well and they will deliver. They sound awesome with good clean power.

realitycheck

iTrader: (3)

Quick question does it matter if you mix the brands of speakers and amps and head units???? I dont mean to ***** this thread it might help streetglower too though. Cause I have rockford fosgate 12's, rockford amp an alpine head unit and now I want to go either alpine, jl, or kodas components. And maybe another amp if not too expensive.

nickm748

^it dosent mattet


Popcorn were you reffering to me when you said it was a bad rec. not to amp components. Becuse I never said it was good to do so.

J187

Dude, you could mix brands of speakers WITHIN components if you do it right. Like have Adire midbass and Focal tweets, etc.

realitycheck

iTrader: (3)

Alright cool just checking i've always thought about that question but just never asked anybody.

NoLeadEmSoMuch

iTrader: (3)

I hate to hijack the thread, but I have a related question: my speakers are Boston SL65 and SL95...deck is a DEH-P8MP. Thinking about amp and sub and I started my own thread...I thought about making the amp and sub Boston too. I was thinking either GT40 or GT42 and either G212 or G510 for the sub. The other thread said amp the fronts and bridge for the sub. Can the speakers handle that setup?

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

SO you think I should only replace the front with components and leave the stock speakers and get a small amp and run them from it?

What does everyone else think.

I mainly want loud, semi bass music if you understand. With the stock radio, it doesnt get loud, and when it is turned all the way up, it gets distroted.
I want to be able to turn my radio up loud and have clean, clear music with some bass. Thats where the sub comes in.

I was thinking about adding the 10 in, so I am assuming I can run the 2 speakers and sub off one amp and let the 2 rear speakers run off the deck

Now price, I dont want cheap stuff, and I dont want to spend all my money. Something affordable, but good. I dont want to be spending thousands, So everyone give me there recommendations for 2 front speaker components, price and a sub and amp. Or if you have any other setup ideas.

I really appreciate this everyone.


Also, one more thing, on the front component speakers, what should I look for as far as continuious power? So far I have seen 60W continuious power?

ColtsFan1

Just did exactly what you're asking for in g'friends 03 Civic.

JL 6.5 in door ~ $80-100
JL 6x9 in rear deck ~ $100-125
JL 10 in cheap box in trunk (uses minimal space) ~ $120

Powered by Alpine 5 channel ~ $250
Alpine headunit w/install kit & wiring ~ Your call (whatever level of HU you're looking for). I went way way way overboard & bought a Alpine 9835 w/XM.

In the end....I'm way happy with it.

Word of advice.....eBay! Never ever ever go to a stealeo-shop for your equipment. Shop there....buy on eBay. I bought online & saved about 30-40% on everything.

Good luck.

D17thgen

iTrader: (1)

eBay is a good buying source, but not 100% legit/reliable. everything is sold as is and you get what you see in the pic(s). warranty is useless cause its only good to the original purchaser (the seller). sometimes they arent even the first original owner, it could be refurbed, used, handy-downed, etc. before you go with the eBay route, i recommend buying off these sites as they have great prices on most equipment. i know ikesound.com has a eBay account themselves and sells there products there as well. dunno about the other websites.

www.onlinecarstereo.com
www.thezeb.com
www.ikesound.com
www.savingslot.com
www.hookedontronics.com


streetglower, if i were in your situation, i would look into a 6.5" front component set (which is the 6.5" speaker itself, pair of tweeters, and crossovers). it can cost from $100-$300 depending how good quality of a set you want.
as for the rear 6x9, i wouldnt spend too much on a pair, but just something better than the stock ones as they distort pretty bad. but if you plan to run off factory deck, leave the rears alone, there not that important unless u want overall sound stage. meaning, blasting ur music to be heard around the block.
WHEN/IF you get a component set for ur front speakers, amping them is ur best bet for that clean, crisp, clear sound. a nice 2-channel amp will be perfect for a component set. BUT since you do plan to add a subwoofer, you can purchase a 4-channel amp which can power your front component set AND a single subwoofer driver. going the 4-channel amp route can be cost effective and a more of ease install.
as for subwoofers, i think a single 10" or 12". i personally would take the 12" because i listen to hip-hop/trance/rap/techno music. assuming your more of an sound quality person, i would go 10"



brands...
AMP: rockford fosgate, kicker, jl audio, mtx, alpine, other
COMPONENT: i havent looked upon components as much, but im going to say Polk, polk Momo, Alpine, JL, infinity, other
Subwoofer: alpine, jl, rockford fosgate, kicker, mtx, RE, other



i would recommend you a 10" Alpine Type-R subwoofer. affordable, great SQ, can get loud and not distort, one of the best bang for subwoofer on market.

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

Here's some recommendations I have to not break the budget:

Components/Midbass:

Adire Koda ($80 for the mids) paired with some nice Silk Dome 3/4" tweets in teh sail
CDT CL-61
Focal 165A
MB Quart RCE216 Refrence Series


Subs:
JL Audio 8W3
JL Audio 10W3v2
Arc Audio KAR10D
Alumapro Alchemy MX10
Adire Audio Koda 10
Adire Audio Shiva (for if you want a 12)
Image Dyanmics IDMAX 10
Image Dynamics IDQ10
Treo Engineering 10
Resonant Engineering 10
Elemental Designs E10A


Amps:
JBL Power Series
Hifonics
PPI
Soundstream
MMats
JL

Those are some brands and some more specific stuff I like to use (at the entry level class of course, and a few mid level things mixed in)

profuse007

component: infinity kappa
subs: 2-10" JLw0
amp:JL 250/1

thatll be a nice lil setup, not too crazy of a bass.

Civic_RedLine

iTrader: (18)

where do you buy that stealthbox. I found it in jl's site but they dont sell them?

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

My friend at work has those and they dont fit, I want something I can put in without modifying.

Also, what should I look for as far as continuous power?

And if I do get 2 speakers up front and a 10" sub, what size amp would be good. I have been told I can get a 3 way amp and run 2 speakers on one channel, 2 on another, and the sub on the last one, bridging something? Put should I get 300/3, 400/3, what size and how many channels.

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

The Kodas fit fine, all you have to do is cut a 3/4 inch spacer out of MDF and trim just a small portion of the door metal. You don't even have to cut it. You could even cut slits in it and bend it back (that'd keep the sharp edges down too). Continuous power is usually going to be between 60-150 RMS watts on the majority of components. (some will be more, few will be less). You don't have to run it to the peak RMS watts, or to the peak power number, as they'll run just fine with far less power. I'd try to find something like a 4 channel 75X4 amp (or 100X4) and run the fronts off the front 2 channels, and the sub off of teh back two channels bridged.

J187

Head Unit - Pioneer Premier DEH-P660 $184 WWW.HOOKEDONTRONICS.COM
Front speakers - CDT CL-61A $149.99 WWW.THEZEB.COM
Rear Speakers - Stock
Subs - 1 10" CDT CL series Subwoofer $89.99 www.THEZEB.COM
Enclosure - Build it yourself, small sealed. Simple.
Amp - Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:4 $229 WWW.CARDOMAIN.COM

TOTAL 652.98

Run the rears off the Head Unit, run the fronts off 2 channels of the AMP. Bridge the other 2 channels to the sub.
BING BANG BOOM DONE!

profuse007

ur car sedan/coupe/hatch???

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

I have a coupe.

Now is there any speakers that fit without modification? I was told all dont fit unless modification of some sort is done, which I dont mind making spacers out of wood, but I dont really want to.