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So there has been alot of talk latly on this forum about sound quality, mid range blah blah blah, it is all jibberish to me, the only thing i know is Bass, and how storng it bumps.

i want to learn about sound quality, diffrent frequencies and all that stuff, does anyone have any tutorials or sight with all the basics that i need to learn


thanks

 
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Search here, or go into some of the sites tha are in Ludlam's sticky.

 
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Spend more money on your HU, components/amps, and install than you do on your subs/amp and you'll be well on your way.

 
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Dont mean to be a d1ck about your posts but this is the second in a row that I've read that I'm not understanding. Plus I'm crabby cuz work today is sucking bad.
So you're saying if I automatically go out and spend more money on a head unit, and some components/amps, and spend less cash on the subwoofers and amps for the sub, I'll magically gain SQ?

Example:
For fun, we'll say I just bought:
Pioneer AVIC-N1.. GREAT dvd/cd/mp3/navigation unit..
MSRP=$1,999.

2 MB Quart RCE216 systems.. decent components, 38-32,000 Hz response
60-130 watts RMS.
MSRP=$299.99

2 Rockford Fosgate PunchP6002s amplifiers
Highpass filter, preamp inputs for easy wiring of the two amps, not too shabby.. each amp 150Wx2
MSRP = $499.99

So let's add that up.
Total - $3599.95 on a head unit, two component systems, and two amplifiers for the components. All excellent products.

Now let's throw in a Class D Monoblock amp such as...
Hmm
MTX Thunder801D is a favorite of mine but correct my specs if I'm wrong on this because I'm not 100% sure
400Wx1 @ 4 ohms
800Wx1 @ 2 ohms
MSRP = $499.99

Subwoofers.. hell let's get two 12"s for $hits and giggles
How about the JL Audio W6v2?
Recognized name, good overall product, excellent reading if you run an impedance curve, and definitely good SQ.
Not sure what the MSRP is but I want to say it's around $500ish.

Total = $1499.98

System sounds great eh? According to your thinking, I should be "well on my way." One problem though..
That HU is made more for navigation than audio. The Preout on the HU is only 1 volt. Do you REALLY think that a single 1 volt preout will give a strong enough signal to the 801D? I highly doubt that. This in turn, giving BAD SQ.
Same goes for the 1 volt preouts for your front and rear channel amplifiers.

Next issue is a person who's running four component systems might be better off running a single 4 channel amp than two 2 channel amplifiers simply for cost efficiency.


Why do you think that not spending much money on an amp/sub combination will give you better sound quality? Go run an impedance curve on a W7. The voice coils stay VERY close to 4 ohms.. very efficient I must say. Now run an impedance curve on some audiobahn sub. Not to diss audiobahn but I'm sorry.. the W7 will give MUCH BETTER SQ than the Audiobahn ever will.


SOOOOOO... Shouldn't someone inform him first of what he needs to look for when he buys something? I think that's what he's asking for.

Player, some things to look for when looking for a good SQ system.
1. Components over Coax.. yes, many many coaxs sound extremely nice.. but being able to mount your tweeter in a different location than your mid can often times create much better imaging (not all the time but most of the time)

2. Frequency response.. pay close attention to the specs. Some tweeters can play more of a range than others.

3. Time Correction. Most Alpine HU's come with a feature called Time Correction. Search this forum to read more about it. There was just a post talking about TC a few days ago.

4. Dynamat, Roadkill, Fatmat, etc. Sound damping materials.. (And don't call it "sound dampening".. that's what you do when something gets wet) It helps a lot being able to keep as much roadnoise out of the car as you can.

These things are just a few pointers that you can look to.. Anyone else who wants to add to the list, go for it.

 
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excellent examples Dark
People need to learn how to shop to specs and most importanly what they are trying to accomplish. A lot of people look for what is flashy as compared to what is truly needed.

 
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I might add that shopping by specs means nothing if you don't understand how those specs relate to sq.

Also, some manufacturers give misleading specs. The best way to buy equipment for sq is to read boards like this and see what others are saying about equipment. Most people will agree that a particular model is go or it isn't. For example. Ask everyone what they think about sony car audio and you are likely to get a concensus.

So basicly in summary. Look at specs then ask around. Don't just take what the manufacturer says as fact.

 
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Thank you for elaborating on SQ specs. That's what I meant, just did type all of that out.

---> Quick hijacking! Tbaleno, you're in Chicago... what kind of battery are you running with your system? I'm in the market for a good audio battery that can withstand our cold winters!<-----End Hijacking

 
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darklegacy - since when is mounting your tweeter in a different location than your mid better for imaging??? your tweeter should be as close to your mid as possible. THIS is the ticket to great imaging and an amazing sound stage.

 
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Normally yes... but in some cases, no. If you've ever been to an IASCA competition, you'll see that not every single car has the tweeter close to the mid range. Although what you're saying is a good general rule of thumb, it's not aways true.

 
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true, i guess it depends on the acoustics of the car. however, i've been to many iasca comps and have never seen anyone "place" without having their mids and tweets next to each other.

 
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damn, thats hot

 
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I came in 3rd in novice at one show It was a SLAP show and the only one I attended. I only entered because my friends presured me.

 
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3rd place isn't bad.. how many people competed?

EDIT: Just wanted to add one more thing to what HondaSales said.. I'm not necessarily saying that what you said is wrong cuz it definitely isn't. But in the scenerios where the vehicles dimensions do play a part in it, just having components to have the freedom to place mids/tweets in different spots is an advantage.

 
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3 hehe but my score was close enough that if I would have done non sound stuff (like say mounting my amps properly, registering with the sanctioning body, stuff like that) I could have won. Like I said though I wasn't planing on competing.