03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I'm planning to get some speakers for my sedan. Do you guys know if the "Infinity Reference Series 6002i 6-1/2" 180W 2-way speakers" can fit in the doors and in the rears? The size is 6.5inch for the front and the back, right? I'm just worried that the speakers will not fit in the doors because of its depth. Other than that, I know that the sound of these speakers are awesome! Please help me out! THANKS!

steak84ss

Most of the aftermarket with significant power are too deep. All you need is a trim ring to push the magnet out from the door. Otherwise the magnet hits the window in between the metal sections. I have JL Components with a 6.5 mid and all I needed was a trim ring. For coaxials, I had a set of Diamond Audio in my Integra before it was stolen.......SWEET!! They sounded so damn good. Otherwise I like MB Quart. For the front doors in Hondas, spend a little more money and buy components. With the pod so low in the door, the rear speakers end up drowning out thr fronts. Put the mid down low and the tweeter up high. I put mine in that little triangle in the door.

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

I'm assuming you did this as a DIY...? So you had to cut a hole in the "plastic" to put in the components right? Is it hard to put the speakers in yourself?

steak84ss

No, I didn't do a DIY. I didn't know about this website when I did the setup. I thought it was pretty easy. The door comes apart pretty easy. Remove the old crap speaker and then clip the stock connector that Honda uses. I extended the stock wires to go to the X-Over. Then, you install the mid and run the wires from the X-Over to the Mid. Then I installed the Tweeter. Just drill a couple of small holes in that Triangle thing and mount the tweeter with the cups they give you. Run the wires from the X-Over to the tweeter. Oh yeah, you need to find a spot under the door panel to mount the crossover. If you've done any installs, its real easy. The hardest part was the trim ring. You can cut it out with some MDF. I spent 250 on my JL Components. I'm happy with them so far are they are running on the cd player power. I haven't had any time to install my JL Amps yet because my Integra has been soaking that up. The Integra had MB Quart Premiums all around. Those were about 450 a set. I also like Diamond Audio. Both JL and Diamond are available with silk tweeters and that kills some of the Raspyness IMO.

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

What is a trim ring? And where can you get one? LOL....I haven't done any of these DIY's before! BTW, what head unit do you have? Cause I'm not getting a new head unit yet, I just want to change the stock speakers first.
How do you like the JL components? Have you heard the sound of Infinity before? They're really crisp. And that's $250US, I'm assuming? Is that a good deal (I have no idea )?

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

Take the fronts to a shop to do it. Its not worth your time to mess around with it. The rears are easy. The thing about infinity is the magnets are too big for the hole in the door, at least mine were. (Kappa)

steak84ss

What the hell are youtalking about "the rears are easy". You have to take out the entire back seats and all the side panels if you want to do it properly.

Buddy, do yourself a favor and forget the speakers until you have a new headunit. You'll be surprized how much different the stock speakers will sound. The stock head unit is WAY underpowered for aftermarket speakers. I have a Clarion. This one.

http://clarion.com/usa/product/index...oduct=DXZ745MP

I should have stuck with ECLIPSE. They make GREAT headunits and I have never had a problem. This Clarion is nice but as soon as the warranty was up, all the cool colors on the screen started flickering and now the damn thing shuts off when I hit a good bump. They spent too much time on the looks and not the internals. You can never go wrong with Pioneer Premier either. I have never seen a Kenwood that didn't skip like hell after 2 years. HEAD UNIT FIRST!!

J187

This would be done only depending on what speaker you are using. Some speakers sound just fine with a high-mounted tweeter, others do not. In fact, convention will tell you to mount your tweeter much lower and nearer to your midrange, like in kick panels for instance. Some speakers, like MB Quart Q series give a lot of flexability here because those tweeters sound good even in the factory pods. The other reason to use factory locations for components is ease of install. Its just more simplified and quicker to doj if you aren't really passionate about the finer points of sound.


First of all, who's to say it isn't worth his time to do it himself. If he's got the means, few things are MORE worthy of your time than to rise to a challange and to be successful. Beside satsifaction, you'll learn a thing or two and be a better, more independant person in the end. In fact, I'd say that unless you are completely unable to perform the task, its worth whatever time it takes you to enjoy the fruit of your labor.
Second, I believe the question was about reference series infinity not Kappa, which to my understanding DO fit without modification. I also don't really understand how you think the rears are easy but the fronts aren't.


Actually, an aftermarket headunit isn't going to provide much more amplification than the factory. A little, but not a lot. If you are concerned enough about your sound, my advice is to forget about changing anything unless you are willing to amp the setup. The stock setup is designed to give you the widest available best all around sound for what its worth. If you change to aftermarket components and merely wire them into the crossover setup in the factory system (mids replace mids, tweets replace tweets) you are likeley to get lacking sound due to the fact that the crossovers were set with respect to the factory speakers.

LudlamTheory

sir, find a reputable shop and pay them to do it...

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

I'm inclined to tell you what others have. Take it to a shop and get it done.

As for the running them off of the HU. Stock or aftermarket, why? You're gonna get maybe 16 watts RMS out of any HU max. The reference are rated at 60 RMS and 180 max, no? They'd be severly underpowered. You'd be much better off running the stocks off of a deck, stock or aftermarket. They'll sound as good, if not better. As for mounting them, if I am thinking correctly, their mounting depth is around 2 &1/8 no? Max mounting depth in our cars is close to 2.25-2.5 inches. They should fit fine. If the magnet is bottoming out, which I doubt they will, you can always take a piece of 1/2-3/4 MDF and make a mounting ring for them. That requires the use of at least a jig saw and a compass (assuming you can't figure out how to make a circle cutting jig,or have something such as a rotozip, dremel, etc with a circle cutting jig). That takes maybe 5-10 minutes to do. The magnets aren't too large on them if I remember dorrectly, so the hole in the door shouldn't have to be modified. Again, why do it if they're not amped, but hey, it's your world. With this set, assuming you get the reference, I'd recommend not mounting the tweets in the sail panel as suggested, rather either in a kick, or by making a mount to create a 2-way on the mid's stock location due to these particular tweets being rather harsh. This would help your imaging. They'll work fine in the sail panel, but if you don't want your highs blaring in your face, mounting them low would be a good idea. I'm sure I'm omitting something I'll think of later, but this is all that comes to mind at the moment.

EDIT: I knew I'd forget something. The fronts are about 100 times easier, and less time consuming than replacing the rears. Pop out one panel (behind door pull) and open one cover tab thing (in the arm rest)(you'll see it in the DIY) remove 3 screws and the door panel pops right off. The rear deck requires removing about 1/2 of the rear section, seats, side panels, rear deck cover, etc. Your first time removing all of that will probably take you a little time to do. The 6.5's will fit in the rear as well. I wouldn't get a comp set to go there though. Personally, I'd put nothing there, but again, it's your world. If you do replace, I'd probably go with just a mid, and no tweet. Second option would be either a 2 or 3 way. The only conceptual reason I could see to add rear fill is for the benefit of back seat passengers. And maybe to add a little more or different frequency handling in the midrange.

brash

Agreed.

And about whether or not to do stuff yourself: If you have the money and don't have the interest in trying to do it yourself, take it to a shop. If you have the interest and time to do it yourself, do it yourself.

Civic_Racer9

iTrader: (9)

wow the replies are sooo long.

if ur not crafty...then ahve a shop do it.

cuz U WILL need to drill new holes in the frame rear and fronts to fit them.

steak84ss

That is TOTAL B.S. !! I have been doing stereos since I was 16 and I'm 24 now. Not only do aftermarket headunits provide more power but they provide cleaner power with less noise in the signal. You will 100% notice a huge difference in the stock speakers if you put in a new head unit. Unless you are buying complete crap......you'll notice the difference. Ultimately, amps are the BEST way to provide power.

As far as speaker location......unless you are buying top of the line like Rainbow audio and building the correct size pods with the correct air spacings, just put the tweeter up high. Like I said, put the speaker low and the rear will drowned out the front. Think about it, sound up high will be heard more than low. When you are at a concert or in the studio, where does the sound come from and where are the speakers located? UP HIGH, IN FRONT!!

Look, do you want to attempt the install or have someone do it. Simple coaxials in the front door will run you at least 30 bucks to have someone install. It will cost more for components. The back seat is way more involved. You must remove alot of the interior of the rear and its easy to break something. Good luck and don't listen to INEXPERIENCE!!

J187

In case you havne't noticed yet, we typically do not flame others for their opinions when they are at least, educated insight. In other words, your capital letters of INEXPERIENCE I can assure you apply to no one that has answered this thread yet, so you'll do better to keep your nasty comments to yourself and focus on the task at hand. That being said, you're insistance on using the stock location for the tweeters may be correct for the reasons I mentioned earlier, convinience, ease of install, but from a sound quality perspective that may not always be good advice. I'll say it again, speaker placement is entirely dependent upon environment, speakers, preferences etc. There is no one-size-fits-all solution such as, just use the stock location like you said though. Also, you've pointed out that sound at a concert comes from high in front. Well, the purpose for anyone using kick panels isn't to make the sound "come from" their feet. Its because they are trying to equalize the right and left pathlengths so that the left speaker doesn't sound like its 2" from you and the right 4 feet from you. They are just trying to obtain optimum staging and imaging. Another thing, If you are suggesting that until you've gone as high-end as Rainbow that you've got no need for a better sound stage, then that might be the most ridiculous thing I've heard in this forum to date. There would be ALOT of pissed of people in here that spent countless hours or dollars on kickpanels to accomodate lesser speakers like, quart premiums, adires, kappas, cls and perfects etc.

As far as the stock stereo vs an aftermarket head, they may provide a little more power and slightly cleaner power but not a big difference. Remember, when they rate headunits, it isn't even a fair assesment of power, they use nasty distortion rates to give the appearance of more power. Do you think that a headunit that says 50x4 is actually 50w rms @ .05%?? No one is saying that it is stupid to swap the stock headunit, it is just important for someone that may not know to realize what they will be getting: A more functionable, better featured HU which may or may not provide sound which they percieve as better.

If you are suggesting that because you started fooling with audio when you were 16 and you're now 24 that gives some sort of wisdom in this particular area, let me assure you that the nice lady that makes my coffee at Dunkin Donuts every morning has been making coffee for 10 years, yet she still constantly asks if I want whipped cream in my hot coffee and gives me sugar instead of sweet n low etc. Point being, it's naive to think that age automatically gives you wisdom. LudlamTheory, who responded brieftly to this thread, probably has more knowledge of car audio in his pinky than some guys in the business for 20 years have in thier brains. So next time before you scream BS, just discuss the matter at hand using your knowledge base and your opinion.

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

J, do not bother explaining, it's fairly evident that this guy is at one of the shops that just look to earn the largest end profit. I'd be willing to bet he's not MECP certified. But that's beside the point. I could point out much ignorance in his post, but again, it's not necessary, nor do I want to come in here and ***** this guys thread. Evidently he does not understand the concept of imaging, which is understandable because most audio shops are going to go with what's quickest so they can do the most insatlls possible and keep from having time issues in doing so. That makes it a larger profit margin no? It's ok, we'll forgive him I guess.

steak84ss

Point taken. I disagree with the fact that people don't flame on other's opinions because they do all the time. I wasn't suggesting that my age gives me knowledge. I have had many setups and have experienced all of what you are talking about. Maybe I should have clarified that.

That being said, it is my opinion that in many cases, it would sound better to place the tweeter up higher. I did not have a stock location for tweeters when I bought the car so I improvised. When I purchsed my latest set of components, I tried both tweeter low and high. I found the sound just as good high up. One day, my ideal setup will be a set of coaxials in the door with another couple of mid range speakers and a tweeter all on the bottom of the door and a tweeter up high. Only need a set of coaxials in the back for some fill. I personally feel the head unit would be the first thing I would get.

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

I was catering my advice towards the particular set. The tweeters in that set are harsh, so I suggested, if you don't want the highs blaring in your face to mount them low because they are so harsh. In the ideal sound stage, you don't want to be able to point out where the sound is coming from, rather you want it to be balanced and even.

J187

Not to hiJack this thread, but the very first time I went to an audio shop to have an install done when I was 16, the guy kept using the words quick and speedy. It'll be quicker to just . . . . and it's nice and to speedy to . . .. by the end of the conversation I simply said, "well thanks for your time, but I'm going go somewhere that'll take time and care with my car. . ."

4drcivic2k1

iTrader: (2)

I meant the rears were easy in the fact that I didn't have to do any custom modification to get them to fit. And if he isn't willing to do that himself, I would take it to a shop.

steak84ss

Have you guys achieved that "unknown source" staging thing in the Vic. I did it once in my old Monte Carlo. Pioneer makes and EQ that has AUTO EQ. I wonder is that would actually work. My Integra can be too harsh. I went crazy and did components in front and back which was a terrible idea because the bach is so close that it's just too loud. Plus my combo is mad harsh. Eclipse Head unit with 8 volt pre-outs, MB Quart Premiums, and Phoenix Gold amps. Phoenix Gold are nice but not for highs unless you tame them. They just throw too much raw power. I kind of think that 8 volt outs are too high.

J187

If the premium crossovers are anythign like the Q series, you should have great control over the tweeter level. If you knock that down significantly, the sound shouldn't be harsh at all. IMHO components are just bad for rill regardless. I'm not a proponent of no rear-fill at all, but I certainly don't like having high frequencies there either. Simple coax, raw mids are best for me. No I have not quite exacted a transparrent stage, but thats probably because I use my tweets in my sail panels - Because with MBQuarts I can

steak84ss

Yeah, with this car I used Coaxials in the back. The Integra was overkill but the way I installed them, I would have to replace the entire rear sections, and those go from the doors to the trunk. I forgot about the Decibal thing in the crossovers. I should mess with that on the back ones. Good call. Although the car hasn't so much as had power in about 13 months.

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Wow...guys thanx for the replies! As for DIY, I'm most likely gonna bring it to a shop. What I was planning to do was get some good sounding 6.5inch speakers for the front and rears. However, doing this project by myself would be a good experience, but I might screw something up! So I'd rather bring it to professionals.

So guys, what kind of speakers do you have in your rides? How's the sound? Did you DIY? And how much did you spend in all (time and money)?

Thanks for the replies guys.

J187

HU - Alpine cda 9833
fronts are MB Quart Q-series 6.5 components, mids in doors tweets in sails
rears are MB Quart QM TX 6.5" mid drivers
subs 2x JL Audio 10W6V2
Amps JL Audio 500/1
Amps JL Audio 300/2

It sounds excellent, just how I like it.

Yes I did the install myself. What did it cost me? not retail thats for sure.

HU - $250
Fronts - $650
rears - $120
500/1 - $300
300/2 - $250

something like that. I got friends in the right places

steak84ss

My Integra:

Eclipse AV 5101 Source Control & Monitor = $1200
Eclipse CD Player = $450
JVC DVD Player = $300
Front MB Quart “Premier” Series Components = $450
Rear MB Quart “Premier” Series Components (Both 6.5 inch Mids) = $450
Phoenix Gold Ti 600.2 Amp = $650
Phoenix Gold Ti 500.4 Amp = $575
JL Audio 10W7 Sub with Custom Fiberglass Enclosure = $450

TOTAL = $4525.....I have a ton of custom work as well.

My Civic:

Clarion DXZ745MP = $450
JL Audio VR650-CSi (6.5") Components = $225
JL Audio TR650-CXi Coaxials = $150
JL Audio 300/4 Amp = $350
JL Audio 500/1 Amp = $550
(2) Kicker Comp VR 10's = $200

TOTAL = $1925


Give me an idea of price ranges and I'll give you some feedback on products.

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Wow...6G's!! That's a lot of money! You must be weel off! lol I think that'll be too pricey for me...at the moment that is. I'm looking to spend (at most), I'd say about one grand, for now. But, like I said before, I'm looking to purchase 4 speakers (fronts and rears), and maybe a head unit after. But like you said, I should get a head unit first...? I dunno. I'm leaning more towards getting some speakers first, and then the HU after...and most likely amps, subs, etc later on. But, who knows, I'm just a noobie at this ICE stuff! Gimme some feedback guys. Thanks.

steak84ss

You don't have to spend nearly as much as I did. Tell you what, I am about to leave work and head home. I'll do some research when I get there and I should be able to piece together 4 good speakers and a HU for a G note.

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man

PopcornPlaya

iTrader: (6)

Mine (both thing I have installed and havn't had time to switch out yet)

Current:

Pioneer Premier 740 HU
Fronts Kicker Mids, Quart Highs
No rear fill
JL 500/1 Sub Amp
IDMAX 10
JL 350/4 Comp Amp

Sitting the garage neglected waiting on me to swap out

Pioneer P8MP HU
Adire Audio Koda Mids (Fronts, still going no rear fill)
Image Dynamics NX30 Tweets
Image Dynamics Crossover
Second JL 500/1
Second IDMAX 10
75% Completed Fiberglass Amp Rack/Sub Box

Still looking for a 3.5-4" For a 3 way setup

03AzNsIlvaSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Nice ^^

Where did you guys purchase your ICE stuff??