Rep Power: 0

I have had my 04 EX sedan for 1 year but I just found this site through clubciv.

I am attaching a photo of my car so you can see it in stock form below.

But I wanted to get your suggestions on specs for a decent system for non competiition and rattle free operation.

My max budget with install is $1000!

Here is what i am thinking so far...

- Clarion DXZ745MP AM/ FM CD/ MP3/ WMA Player

- 2 pairs of Polk db6500 component speakers and tweeters

- Polk Momo 4/3/2 Channel Amp

Total is around $790 without installation.

Do you think I can do better? I also would like suggestions on a shop to install it in the NJ Area. I live near the George Washingtion bridge.

And has anyone installed speakers on the rear doors?

- Matt

 
Rep Power: 786

How about spending a little bit more nad getting a 5 channel amp and getting a small sub to go with it? You won't have any rattle with a small sub and the sound will be phenomenally better

The deck sounds pretty good, I was actually gonna buy one my self the other day but ended up with a different one instead when they didn't have the 745 in stock.

You might be able to find a decent set of speakers for cheaper than those momo's if you want to free up some money for a 5 channel amp and sub. Keep in mind if you want to go with a 5 chan you don't need the 4 chan.

You can always do better, but it will cost you thousands of dollars and lots of time, what you have picked out is fine and will provide you with plenty of entertainment.

I recommend doing the install yourself. It's easy, you will save a bit of money and have the satisfaction of doing a nice DIY install. If you need help you can always post here, there is always somebody around willing to help out. We know these cars inside and out, top to bottom and have all the install tricks so don't be afraid to ask.

The one idea I will throw out right now is that if you do get the 745MP, run an RCA cable and some type of RCA's that you can mount beside your cigarette lighter so that you can utilize the aux in without taking your dash apart. If you need more help on that we can help with that as well...

There are no speakers in the rear doors, they go on the rear deck instead

 
Rep Power: 328

What types of music do you mainly listen to? And as for killing noise, you can get 100 sq ft of fatmat (same thing as dynamat, but at a severe fraction of the cost) for $100 shipped. You might not want that much, but it's $1 a sq. ft. when you buy in that quantity. If you don't want to use that much, you can do as I did, either find someone to go in with you on it, or cut it up (comes in 2 50 sq ft rolls) in pieces the same size as dynamat and sell it at half the price of dynamat (you're still making your money back and then some).

 
Rep Power: 786

Yeah throw some under your hood, under your trunk lid and maybe on the trunk floor and sides, some on your floor, inside your doors, and behind the side panels and you'll have like no sound at all coming in

 
Rep Power: 0

I listen to mostly hip hop and r&b but I don't need deafening bass.

I was thinking of adding a small 8" Rockford Punch sub, which has a built in amp! and will alleviate me from using a 5 channel amp.

Do you guys have any suggestions on ways I can cut my costs? Maybe get a lesser head unit or lesser speakers?

I really do not want to do the install because I use my car for work and if i mess up I can't afford to take it in to get it re-installed.

Thanks for the tip on the fatmat.

I knew the speakers in the rear were in the deck. but wanted to see if anyone made a 6 speaker system by adding speakers to the doors and deck.

 
Rep Power: 328

I'd actually say to start with some expanding foam. If that doesn't suffice, then go onto the deadner mat. But I didn't feel like referencing a DIY stickied at the top.

 
Rep Power: 328

Buy online as opposed to in a shop, cuts cost by about 30% minimum.

 
Rep Power: 0

I live in NJ - go to Sounds Impossible - ask for BIll - best place I know of. They did my entire install and did a great job! Bill's a really nice guy and will help you out on price and parts. He's also an Eclipse, Zapco, DLS, and Image Dynamics dealer. He does custom sub enclosures and all - in fact he built mine. They're located in the Highlands - actually nowhere really near you but if you want to make the trip. They're about 40 minutes away from me - but I would assume you would be further since you're farther north than me. It's worth it to give them a call and see what they can do for you and how much everything would cost to install and what they might be able to help you with. It's one of the best places within 30-40 miles of me (central NJ) but you might want to get a place closer to you in case you have to go back for an issue of some sort. There's a defect in my HU so I must invoke my warranty and send mine back to Eclipse and have Eclipse send him a new one to swap for the bad one. If would be pointless to have to make a very long trip everytime you needed something or there was some type of problem.

Sound Impossible: (732) 291-8808

 
Rep Power: 346

Personally, I'd nix the rear speakers, or atleast not worry about getting components all around. Get some cheaper Coaxials for the back if you really want to upgrade the rear speakers. I just left the stock in, with most of my sound coming out of the front, i didn't feel it was necessary to spend money on the rear spealers.

If you decide to go this route, you can get a 4 channel amp, two for the front, and two more bridged for a smal sub, or, if you are going to get a powered sub, just get a much cheaper 2 channel amplifier just for the fronts.

 
Rep Power: 303

alpine head unit (100$)

kappa speakers (240$)

2 amps ($300)

1 12" sub ($170)

wire kit (100$)

other accessories ($100)


thats my system...about 1k

 
Rep Power: 348

Clarion junk

 
Rep Power: 0

how the check did Civic_racer get his alpine head unit for $100? That's some good shiiet! =D

 
Rep Power: 786

He could habe an older model piece of chit..

 
Rep Power: 0

I just built a system online at alpine1.com. Let me know what you guys think cuz its different from everyone's recommendations.

Alpine System...
Head Unit
CDA-9833 In-Dash CD Player/Ai-NET Changer Controller

Front Speakers
SPR-176A 6-1/2" Type-R Component 2-Way Speaker

Rear Speakers
SPR-174A 6-1/2" Type-R Coaxial 2-Way Speaker

Subwoofers
SWE-1241 12" Type-E Series Subwoofer (4ohm)

Subwoofer Amplifier
MRD-M301 V12 AccuClass-D™ Mono Amplifier

I can get the above uninstalled on ebay or other sites for a total of $690. With shipping i am probably looking at $790 since they are all from diff places. I guess what they are saying in the system builder is that the head unit can power the front speakers well enough?!

 
Rep Power: 303

ummm i wouldnt say that to cda-9811

 
Rep Power: 303

dont get components for the fronts if ur not gonna amp them

 
Rep Power: 310

That 9833 is one of the better head units you can get. However nothing will power the speakers like an external amp. You'll wanna find a system where you can power everything from an amp, like the 5 channel suggestion

 
Rep Power: 0

For the most part it looks good, you have the right idea.

1) Personally I'd skip the rears. For the best imaging most here don't use rear speakers.

2) As mentioned before don't bother with components if your not going to amp them. The difference between HU power and amp power is night an day different (50 HU watts does not equal 50 amp watts for sure). The HU making 50 watts is at 10% distortion (which is unlistenable IMO), while the amp making 50 watts is at 0.05% distortion. Mathematically the amp has 100x less distortion at the same 50 watts. I have an Alpine T220 in my truck for the JL XR's and its great. That would be perfect for you.

3) The sub is ok, but if you can swing the Type-R sub by all means get that one. That Alpine sub amps put out max power at 2 ohms, but only half that power at 4 ohms. So ideally you want one dual voice coil (DVC) 4 ohm sub. Wired in parallel it acts like a single 2 ohm sub.

4) The amp is cool, and it has a lot of gizmo's. The Alpine M350 actually has slightly more power and is much cheaper. It just doesn't have all the features. Do you really need a digital temperature readout ???? I know I don't, thats why I got the M350 in my truck.

Ideally heres what I'd do:
HU: CDA-9833
Fronts:SPR-176A 6-1/2"
Front Amp: MRP-T220
Sub: SWR-1241D
Sub Amp: MRP-M350

 
Rep Power: 310

With such a limited budget, you should check out the F/S section too. You'll find stuff like this,

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=172184

 
Rep Power: 310

Alright, here goes.

Alpine 9827 MP3 HU - $250
Alpine SPR-176A 6.5 Components - $225
Alpine SPS-170A 6.5 Coaxials $80
Kenwood KAC 6201 60x2@4ohm $125
Kenwood KAC 6201 150wx1 $125

176A are 50W RMS for the fronts
170A are 40W RMS for rear fill
Run the 2 channel amp at 4ohm into the front speakers, run the rear fill off the 50W HU. Total comes to about $800. Use the remaining 200 for the install and when you get a little more money, add a single 10" sub in box to the other 2 channel kenwood bridged
The prices are slightly less than retail, trust me, any shop will be willing to cut the prices slightly - the margin on car audio is like 40-60%

 
Rep Power: 786

You never said anything about CDA-9811, you just said Alpine deck for $100

 
Rep Power: 295

eclipse cd3414 - $175

Crossfire SX 6x9's -$89

Crossfire SR 6 1/2 components - $139

Crossfire VR705D 5 Channel $400

Eclipse 6123DVC 12 inch sub $125

4 ga wiring kit (there really all the same) $55

total (assuming you make the box yourself and install yourself)
$983

 
Rep Power: 310

Im pretty sure he doesn't know how or want to do the install, let alone make his own box.