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ok can you guys throw out some names of amps that have this much power? and im looking to spend $300. thanks for helping a noob.

 
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for subs or component speakers?

 
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for subs

 
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my kicker kx800.4 does at 4 ohms. was told it works but haven't tested it...

 
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why not find an amp that does 800x1 at 2 ohms... itll make your life MUCH easier

 
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i have a 4 channel that will do that for $250 plus shipping

 
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I REALLY recommend going with a monoblock amp... an amp that is actually MEANT for subs, unlike 2 and 4 channels.

If you wanna do it, at least try and do it right

 
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ok sorry guys but complete noob to this ****.........cuz im gonna hook this up to 2 subs and so how would i do this with a mooblock amp? and which one would you suggest? i mean which monoblock amp would you suggest for my 2 subs(like a 350 to 400 watt rms amp?)

 
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400 rms each or for both?

If it's for both, go with a Phoenix Gold Xenon 400.1

http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/xenonamps.html

For 400 each go with Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:1

http://www.phoenixgold.com/2004/octane-ramps.html

 
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What subs ..... that makes a world of difference. Are they 8 ohm SVC, 4 ohm SVC, 2 ohm SVC, 4 ohm DVC, 2 ohm DVC, etc. ??????

The ohms of the coils and the number of the subs that you have will determine the amp that you want.

A Monoblock 2 ohm stable amp is good for .....
- one 2 ohm SVC sub
- one 4 ohm DVC sub (parallel wiring)
- two 4 ohm SVC subs (parallel wiring)
- two 2 ohm DVC subs (parallel + series wiring)

 
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If you get the Xenon 400.1 you won't have to worry about impedance as long as you show it a 1 ohm or above load, as it will put out the same power at any resistance.

 
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How is a 2 channel amp "wrong" for subs?

The difference between a monoblock amp and a 2- or 4-channel amp is the number of channels... why do you so highly recommend only 1 channel instead of 2 or 4 for subs? What would be adversely affected by increasing the number of channels?

Or do you mean class D when you say monoblock? In which case, I can see the point if you are trying to minimize cost/heat, as a class D amp will in general give you more power for less money and less heat. There are some other advantages (better efficiency, at least when not pushed to the max; many times, the ability to handle a lower impedance), but still, I can't see how a class D amp would be "right" for subs while, say, a class A/B would be "wrong." Efficiency is not a huge deal for everyone, nor is the ability to handle a 1 ohm load...

I guess what I'm trying to say in way too many words is that I think it is extremely misleading to say that running subs off a 2- or 4-channel amp is "wrong."

 
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I'm not saying it's wrong, what I meant is that it's better to use an amp that is optimized for subs. You will get more efficiency that way and better sound.

I try to do my install to a certain "code" where everyything is set up that it would pass an inspection if it ever had to, much like your house has to be up to a certain code... and stuff like using mono blocks and putting zap straps on wire would be part of that code...

maybe I am a bit **** but that's the way I see things, but it helps me do clean install work

 
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here is the sub that i am gonna be running. so what do you think? the reason why i chose this is cuz my friend has 2 of these that he wants to get rid of cuz he wants to bump the new kicker l7's in his stang. so yea he was gonna give me this for like $80 with the box for 2 12's. and also i want 400 rms for each suhb and using only one amp.

 
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Well where are they?

 
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whoops sorry forgot the link:

http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/m...DVC/detail.asp

 
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a 2 channel isnt wrong but try gain matching a two channel amp so that your subs are phase correct and getting the same amount of power. go with a bridged 2 channel amp (800x1) or a mono amp like the members are saying.


its possible but why make things harder.

 
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i beg to differ sir

a 2 channel amp will actually produce a cleaner, more accurate signal, hence better sound.

the topology of a class D amplifier provides so much efficiency because it doesnt actually produce the entire waveform, only a part of it. thats why we dont run class d to components. it only functions with on and off, hence the sometimes used term, digital. digital information uses 1 and 0, or on and off to transmit signal.

letter A illustrates 10% power, b is 50% power, c is 90% power

even class a/b and class T amps we see on the market still dont produce the waveform entirely, they have a small piece missing in the center. this picture is a class b amplifier, im using it as a visual exagerration about the waveform distortion. class a/b use b as a design base but take a feature from class a so as to somewhat fix the evident distortion.

again, a class a/b waveform doesnt look like this, this is a class b im using for exagerrative purposes

class a amps can produce the waveform almost perfectly, but they are burdened with a 15-20% efficiency, and sucks massive power even while not putting out a signal. of the VERY few in car class A amps available, you wont find one that does more than 20 watts by 2, and those amps cost thousands of dollars. theyre also gimongous.

disregard the arrow and stuff, i stole the image from another site

The proper subwoofer, combined with the proper install, can obviously point out the difference in sound quality between a class D mono, and an a/b amp, yet i didnt reccomend a 2 channel to him, because i can obviously tell he wont know the difference.

please raise your hand if youd like to ask a question

 
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How bout' a nice Kenwood Excelon
X401M

400 watt, Powerslide monoblock.?
Hmmmmmm?

 
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Ya This topics is perfect timing. Cause I was looking for the right type of amp to run 2 JL 12W3. ANy suggestions. not trying to take over thread, just offering another scenorio. These are suppose to run 300w RMS each. When i look for an amp for 300RMS subs, do i look at 2ohms specs????? A shop told me get this $ 650 Zapco 750.2 with specs of....

Stereo, 4 ohms: 2x175 Watts

Stereo, 2 ohms: 2x375 Watts

Bridged, 4 ohms: 1x750 Watts

T.H.D. + Noise: <0.022%

S/N Ratio: >95dB

Slew Rate: >40V/uS

Damping Factor: >1000@4 ohms

Dimensions: 23"L x 7.5"W x 2"H

Is there something else that would work just as well, but less expensive? Similar situation as Mr_fobster!

 
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that zapco reference 700 amp is serious overkill for your subs. theyre trying to sell you some crazy ****. im assuming theyre dual 4 ohms subs.
youd be fine with any 500-600 watt at 1 or 4 ohm amp
jl 500/1 comes to mind if you still want a high quality amp

 
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It didn't seem right, but the JL 500/1 I've been told could work for 2 subs, right?

 
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could work for 1 sub, 2 subs, 186 subs, 3,465,934 subs
all bout wiring them correctly

 
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What comes to mind when you think of another amp a notch below JL audio?

 
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That was FUNNY!

How bout a nice Kac X401M?? I got one hardly used.

Anyway, its also important to know what exact 12w3 you got.
Is it a vers 1 or a Vers 2

Dual 2 ohm, Dual 4 ohm or Dual 6 ohm

 
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**** I was looking to buy the v2 but not sure on the ohms. What's better. the one I found was here...JL 12w3 from Woofersetc.com

 
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ok my audio guy that i usually talk to(sort of like a family friend) he says if im want to power my subs with the power that i was talking about, cuz my subs i am getting are like 400 watt rms, is a mtx thunder421D amp:

http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/pro...hunder421D.cfm

and he was gonna power it with a 2 ohm load = 420x1
any suggestions? comments would be helpful?

 
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MTX herd some good ****

 
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yeah 2 ohm would give each sub 210W. you said you wanted 400W to each. i know MTX makes a mono one that puts out 775W at 2 ohms (damn close to 400W each), but the model escapes me. 810D maybe? 81000D? 8100D? something like that...

 
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yea its the 810d, but on the 421d i showed you guys cant i power it to 420x1? cuz it shows that in the dynamic power14.4 VDC? cuz if i get that one my audio guy said he would make it so that it will be pushing out that much power? i dont get what its saying about the rms power and the dynamic power. could someone please help me out here on that? thanks!