Idea: using home stereo speakers for our rear speakers?
Idea: using home stereo speakers for our rear speakers? 
08-10-2004
#4
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It's gonna take alot more than 4-6 watts to get a speaker going at listenable levels, so the amp is going to try and put out more, and clip, and send a super distorted signal to the speaker causing it to blow.
08-10-2004
#5
ic..........
so, how many watt is it actually the OEM radio sends to the rear speakers?
which amp u'r reffering to? the "amp" inside the OEM radio?
i was thinking to directly plugs the red/black cable from the harness into the stereo speakers......lol
so, how many watt is it actually the OEM radio sends to the rear speakers?
which amp u'r reffering to? the "amp" inside the OEM radio?
i was thinking to directly plugs the red/black cable from the harness into the stereo speakers......lol
08-11-2004
#6
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Rep Power: 0 That is not a good idea, the ohms need to match up and the weather elements will damage the speaker.
Car speakers are designed to withstand extreme heat and cold, where as home speakers will fail under extreme heat and cold conditions.
Car speakers are designed to withstand extreme heat and cold, where as home speakers will fail under extreme heat and cold conditions.
08-11-2004
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Rep Power: 304 Stock speakers are 4ohm. The factory radio sends around 12 watts per channel, so at 8ohm you cut the wattage in half.
And yes, I am referring to the amp inside the factory radio.
And yes, I am referring to the amp inside the factory radio.
08-12-2004
#11
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Rep Power: 0 Think of ohms as a measure of how hard it is to move a speaker. The higher the ohms on a speaker, the harder it is to move. Some will argue that a sub w/ a higher ohms will be harder to move, and therefor can be controlled more accurately. This is called damping. So theoretically the more the ohms, the better it can sound.
Also think about the power aspect of it. In either home or the car world the voltage is kept constant (12v or 120v). Given that the only way to make lots of power is to decrease the ohms or increase the current. So in the car world where power is limited, generally most bass amps want reduced ohm loads to get lots of power (like 1 or 2 ohm stable amps). To get to 1 or 2 ohms, it generally requires subs w/ low resistances. This is why some amps pull 60, 80, even 100 amps of current.
Most home amps can run at 8 ohms and won't even get close to taking 5 amps of power. Different kinds of power available, so the approaches to all the equipment id different.
Also think about the power aspect of it. In either home or the car world the voltage is kept constant (12v or 120v). Given that the only way to make lots of power is to decrease the ohms or increase the current. So in the car world where power is limited, generally most bass amps want reduced ohm loads to get lots of power (like 1 or 2 ohm stable amps). To get to 1 or 2 ohms, it generally requires subs w/ low resistances. This is why some amps pull 60, 80, even 100 amps of current.
Most home amps can run at 8 ohms and won't even get close to taking 5 amps of power. Different kinds of power available, so the approaches to all the equipment id different.
08-14-2004
#13
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Rep Power: 0 it would work absolutely golden if done correctly sir....
none of you could do it correctly is the thing
i've used home theater oriented drivers in my car before, granted it was the raw driver stripped from any enclosure, but lets say he wanted sound, and really liked how speaker "a" sounded altogether, if he were to spoperly install that, flushing it in place, allowing proper power, then yes, he could definitely power them in car. take any old 4 channel amp that does 75x4, bridge it, use each bridged pair as a channel, theres 150 rms x 2 @ 8 ohms
some focal tweeters run at 6 ohms.
aaaaaaalso, lots of ht drivers have varying impedances throughout the frequency range, ive seen ht towers that are 8 ohms at 4 khz, and 2 ohms down at 50 hz
if he has the speakers already, likes how they sound, and is willing to put in a proper install, then i say go for it
also, so what if its 6 watts. ive seen some serious efficiency come from some ht drivers
by the way, this is the first nd probably only post ill do this month
im moving into my new place and havent hooked up the internet yet, waiting for my paycheck
none of you could do it correctly is the thing
i've used home theater oriented drivers in my car before, granted it was the raw driver stripped from any enclosure, but lets say he wanted sound, and really liked how speaker "a" sounded altogether, if he were to spoperly install that, flushing it in place, allowing proper power, then yes, he could definitely power them in car. take any old 4 channel amp that does 75x4, bridge it, use each bridged pair as a channel, theres 150 rms x 2 @ 8 ohms
some focal tweeters run at 6 ohms.
aaaaaaalso, lots of ht drivers have varying impedances throughout the frequency range, ive seen ht towers that are 8 ohms at 4 khz, and 2 ohms down at 50 hz
if he has the speakers already, likes how they sound, and is willing to put in a proper install, then i say go for it
also, so what if its 6 watts. ive seen some serious efficiency come from some ht drivers
by the way, this is the first nd probably only post ill do this month
im moving into my new place and havent hooked up the internet yet, waiting for my paycheck
08-14-2004
#14
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Rep Power: 0 I have done it, when i was 16, I am 27 now. But I had 2 technics 3 way boxes and I hooked them up to an old amplified EQ in the car, was a 79 chevette BTW. bass was loud and I had cheap 6x9s on the deck, an old turn dial 8 track setup.
08-15-2004
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Originally Posted by LudlamTheory
it would work absolutely golden if done correctly sir....
none of you could do it correctly is the thing
none of you could do it correctly is the thing
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