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I was plannin on getting the alpine mrv-f450, but i have decided not to go with it b/c: 1. sub channel don't have much power 2. i don't wnt to buy a 5ch amp and only put subs on it for now, b/c i won't have my speakers for another year. oh yeah and 3. they are hella expensive. so now i want to go with 2 alpine type r 12's and a sony 100w peak 900 watt rms x1 amp. don't just start replying with sony sucks, sony is bad, don't buy sony, blah blah blah. i searched the forums and people say the new sony amps are better than the last ones. only thing is is that the subs are rated at 300rms a piece and with this amp they would be gettin 450rms a piece. will this be ok, b/c i heard alpine underrates its power ratings? is this does work, will these things hit hella hard with 450rms a piece? i want to be heard a quarter mile away.

 
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It's 900 RMS? THen they will play loud, but not clean at all. The new SONY stuff isnt all it's cracked up to be...theres much better to be had for the same price.

 
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what other amp for $120 on ebay can make these 2 subs sound better?

 
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a sony on those alpines is like rims on a kia... why spend money on one thing if the other is such crap?

if you want loud for cheap get an L5 or L7 and put 600-800RMS to it from any old amp. if you want quality, then you never would have mentioned the sony amp.

 
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$120 amp for running two subs? i think u should save up more money, numbers themselves (such as 900rms W) aren't enough. i really doubt u can get a dependable 900rms W amp for such a low price

 
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even if we assumed that the sony was a good amp, you still have the wrong amp. that sony's gonna make its 900 watts at 2 ohms. you cant run 2 type-r's on one channel at 2 ohms. you are going to need a big 2 channel amp that will make at least 600 wrms bridged into 4 ohms, or a mono amp that is capable of running at 1 ohm.

anyway, save up some money and buy a decent amp to put on those subs.

 
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why can't i run 2 ohms with 2 type r's. they are avalable in 2=2 ohm dvc and 4=4 ohm dvc. yiu can wire it to 2 ohms. the subs are rated at 300rms max. if i run the subs at 4 ohm the amp will give it 250rms 20hz-300hz @ 0.2%thd. will this be better?

 
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you can run 2 ohms... use the DVC 2ohm sub

 
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Try a Hifonics Brutus: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18797

Run it at 1ohm....1000 watts. it's better than the SONY, but it's $100 more. Just for the love of god don't get a SONY amp.

 
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is kicker better than sony, would i be better off with a kicker kx 600.4 and bridge it to 200x2 at 4 ohm?

 
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is kicker better than sony, would i be better off with a kicker kx 600.4 and bridge it to 300x2 at 4 ohm?

 
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I'd be sceptical of Sony thats for sure.

Reviews at SoundDomain aren't that bad I guess.

With 3 - 40 amp fuses it ought to do something though ... lol.

 
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THD on the Sony seams really high .... 0.6% at rated power.

The Hifonics is 0.08% ....

Thats about 10x more distortion at rated power ....

 
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Kicker is way better IMO .... but then again I have all Kicker amps in my car ..... haha

 
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When you bridge that amp you need a 4 ohm load, you have 2 ohms so the 600.4 won't work.

You need something like a 800.2 or 500.2 ....... not in bridged, straight stereo. It will give the 2 ohm power to each sub (400 or 250 per sub).

 
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i don't have the subs yet, but if i get the 4+4 ohm dvc, will it work in bridge mode?

 
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If you want the 600.4 you have two options. You can run it in 4 channel mode or in bridged mode. Either way you want the 2+2 ohm version.

If you run it in 4-channel mode w/ every coil hooked up direct, you get 150 to each coil.

In the briged mode w/ the speakers wired in series you get 300 per speaker, basically 150 per coil.

Same difference.

 
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You can IM me too ..... lizzaarrdd .....

 
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THD not only affects how "quality" a sound is, it also affects how much power is actually going to the sub. this gets very complicated...

the amp tries to send as perfect a voltage waveform as it can to the speaker. but because the load is a varying impedence and not a straight resistance, the current waveform is anything but normal. because the 2 waveforms do not match up, the instantaneous power at any given point is NOT defined by voltage times current. the voltage is composed of an infinite number of harmonics (different frequencies), as is the current. the fact is that if you have a voltage times a current of a different harmonic, there is no power generated by multiplying the two vectors (as the product of 2 sinusoids of different frequencies is 0). THD is a measure of how much the actual waveform differs from the ideal, times 100%. if it differs a lot, then this would mean that while the voltage times current method would suggest a certain power, THIS IS NOT TRUE if you are only multiplying magnitudes. only a portion of the current flowing will actually generate AC power in the speaker.

after that boring paragraph, the point is that there is a lot more to an amp than what that little box on the webpage tells you. JL makes some of the best amps because they actually try to match the output voltage of the amp to the load being used, not making a voltage and hoping it works on any given speaker. better amps often mean a better power transfer (and hopefully a less clipped signal).