5w-30 Mobile One
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5w-30 Mobile One
So is anyone running 5w-30 syn in thier d17? The reason i ask is because both the people at the dealer where i bought it and a few other shops say to stick with the 5w-20, which sucks because there isnt much of a selection in that wieght. I live in maine so it doesnt get hot enough to use a thick oil and it can get sub zero up here in the winter, but mobile one is a great syn oil for both cold and hot, what do u think?
Also anyone know what the best aftermarket plugs are? I plan on changing them at my next oil change, 30k.
Also anyone know what the best aftermarket plugs are? I plan on changing them at my next oil change, 30k.
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I'm running Mobil 1 5W30. No problems what so ever. It runs cooler and smoother. Only con is about 1 MPG, which I can deal with.
HEFE... you can run into problems if u switch from regular oil to synthetic after 15k miles in da car. I dont wanna go into details.. but da engine will be used to da regular oil blend and switchin it to sumtin different is like changin sumtin's diet...
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uh-huhhhhh........[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG]
Oil is oil, whats soooo special about synthetic that you can't go back to regular..
I still don't get it?
Oil is oil, whats soooo special about synthetic that you can't go back to regular..
I still don't get it?
I switched to synthetic on my old car at 128K miles...no problems.
The theory behind this is: Since synthetic is more "slippery" and has smaller molecules it has a better chance of getting past the seals and being burnt.
The theory behind this is: Since synthetic is more "slippery" and has smaller molecules it has a better chance of getting past the seals and being burnt.
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ARGH...
Okay. Non synthetic oils leave micro deposits in your engine and on your valves. Over years this can build up and can account for some lost HP and blow by in the engine.
How do you avoid this? Well additives to your fuel helps, but it only delays the action, not prevents it. The only way to prevent it is to use 100% synthetic from day 1 and never switch. As soon as you switch the deposits start to build up. Also if you switch from mineral based oils to synthetic, its not going to reduce the deopsits already in there, it will just prevent more from forming.
Will it hurt your engine to switch from either? Absolutly not.
Does the loss of power warrent buying full synth for 5 years (which is where you will start seeing a difference in power)? Not if you own a daily driven non turbo/nitrous civic.
On a second note, synthetic oils work better (ie keep viscosity) at higher temps/stress, so its a good idea to use these for FI and N20 applications as well.
Okay. Non synthetic oils leave micro deposits in your engine and on your valves. Over years this can build up and can account for some lost HP and blow by in the engine.
How do you avoid this? Well additives to your fuel helps, but it only delays the action, not prevents it. The only way to prevent it is to use 100% synthetic from day 1 and never switch. As soon as you switch the deposits start to build up. Also if you switch from mineral based oils to synthetic, its not going to reduce the deopsits already in there, it will just prevent more from forming.
Will it hurt your engine to switch from either? Absolutly not.
Does the loss of power warrent buying full synth for 5 years (which is where you will start seeing a difference in power)? Not if you own a daily driven non turbo/nitrous civic.
On a second note, synthetic oils work better (ie keep viscosity) at higher temps/stress, so its a good idea to use these for FI and N20 applications as well.
So what would switching to 5w30 do?........[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/IMG] I know the manual says to use 5w20 and if you use 5w30, then switch back....but if 30 wasn't bad for it, then why would they say switch back?....
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the oils weight is determined by the enviroment you drive in. a thinner oil will be more prone to freze in sub zero temps.
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Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: JoeB16
the oils weight is determined by the enviroment you drive in. a thinner oil will be more prone to freze in sub zero temps.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: JoeB16
the oils weight is determined by the enviroment you drive in. a thinner oil will be more prone to freze in sub zero temps.[hr]
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: JoeB16
the oils weight is determined by the enviroment you drive in. a thinner oil will be more prone to freze in sub zero temps.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: JoeB16
the oils weight is determined by the enviroment you drive in. a thinner oil will be more prone to freze in sub zero temps.[hr]
However, synthetic will keep less viscous when it gets cold and flows easier. It will negate any effect from the increase in viscosity from 5W20 to 5W30 which isn't much.
Some oil analysis has found that Mobil 1 is on the "thinner" side of a 5W30 oil. While Amsoil's 5W20 is on the thicker side. The actual difference between Mobil 1 and Amsoil is less than the 5Wxx number suggests.
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